Blum Hinge Template Jig

[Patrick Kane]

Does anyone have experience with Blum jigs, specifically the universal template jig? I have a kitchen project coming up, and the installation of hardware has thrown me for a loop on previous smaller builds. I like Blum's hardware a lot and have zero complaints, but the installation instructions for many of their products leave me wondering if some authority should be on their way to strip me of all my degrees and send me back to grade school. Im not a cabinet maker or pro, but if this makes mounting and installing all Blum hardware effortless and perfect then it seems like it would be worth the $250 I would spend on a used set. Anyone have experience with this or similar commercial jigs?

[Tom M King]

I can't see that saving $250 worth of time for one set of cabinets. I only built one set of cabinets a year, for 33 years, for each house, and always got by fine with a fence, and large table on the drill press for hinge hole drilling, and a ever shortening piece of plywood for mounting slides in cabinet boxes (set the top ones, and rip for the ones below those, etc.

[jamil mehdi]

What hardware are you having problems with? I use the tandem slides and face frame overlay hinges regularly. I've also used the Aventos and Aventos HL hardware for appliance garages. None of it needs a jig. I'm happy to help if it's a problem with specific hardware.

[Jared Sankovich]

Not sure why you would need a jig for hinges. If the openings are square and the doors are sized to each opening its straight forward offsets for all the mounting locations.

[Patrick Kane]

I think it covers slides mostly, but also covers hinges. Haha clearly I’m not the only one that struggles with hardware mounting judging by the thread below mine.

This thing is $500-600, so I’m guessing someone at Blum thought this was an effective means of installing their products. Just curious if the real world experience matches those expectations.

[Dave Sabo]

Not sure why you would need a jig for hinges. If the openings are square and the doors are sized to each opening its straight forward offsets for all the mounting locations.

Because they never are square- either the openings or the doors. And sometimes you're retrofitting a door onto an old drawer cabinet and there are no system holes. And if you're using the mounting plates with 5mm bushings or euro screws , the 32mm spacing and vertical alignment is critical as they don't really go into holes that are "close enough" like reg. screws. Or, you're matching an old cabinet with wonky spacing to a new door. Or vice versa. This makes it easy to transfer the layout from one to the other, precisely.


Patrick, I use the jig all the time. It makes quick work of Aventos systems and Tandem slides, especially on in-situ cabinetry. Just got finished installing 7 rollout drawers in a pantry for a client. The jig was invaluable for keeping all the runners aligned on either side of the cabinet.

I can see it being useful for small batch layout of DIY cabinets too. At reg. price it's a bit of a luxury though. If I were building from scratch I'd take an hour or two and refine my 32mm system layout so that I didn't really need a jig at all. These jigs are really designed for field use.

If you can find a complete set of 4 laterals, connector, and the bits for 250 -run and give them your money.

[Jared Sankovich]

We are talking new here not retrofit. And I'd hope the doors and openings are square or damn close.

I was talking about drilling the cabinets for the hige plates. I assume everyone has a hinge machine/attachment/jig for drilling the doors.

Assuming inset, bore the cup centers 2.5(or whatever) off the ends and using a scrap of hardboard and a vix bit drill the plate centere 2.5 (or whatever) + the reveal. Overlay are the same but + the overlay. Takes 30 seconds a cabinet.

[Dave Sabo]

We are talking new here not retrofit. And I'd hope the doors and openings are square or damn close.

I was talking about drilling the cabinets for the hige plates. I assume everyone has a hinge machine/attachment/jig for drilling the doors.

Assuming inset, bore the cup centers 2.5(or whatever) off the ends and using a scrap of hardboard and a vix bit drill the plate centere 2.5 (or whatever) + the reveal. Overlay are the same but + the overlay. Takes 30 seconds a cabinet.

You're probably correct. But then again, maybe not.

Patrick hints that it's a new build, but doesn't exactly say so. He could be painting an existing kitchen and getting new doors, or even re-using the old ones but upgrading to concealed hinges. It's also just as likely he doesn't have a hinge boring machine or jig for that either.

Euro Limited makes a good entry level, but still professional grade borer.
Blum's ecodrill is first rate but double the cost.
Hettich's is the best in my view , priced in between.

Kreg has recently come out with an inexpensive jig that I haven't used, but assume works fine for non production work.

[Jared Sankovich]

You're probably correct. But then again, maybe not.

Patrick hints that it's a new build, but doesn't exactly say so. He could be painting an existing kitchen and getting new doors, or even re-using the old ones but upgrading to concealed hinges. It's also just as likely he doesn't have a hinge boring machine or jig for that either.

Euro Limited makes a good entry level, but still professional grade borer.
Blum's ecodrill is first rate but double the cost.
Hettich's is the best in my view , priced in between.

Kreg has recently come out with an inexpensive jig that I haven't used, but assume works fine for non production work.

The kreg sure looks flimsy, though i assuming works well enough and is relatively cheap.

I have the cmt boring head version on shelf some where. Its intended to mount in a drill press and works like a poor man's mini press. It bores and drills in one pass. Ive never bothered to use it since I have a couple pneumatic borers, but it seems well built.

[Patrick Kane]

I ended up buying it based solely on Dave’s response. Please don’t lead me astray, Dave! Just kidding. I looked at it this way: 1)Either it helps me a ton, because cabinets aren’t my thing, 2)it’s not that valuable and I resell for $250 or at a slight loss. It is the arm
And the four laterals. I think it only has the 5mm bit with the stop collar, so I might need to buy the other bits you mentioned.

I actually don’t have a hinge borer. I don’t have a hinge boring jig either. It looks like this jig will line up the mounting holes for the concealed cup hinges, and give you the center point for the cup. After that you have to manually drill out the mortise for the hinge. I’ve only installed hinge hardware a dozen times, but I remember it being somewhat time consuming with layout/marking before going to the drill press. I was probably doing it inefficiently, but this hinge/slide jig seems like it’s dead simple to use—for dummies like me—and leads to everything being dead nuts on.

Two near future projects actually. One is a new build where this might not be as critical. The other are replacing the doors, drawers, and hardware on my mom’s kitchen. She doesn’t want to rip out the lowers because she loves the original stainless steel countertop from the late 40s that my grand parents put in. I’m guessing this jig will be worth it’s weight in gold on that build.

This is completely off topic, but you two debating minutia leads me to ask it. Is there a good resource for a pro building cabinets using contemporary methods? I’m not talking about norm making some red oak kitchen set in the 90s. I’d love to watch a guy from start to finish using a well-equipped non-cnc shop.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Find up a copy of Danny Proulx's book "Baking Your Own Kitchen Cabinets." His simple method blows everything else out of the water! Sure changed how I built cabinets.

[Dave Sabo]

I ended up buying it based solely on Dave’s response. Please don’t lead me astray, Dave! Just kidding. I looked at it this way: 1)Either it helps me a ton, because cabinets aren’t my thing, 2)it’s not that valuable and I resell for $250 or at a slight loss. It is the arm
And the four laterals. I think it only has the 5mm bit with the stop collar, so I might need to buy the other bits you mentioned.

pressure is on me now. Guess I'll have to take the jig off your hands if it doesn't work out, or you just don't like it. There is a 2.5mm ? with 5mm stop collar for it also, and maybe a center pin- can't remember if that comes with this jig or another.

This jig will only transfer the hinge centerline from cabinet plates to the door or vice versa. Does nothing for the cup layout on the door itself. With the amount of doors you've got , I'd strongly consider one of the portable boring jigs. The Blum and Euro can be modified for dust collection which is a big help. Kreg doesn't have indexing stops so I'd pass on that one even though it's cheap.


More than you'll ever want or need on 32mm: ( Danny's book is a good primer too )

https://davelers.com/32mm/Systems/3872.html

https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_ba...s32_041204.pdf

[Jared Sankovich]

Can't help with any resources. I think everyone does it slightly differently anyway.

I will say that you should at least check the local used market for a hinge borer before buying a jig. I paid less than the cost of a hettich jig for my two pneumatic borers combined (and one included a 7 spindle head).

[Dave Sabo]

If you got a working single phase boring machine for $100- $125 than you you should do a happy dance, buy a lottery ticket, and thank your lucky stars.

That is some kind of find and Patrick should not count on finding such a deal . Although, Blum used to give them away if you ordered enough hinges.

Plus, they aren't very portable. Indispensable if you have a shop and build door on a regular basis. Two projects in the next 12 mo. hardly warrants the space or expense for most guys.

[Jared Sankovich]

If you got a working single phase boring machine for $100- $125 than you you should do a happy dance, buy a lottery ticket, and thank your lucky stars.

That is some kind of find and Patrick should not count on finding such a deal . Although, Blum used to give them away if you ordered enough hinges.

Plus, they aren't very portable. Indispensable if you have a shop and build door on a regular basis. Two projects in the next 12 mo. hardly warrants the space or expense for most guys.

I actually got 2 for $100 each. I'll admit it was a good price. Though one is a hettich with hettich pattern head. But I've passed up a few more local machines in the $300 to $400 just in the last year.