I have a couple of turned pieces that are waxed and am wondering if I could apply a coat of oil based poly and obtain a proper bond. Or does the wax have to be removed and if so how?
I have a couple of turned pieces that are waxed and am wondering if I could apply a coat of oil based poly and obtain a proper bond. Or does the wax have to be removed and if so how?
I can not think of any finish that can go over wax.
Some Blue Tools
Some Yellow Tools
A Grizzly Collection
ShapeokoXL
Blue and White 50 Watt
Wax is an issue and even double so for anything with polyurethane resin which doesn't even like to stick to itself. You need to thoroughly remove the wax and a barrier coat of wax free shellac before the oil based "poly" or varnish is a good idea. You can use the spray-bomb Zinsser product for convenience...it's great for small jobs like a turning. You do not want a thick coating...thin is best for shellac.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
i made the mistake of applying a friction polish to a turned vase and then applying epoxy. I knew that the friction polish had a wax base, but thought that since it had been burnished, the epoxy would adhere. I was wrong. Even while rotating slowly on the lathe, the epoxy looked like lines where it ran and would not adhere. Had to scrape it off, re-sand and start over. Lesson learned!
My Dad always told me "Can't Never Could".
SWE
The times I've removed friction polish or just wax I used multiple solvents then sanded, then repeated.
Some solvents for different waxes: denatured ethanol or isopropyl alcohol (for the shellac), turpentine (great for beeswax), acetone, naphtha, mineral spirits, ethyl acetate, xylene.
JKJ
Suddenly I think the wax finish is just gear! Thanks for the help.
This one is maple with nothing but Renaissance wax:
bud_vase_comp_IMG_8238.jpg
I sometimes use nothing but beeswax on Eastern Red Cedar:
cedar_bowl.jpg cedar_lid_comp_IMG_7331.jpg penta_plates_comp_cropped.jpg
JKJ
Wax should be removed first....Sorry
Jerry