Homemade track versus buying a track saw

[johnny means]

Before I'd ever heard of a tracksaw, I used a shop built masonite track and a cheap circular saw. I'd put my results with that setup up against my Festool saws any day. The only thing I really gained was a bit of convenience. Mind you, I had a Format saw to make the track. I wouldn't choose buying a tracksaw if my tool collection was wanting in other areas. $600 in clamps or finishing equipment has yielded me a greater ROI than that tracksaw ever could.

[Ken Kortge]

I wouldn't choose buying a tracksaw if my tool collection was wanting in other areas. $600 in clamps or finishing equipment has yielded me a greater ROI than that tracksaw ever could.

If you already have a decent circular saw, the Eurekazone.com system can get you a 64" track with a conversion base, two anti-chip edges, and two clamps for $155 (plus shipping).

You can get a similar package with both 64" and 54" tracks, plus connectors, for $273 (plus shipping).

As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, the tracks are unique in that their dovetail-like channels are self-aligning (auto-straightening) when using the connectors.

This YouTube video gives an overview of the tracks https://youtu.be/-i3df2FfDgw

[Roger Feeley]

One thing you might want to be aware of is that you can get saws with the motor on the left or right side of the blade. If I recall correctly, most of these saws have the motor on the left side. This works great for a right hander cutting a 2x4. You hold the board with your left hand and the saw with your right. The motor on the left means that the saw doesn't want to tip to the right as you finish the cut. If you are left handed, it gets awkward unless you buy a saw with the motor on the right.

When I made my home brew guides, I found that it all worked out better with a saw with the motor on the right.

So what's important here is that you know that you can choose which side the motor is on.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

It appears the reviews claim the cordless versions of the Makita and Festool are as good as the corded tools (this is just from internet searches/reviews - I don't know first hand).

My thought on why the cordless is if I'm going to pay $600-$1000 for a complete system then I may as well get the extra convenience of a cordless unit as well. It appears to cost ~$100 more for the Makita. The Festool looks to be ~$200 more (TSC model).

I can't justify cost of a cordless unit. I'm a hobbyist woodworker. Heck I can't really justify the cost of a lot of my tools. My only justification is I like it and in the end it is cheaper than buying furniture/cabinets or paying others for various home improvements, etc.

[Jim Becker]

I was just curious and absolutely, in the end, the consideration isn't always financial...it's "what I want". Which is a very valid reason!

[Eric Arnsdorff]

As luck would have it we’re putting in new flooring upstairs and will likely be doing more downstairs and the main level in months to come.
My wife brought up getting a smaller cordless miter saw (I have the 12” Bosch glider and love it but it’s huge). I explained to her how a cordless track saw would be perfect with good dust collection and portability. I’m hoping using it as a miter saw for wood flooring will work as good as I told her. But she’s now all about getting it!

Another “tool want” justified!!

Somebody please back me up and tell me it will work great for a miter saw?!?!

[Jim Becker]

If you do opr to use it as an alternative to a miter/chop saw, be sure you get a short track (Makita has one) and have a table support and fence setup so you can index the track and flooring to be perpendicular without constantly measuring. I've used my Festool track saw with the MFT table for home improvement stuff like this in lieu of my miter saw a number of times. (My miter saw is relegated to the upstairs lumber storage area of my shop...I don't use it for projects most of the time)

[mike stenson]

Having a hose for dust collection pretty much negates the flexibility of a cordless tool. ie, it's still 'corded'.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks Jim! I looked up some videos of people using the track saw to make cross cuts and I think that's a great portable solution. A simple easy to make jig and it should work perfect.

Very true Zac! I am purchasing it today/tomorrow (if I can get it in town) or ordering it if not.

Mike the dust collector tether does take a little away from "cordless". However, I have a battery powered vacuum that works well and I think it does offer a terrific "cordless" solution for doing the projects away from my shop. Also, having it connected to my dust collector while in my shop does add a "cord" or hose as it is but still is one less tether to deal with. So it's worth the cordless solution to me. Additionally, when I use it outside it won't have any tethers. Further - I saw Festool's bag option seems to work well.

I hope all this is true and I'm now completely on the opposite end of a DIY/Homemade solution. Even though that solution does appear to be a valid and semi-efficient choice as well.

Thanks for all the help. I always over analyze these purchases but it's my hobby and I enjoy purchasing new tools as well as using them. The thing I hate the worst is buying or making something to find out it was the wrong thing. That's part of learning but some research and good advice helps avoid this.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks Jim! Large sheet plywood cutting and then 3/4"-1" hardwood glued up panels would be the second use. I think this falls into the lighter "woodworker" versions.

My other dilemma is if I would buy a cordless version. It looks like Festool and Makita both have a strong option for cordless track saws. My battery platform that I'm very happy with is Ryobi. Obviously, this isn't an option for track saws and Ryobi would likely never offer the quality I'd look for in a track saw. I'm good with picking another battery platform.

Are the cordless track saws as good as the corded versions for the lighter "woodworker" versions?

[roger wiegand]

One hint, plan on buying at least one extra blade with the Festool. The plywood blade it comes with is great (extraordinarily clean cut) for ply, but it bogs down horribly in thicker or more dense stock (eg SPF 2x lumber, or even 4/4 maple). A blade with a lower tooth count fixes that instantly.