Piping new-to-me DC

[Anthony Whitesell]

Anthony, have you investigated not putting the fan on top of the cyclone but instead have some sort of ducting from the cyclone outlet to the side of the cyclone and put the blower and filters beside the cyclone? A straight shot from the cyclone outlet to the fan is optimum but I wonder if there's a way to have a rectangular duct on top of the cyclone transitioning to round for the blower inlet without too much suction loss. I guess there's not, I doubt I'm the first to have thought of this.

Yes, I have. The height of the motor and blower is equal to the take-out of the 8" elbow. So there is no height reduction. The upside is I don't need any extra space for motor cooling. I gain about 4-5".

I have a 2 h.p. DC much like the Grizzly and use 6" PVC pipe. The PVC fit snug enough over the DC inlet that duct tape was adequate to seal it. I have a Thien baffle built into the DC, I didn't want to extra hose with its attendant pressure loss and space of a separate collector. If I empty the bag when it's about half full I don't find it a difficult task.

"The PVC fit" Is that PVC pipe or PVC fitting? If it is PVC pipe, is it SCH40 thick wall or the thin wall SDR?
?

[Tom Bender]

So you want to reduce the ID of the PVC by 5/8".

Cut a piece 2" long and cut a short section out of it. Squeeze this into the end of your PVC pipe to reduce it. If it's now too small enlarge it on the lathe or with a router or rasp. Probably want to do that on a longer piece. You may end up making 2 or 3 before you get it just right. You can taper the inside end for better flow.

[Bill Dufour]

Tom, I used that method to reduce from 6" to 5" at the cyclone. I took a piece of 6" about 18" long and did the math to cut a wedge out that tapered from nothing to the difference in circumference at the small end. Was that 3.14157" I took out? 15 years latter it still has three hose clamps since I do not trust the glue up.
Bil lD

[Anthony Whitesell]

A good example of your DC converted to a cyclone is Unemployed Hillbilly Redneck Creations on Youtube . A great source for a filter is Air Cleaning Specialists ( Chris Peanick / sales ) . Mine is 13" x 34" 282 sq. ft. sur. area , $94 . Wynn Envir. isn't the only option out there . Good luck with whatever you choose .

I do not need to convert the Grizzly to a cyclone. I have an Oneia cyclone system in boxes already. I have not yet figure out how to set up the Jolly Green Giant in Papa Smurfs short house.

[james manutes]

Anthony , my bad . I thought your dilemma was to use that cyclone body - probably a Dust deputy . I see what you mean now .

[Curt Harms]

Yes, I have. The height of the motor and blower is equal to the take-out of the 8" elbow. So there is no height reduction. The upside is I don't need any extra space for motor cooling. I gain about 4-5".


"The PVC fit" Is that PVC pipe or PVC fitting? If it is PVC pipe, is it SCH40 thick wall or the thin wall SDR?
?

The pipe itself fits on the DC inlet. I'm not real sure about the pipe, I'm pretty sure it's not SCH40 but it's also not real thin wall like some 4" S&D that I have. I kinda thought all PVC pipe was the same I.D., the O.D. varies but I could be mistaken in this.

[Anthony Whitesell]

My blower w/ a Dust Deputy XL is 56" from the top of the motor to the bottom of the Dust Deputy . I've got 3' 6" for bin and discharge flex hose . Sounds like you've got a full size cyclone body on the scale of Clear Vue or a Onieda machine . I can see why you would use a trash can system for now . That 2 HP Grizzly wouldn't work well on a cyclone that size .

Anthony , my bad . I thought your dilemma was to use that cyclone body - probably a Dust deputy . I see what you mean now .

The cyclone is the previous generation C950 (with 12" diameter hard flange for the box connection) with a 2HP Marathon motor and 13" impeller.

[Tom Bender]

Not suggesting making a tapered piece of PVC, though that can work. My suggestion was to slip a 2" long piece inside the too large pipe to reduce the ID.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I got to us the new-to-me DC with the 4" duct work and the trash can separator. Separation is good, with enough airflow the can doesn't clog when it gets full (LOL). My can is now full to the baffle.

4" duct work I learned long ago (I've been on SMC for 13 years) should be outlawed and illegal to sell, classified as a scam. I need to figure if I should go with 5" metal or 6" PVC.

I thinking PVC because it is more 'machinable' and
1. I want to make my own blast gates
2. I want to automate the blast gates to get them out of the way and where I couldn't reach them (I already have one I can barely reach)
3. I like the look of the fazlok twist and lock hose coupling and would like to make my own. I have only found them in 4" and appear to be made of, weak, acrylic plastic.

I noticed at Woodcraft today some 5" ABS plastic fitings. Is there such a thing as 5" PVC?

[Ryan Yeaglin]

Clear view makes tube to pipe adapters, the shipping is stupid though. Better yet, call your local trade school that has a sheetmetal shop. Get a 6"x 6 5/8" round to round reducer made 10" long with 2" long collars. Should be pretty cheap if they get a student to make it. Or a local sheetmetal shop.

[Steven Cooper2]

Do you have a 3d printer or a desire to have one? I have one I have probably printed out hundreds of dollars worth of random dust collection fittings and adapters, more than paying for the printer by this point I'm sure.

I just printed up a couple 6" fittings for maybe $5 each. Probably not great for water, but good enough for dust.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Do you have a 3d printer or a desire to have one? I have one I have probably printed out hundreds of dollars worth of random dust collection fittings and adapters, more than paying for the printer by this point I'm sure.
I just printed up a couple 6" fittings for maybe $5 each. Probably not great for water, but good enough for dust.

Interesting thought. I'm not sure 3D printing 5" pipe is the way to go.

[Charlie Jones]

Anthony, When I installed my Clear Vue system, I used 6” PVE sewer and drain pipe. I made some y’s and adapters by heating the pipe until it was pliable. I cut openings and fitted the pipe together and sealed it with duct mastic. By the time I finished, I had got quite good at it. You could easily make your adapter this way. Just run a propane torch around the pipe, staying far enough away to not set it on fire. At some point it will be soft enough to do what you need with gloves.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I got to us the new-to-me DC with the 4" duct work and the trash can separator. Separation is good, with enough airflow the can doesn't clog when it gets full (LOL). My can is now full to the baffle.

4" duct work I learned long ago (I've been on SMC for 13 years) should be outlawed and illegal to sell, classified as a scam. I need to figure if I should go with 5" metal or 6" PVC.

I thinking PVC because it is more 'machinable' and
1. I want to make my own blast gates
2. I want to automate the blast gates to get them out of the way and where I couldn't reach them (I already have one I can barely reach)
3. I like the look of the fazlok twist and lock hose coupling and would like to make my own. I have only found them in 4" and appear to be made of, weak, acrylic plastic.

I noticed at Woodcraft today some 5" ABS plastic fitings. Is there such a thing as 5" PVC?

[Steven Cooper2]

Interesting thought. I'm not sure 3D printing 5" pipe is the way to go.

Well, not the pipe, but it seems that there are always things that are closeish or you need some not quite right adapter, flange etc that doesn't seem to be available. I'm quite happy with the integrity of my 6" printed fittings, though I have not tried anything larger than that...