Homemade track versus buying a track saw

[Ken Kortge]

The Eurekazone version is also modular, so I need 52" of shelf space but have 8 feet of capacity.

I prefer using the 64" track for cutting half sheets, so I prefer a 64" + 52" combo. It provides a nicer "launch pad" for the saw.

I unsuccessfully searched online for a picture of the 8 foot cut length of the one-layer track brands (Festool, ...). I assume it has quite a bit of flex. I wondered how fragile it is.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

As always - there is a lot of good advice from all of you!

@Ken Kortge - I like the looks of that Eurekazone EZSmart track and saw base. It looks like a bit better version of the Kreg and similar to the TrueTrac but the base seems to have more features. I've looked at the Kreg setup and the saw base doesn't look like a good design but the idea of mounting it to your existing saw is nice.

[roger wiegand]

I've made and used a couple different versions of home made track saws over the decades. They shared the properties of being inconvenient to set up and use and produced results no better than clamping a board as a guide to the piece to be cut.

Unlike others here, I found the transition to a "real" track saw to be transformative to my process in the shop. (In my case the Festool). Being able to simply lay the track exactly on the line I want to cut, having it not move, and getting an excellent finish cut the first time made sheet goods really useable again for me.

Could I have engineered and built those propertied into one of my home made tracks? Perhaps, though almost certainly not with the great dust collection. However, I'd rather be doing woodworking than designing and refining saws. For me the $600 (or whatever it was, I've long forgotten) was one of the better investments I've ever made; I resisted for a long time, thinking it was silly and I already had something that worked, but I was wrong and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

[Jay Kepley]

I have a Makita corded track saw and three of its tracks (36", 55", and the long track). I use my track saw frequently. I believe it's a great investment. It's very accurate. The Makita blade is exceptional. I just replaced mine after a couple of years. I don't believe the cost of the blade warrants a sharpening charge (which makes the blade disposable). The tracks are aluminum; therefore, they are lightweight. They are straight, and they don't warp. We all face the "make or buy" decision on stuff for the shop. I'm glad I invested in the tracks.

[Roger Feeley]

One thing you might want to be aware of is that you can get saws with the motor on the left or right side of the blade. If I recall correctly, most of these saws have the motor on the left side. This works great for a right hander cutting a 2x4. You hold the board with your left hand and the saw with your right. The motor on the left means that the saw doesn't want to tip to the right as you finish the cut. If you are left handed, it gets awkward unless you buy a saw with the motor on the right.

When I made my home brew guides, I found that it all worked out better with a saw with the motor on the right.

So what's important here is that you know that you can choose which side the motor is on.

[Jim Dwight]

I don't consider my DeWalt track fragile but I treat them like the fairly expensive tool they are. I think you'd have to mis handle them fairly severely to cause damage. I store them on edge on my garage door, that is their strong direction. Laid flat they could be deflected or even bent if you applied significant weight with the track unsupported. But used even close to correctly, no issue. My verdict is sturdy enough. The more typical one sided tracks are probably more resistant of loading while flat due to two rib like projections.

[Bill Space]

I have a relatively cheep Grizzly track saw. I bought it on sale to try a track saw out. It is really nice being able to put the track on the mark and make the cut without having to worry about blade offset with a guide using a standard circular saw.

That being said, the track saw is powered by AC power, and requires an extension cord. It is relatively heavy and bulky compared to my Dewalt 20 volt max circular saw. For one or two cuts, I actually prefer just using a simple guide with the battery saw. Actually quicker, but I suppose not as accurate as the tracksaw would be, but not bad either...

[Mike Henderson]

I have the Festool track saw and it is ACCURATE. I used to rip my sheet goods close and then finish on my cabinet saw. With the track saw I cut exactly where I want to - and the cut is clean.

Mike

[Larry Frank]

I have had several different ones over many years. I started with a straight piece of plywood, then an aluminum straight edge and finally my Festool track saw. Yes, it is not cheap but a pleasure to use. It is very accurate and gives clean cuts.

[Curt Harms]

Adding to the previous list, dedicated track saws have the saw indexed to the track so you can't move it laterally during the cut. A home-made solution normally is just a guide that will allow you to come off the line if you are not very careful.

This is why I made my saw guide to use with a P-C 314 trim saw (Good luck finding a new one of those!) Unlike 'sidewinder' circular saw bases that are wider than they are long, The 314 base is quite a bit longer than it is wide. To illustrate the difference cut a 4" X 8" piece of scrap then retract the blade of a table saw. Put the 4" side of the piece against the fence and push it. Then put the 8" side against the fence and push it. Which is easier to keep tight against the fence? The 8" side of course. I find it quite easy to keep the P-C trim saw base against a fence. Of course having the blade parallel to the base is critical where there's not a rib to force the saw to track straight. If I made a lot of cuts using a guided saw I might spring for a track saw. If I make a dozen cuts using a saw board (one name for it) per year it's a lot.

[Daniel O'Neill]

I have been looking at this setup doing some dadoes for a closet organizer and to maybe later use it for a track saw. The straight edge has a t track on both sides but would still be "butt in the air" for the plunge cuts. I didn't buy it at this time because my sander isn't working right and I might need to buy one of those.

Bora Straight Edge
Bora Circ saw plate
Bora Router Plate

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks to all for the great feedback.
The Eurekazone looks like a really good choice. I can't make out about the quality of it since it doesn't seem to have been readily accepted by woodworkers. But it sure looks like a good option.

The one thing I've noticed looking at the cost of these is that in this category Festool doesn't actually appear to be that much more than other options. It actually is cheaper than some of the ones I've looked up. Maybe I'm not comparing the right items as this is quite unusual.

That being said - I am considering buying one of the Festools. I was quite shocked after all these years of not having an impact driver while being amazed at the offerings and popularity while I thought my drill did all it did. I bought an impact driver and it is one of my favorite tools - granted it is side by side with my drill but definitely the best tool for driving screws and even some drilling. I'm getting the impression a track saw will be same type tool addition. Maybe not a replacement for my table saw or circular saw but a welcomed addition. Crossing my fingers!

I'm now trying to decide which Festool - I'd love any advice - or if anyone has another brand they'd like to boast about.

[Jim Becker]

I'm now trying to decide which Festool - I'd love any advice -

Keep in mind that in recent years, Festool added some track saws that are designed specifically for the construction trade including "captive" tracks. Most of us who use track saws primarily for woodworking purposes opt for the more traditional track saw which is aimed at precision cuts in sheet goods and other materials. So choose the format of track saw that best fits your intended use. While there certainly is crossover, these two types of saw are optimized for for two different kinds of work "in general". There are also two sizes of track saw in the "woodworking" variant. The smaller/lighter one is what most folks use since its depth of cut it more than sufficient for sheet goods and most solid stock. Someone wanting to cut thicker slabs more frequently will want the larger saw.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks Jim! Large sheet plywood cutting and then 3/4"-1" hardwood glued up panels would be the second use. I think this falls into the lighter "woodworker" versions.

My other dilemma is if I would buy a cordless version. It looks like Festool and Makita both have a strong option for cordless track saws. My battery platform that I'm very happy with is Ryobi. Obviously, this isn't an option for track saws and Ryobi would likely never offer the quality I'd look for in a track saw. I'm good with picking another battery platform.

Are the cordless track saws as good as the corded versions for the lighter "woodworker" versions?

[roger wiegand]

One hint, plan on buying at least one extra blade with the Festool. The plywood blade it comes with is great (extraordinarily clean cut) for ply, but it bogs down horribly in thicker or more dense stock (eg SPF 2x lumber, or even 4/4 maple). A blade with a lower tooth count fixes that instantly.