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Thread: Morris chair

  1. #1
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    Morris chair

    Moving along on the chairs, even tho pre-finishing has presented some unique problems. Working on the arms and sides and was wondering if anyone ever makes a physical connection between the 2 other than the thru mortises, which, as you can see, are not part of the assembly. Yet. What I was thinking of doing was to make a long 1/4" mortise in the top of the upper side rail and a corresponding mortise in the bottom of the arm and assembling them with glued loose tenons. I'm just kinda curious what others have done with this.

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    Last edited by Bill Carey; 09-30-2020 at 6:18 PM.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  2. #2
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    So, anyway...........

    I decided the arms did need a mechanical connection, which also serves the purpose of aligning the arm with the side assembly. Made the jig you see in the pics with some plexi and jointed poplar blocks and it'll come in handy on many more projects I think. After routing the side rails, and gluing in some loose tenons, I routed the underside of the arms to give me an 1/8" overhang on the legs. Once the arm and side were assembled, I could drill and mortise for the loose tenons thru the arms and into the legs. I couldn't do thru tenons because the legs were laid up around a core or poplar. I'll put a kerf in these tenons before I glue and drive them home so I can wedge them tight to the arms. All this so I can avoid finishing an assemble piece. LOL. And I gotta say, cutting the arc on the side assemblies after they were assembled (and of course finished) was an interesting chore. But i got to use my compass plane again, so there's that.

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    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  3. #3
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    Mar 2015
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    SE Michigan
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    Looking great, Bill. I too go through a few hurdles to pre-finish when I can...I still think it’s worth it, but can add a challenge here and there. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build.

  4. #4
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    Got a chance with the backs of these chairs to use my new Ron Bontz tenon saw. What a nice tool. Cuts easily, straight and well. A real pleasure to use. I cut the shoulders on the table saw first, then cut the cheeks with the Bontz saw. Doing this was way more fun than using the tenon jig on the table saw, and better exercise as well.

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    They are coming together well. I dry fit them together to get the numbers for the back rest width, and I was more than a little surprised that the distance between the arms at the back rest were identical to a 32nd. So surprised that I did the dry fit twice. Another serendipitous moment was when I was complaining about having to work on a moving blanket because the pieces were all pre-finished and I didn't want to scratch anything, and SWMBO suggested I cut up some of the old bathroom mats. These are great: they are soft on one side and have a rubber non slip surface on the other. A vast improvement when working with pre-finished parts.

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    Since I don't have a working lathe, I figured on using 5/8" oak dowel rods as pins, but they'll look kinda plain. Was thinking of getting some 1" or 1 1/4" dowel in contrasting wood to make caps for the pins. Dunno yet.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  5. #5
    Coming along nicely Bill!
    One of these days, I'll spring for a Bontz saw. But first, I've got a jones to buy an original Independence Tool backsaw - again, someday!
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Carey View Post
    Got a chance with the backs of these chairs to use my new Ron Bontz tenon saw. What a nice tool.

    20201010_125603.jpg 20201010_125757.jpg

    You suck.

    Nice chair, impeccable work - but still.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Matthews View Post
    You suck.

    Nice chair, impeccable work - but still.
    at least I didn't include a pic of my Bad Axe dovetail saw.

    The day the Bontz arrived I lost my job and was going to send it back, but the LOML said it was too pretty to send back and she insisted I keep it.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  8. #8
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    Jun 2017
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    Landenberg, Pa
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    Moving right along! Very nice. I’ve done three Morris chairs, I loved working on them. Nice material you have too. What is your finish regimen?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Chain View Post
    Moving right along! Very nice. I’ve done three Morris chairs, I loved working on them. Nice material you have too. What is your finish regimen?
    Thanks gents.

    William:
    I'm not a big fan of the typical dark Mission finish, so I generally do the following on all my QSWO pieces:
    Varathane Dark Walnut gel stain, sanded to 320;
    2 coats of Amber Zinnser Shellac,
    scuffed between coast with purple 3M pad,
    1 coat of 1lb dewaxed blonde shellac (Wellermart), scuffed,
    then about 6 to 10 coats of wipe on poly scuffed with purple pads between coats. Everything is put on with pads - no brushes.

    I aim for something like this, or a tad lighter.:

    20181010_170313.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  10. #10
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    Thought I deleted the dark picture. Oh well
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  11. #11
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    Jun 2017
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    Landenberg, Pa
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    Nice. I achieved that sort of color with a fuming tent chased with amber shellac. I might go back some time and hit it with a dark paste wax but for now the “customer” is happy

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Cincinnati, OH
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    Looks like you are mastering the Morris! Beautiful wood and tools and what appears to be excellent joinery. Thanks for sharing.
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  13. #13
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    Nov 2007
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    Edwardsville, IL.
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    Nice work, Bill. Thanks for the compliment as well.
    Where did you obtain your quarter sawn white oak and what is the average cost in your area?
    Thank you.
    Ron

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Bontz View Post
    Nice work, Bill. Thanks for the compliment as well.
    Where did you obtain your quarter sawn white oak and what is the average cost in your area?
    Thank you.
    Ron

    Hey Ron - I get all my wood from Cassen's Lumber in West Lafayette, IN. I usually pay about 5 bucks a bf for some of the nicest QSWO you'll ever see. Plus Dan is a hell of a nice guy. It's about a 4 hour drive for you, so if you ever decide to make the trek, let me know and I'll meet you there. Always looking for an excuse to stock up.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  15. #15
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    Jun 2017
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    Landenberg, Pa
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    $5 a BF for QSWO?? Wow, I need to move. Cheapest 'round these parts is double that.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Carey View Post
    Hey Ron - I get all my wood from Cassen's Lumber in West Lafayette, IN. I usually pay about 5 bucks a bf for some of the nicest QSWO you'll ever see. Plus Dan is a hell of a nice guy. It's about a 4 hour drive for you, so if you ever decide to make the trek, let me know and I'll meet you there. Always looking for an excuse to stock up.

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