Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: Safety options for my 'naked' PM66

  1. #1

    Safety options for my 'naked' PM66

    I have an approx. 25 year old PM66 table saw. I got it used, and it came with no safety equipment.

    I'm confused about what's available. Would a Shark Guard be best? Do I get both the blade guard and the splitter? Or the riving knife? What cuts wouldn't that work with?

    Or should I get something else?

    Would the Jess-EM stock guides work with the Shark Guard?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    2,220
    Get both a guard and a splitter/riving knife. A riving knife is better, if you can get one to fit your saw. I consider a riving knife to be a more important safety feature than even SawStop's blade brake. I've never used a Shark guard, but have heard nothing but good things about it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,627
    I have a Sharkguard on my Unisaw. It is the A.R.K. model( adjustable riving knife). This guard is really well made from quality materials and works well. The dust collection is pretty well perfect unless you shave off an edge of something. Mine has a 3'' dust connection and if I did it again I might try the 2.5'' one. It works so well that I have to leave the blast gate half closed or it sucks up thin offcuts. The riving knife has to be adjusted for height by hand ,but is the real deal other than that.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,190
    If there are children in the house, get a plug lock and use it.

    https://www.amazon.com/Brady-65674-V...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

  5. #5
    You cannot use a guard for very thin cuts since it interferes with the rip fence. You can't use either the riving knife or the guard for dado cuts. The reason the riving knife is important is it helps to prevent kickback by blocking rotation of the workpiece away from the blade. Kickback is a major cause of injuries and bad ones. I think a shark guard is a good choice.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,010
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Get both a guard and a splitter/riving knife. A riving knife is better, if you can get one to fit your saw. I consider a riving knife to be a more important safety feature than even SawStop's blade brake.
    I replaced my saw because it did not have a splitter / riving knife. Well, I could have purchased one but it was complicated to install and I would have needed to remove it to use a dado. In the interim, I used the MJ Splitter.

    I ended up with a SawStop for the blade brake, but to be clear, I replaced my saw because it did not have the riving knife.

    As Frank mentioned, you are more likely to have a kickback without using a splitter or riving knife than you are to accidentally contact the blade. The kickback, depending on how, might push your body parts into the blade (double bad). At the very least, consider the MJ Splitter until you work out how to deal with your final solution.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,031
    Shark guard sells just a splitter, or the blade guard/dust collection combined with the adjustable splitter. Iíve got two of the Arkís in my TS and am very happy with them. Honestly, I mainly got them for DC but am happy with the added safety. A said, canít be used for narrow cuts (less than 3Ē or so, because you canít push through the wood as the guard blocks it. Also has to be taken off for dados. Itís about a 5 second job to remove the guard, and another 20 seconds to remove or adjust the splitter. Very nice and well made product.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    969
    If 25 years old your PM66 should be the gold color. If so it most likely is one that came with a factory splitter. Does it have a rod sticking out the back behind the saw blade? If not is there a hole that looks like a tilted smile face? My PM66 was made in 95 and came with most, but not all the parts for the splitter. The factory splitter had a clunky blade guard that I wouldn't worry about but it also has anti kick back pawls that (are still available) I would want. If you still have the rod is there a metal bracket on it? If so you've got most of the pieces you'll need.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    893
    I have the original shark guard with splitters and love it. The guard has a dust port which is great. The splitters come in 3 sizes, small, medium and large depending on the material thickness you are cutting. Splitters come on and off really easily. The riving knife option wasn't and isnt offered for my saw, otherwise I would have upgraded to it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    52
    I put a Shark Guard on my new-to-me PM66 and love it. Dust collection is superb too. Lee ships a small stand-alone splitter to complement the regular and tall splitters that hold the Shark Guard. Installation only requires the front holding bolt and the guard comes with a ratcheting lever to fasten.
    Highly recommended.

    Regular splitter
    IMG_8711.jpg

    Shorty splitter (works with my crosscut sled too)
    IMG_8713.jpg

    Attachment
    IMG_8715.jpg

    Having never used a blade guard on any table saw, I was pleasantly surprised how well the guard works. I use a thin-strip jig for narrow rips so it doesn't cause any issue there. And I can easily swap in the shorty splitter if the guard has to come off (again, crosscut sled).

    Can't put a true riving knife on a PM66 on account of the swing of the arbor when elevating the blade.
    Last edited by Marc Fenneuff; 10-01-2020 at 2:48 PM. Reason: More info

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Wenatchee. Wa
    Posts
    327
    I have a 18 year old 66 and find that the Shark Guard splitter is the best safety device available for it. Comes in two thicknesses for different kerfs. And with effort can be dialed in to a gnats eyelash. Once the wood is beside the splitter it is much the same as a riving knife. Blade guards are nice until you work with narrow boards and theN they become for me a liability. I have the Jessem stock guides but find them a pain for one off cuts. Great saw, enjoy!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,031
    FYI, Lee passed a few years ago, but their great customer service lives on through his son Ronnie. Iíve dealt with him on a few occasions and heís excellent to work with.

  13. #13
    This thread has me remembering that I intended to buy a Shark Guard splitter setup for my naked early 90s 66 years ago, and just havenít gotten around to it. Now that Iím completely reworking my dust collection I will have (2) 4Ē drops dedicated to the 66 and could benefit from the above the blade dust collection from the Shark Guard, plus the obvious kickback safety benefits.
    Still waters run deep.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    If 25 years old your PM66 should be the gold color. If so it most likely is one that came with a factory splitter. Does it have a rod sticking out the back behind the saw blade? If not is there a hole that looks like a tilted smile face? My PM66 was made in 95 and came with most, but not all the parts for the splitter. The factory splitter had a clunky blade guard that I wouldn't worry about but it also has anti kick back pawls that (are still available) I would want. If you still have the rod is there a metal bracket on it? If so you've got most of the pieces you'll need.
    Alex, this is what is behind the blade. I don't have anything else.

    PXL_20201002_010001241.jpg

    I was hoping I could figure out the age from the serial #, but it doesn't look like it.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    20,707
    I use a guard whenever I can. Since the tablesaw is a joinery machine for me as well as a ripping and crosscutting machine I have only the riving knife about 80% of the time. Mine is a bit below the blade height and moves with the carriage so it stays on unless the guard takes its place.
    "The Danish government believes that if we train 5,000 designers, and produce
    one Hans Wegner, the money is very well spent." - Ole Gjerlov-Knudsen

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •