UnSpoiling the Spoil Board Afternoon

[richard newman]

I'm curious, when you glue down the new spoil board, are you using water base glue? I wondering whether there would be any movement as the the added moisture finally dries out? I know this sounds a bit obsessive, but we're talking accuracy, so...

I'm a big fan of epoxy when movement in a laminated jig or fixture is undesireable

[David Falkner]

I have a piece of 3/4" MDF on the bed of the machine and a piece of 1/2" MDF for a spoilboard. The 1/2" piece is screwed to the 3/4" piece with nylon screws in the event I accidentally hit one, no glue whatsoever. In 4 years I've not a single issue with anything coming loose using this method.

David

[Jim Becker]

Richard, I used Titebond II since I was gluing the MDF to...MDF. Using epoxy to put down something slightly larger than half a full sheet of material (in my particular machine's case) would have been a not-fun task. Any small moisture effect from the TB-II would be very short term and taken care of once I milled everything flat after it fully cured. It was not gobbed on super thick, either.
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David, my factory MDF table is 1" thick MDF plus it has another .25" layer surrounding the tee tracks that I added a little more "meat" under to better support the screws. My spoilboard on top of that starts out at .75". I had given some thought about holding it down with nylon bolts but I use a lot of screws for material hold-down and having an uninterrupted surface (other than the .375" wide slots for the tee tracks used with clamps) works better for me. There are so many different ways to do this stuff.

[Jerome Stanek]

I have a 25mm sheet of Komatex screwed to a 3/4" sheet of ply. I cut my plenum in the Komatex and used Titebond III to glue my 3/4 Trupan down.