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Thread: Need advice on knock down hardware for dining table

  1. #1

    Question Need advice on knock down hardware for dining table

    Hello all and Happy Holidays! I am building a dining table extension to match my existing table. The top will be 34" wide x 60" long. The base will be 4" wide aprons connected to four square post legs. The aprons will be inset from the top by 2". The legs are 2.75" square. I plan to connect the aprons to the legs with dominos for positioning but no glue so the base can be disassembled for storage. I'm looking for advice on what type of knock down hardware I can use to secure the aprons to the legs, and the top to the aprons. For the legs I was thinking of bed rail fasteners, but most are too large. Lots of other choices but I have no prior experience in knock down design, so all suggestions welcome!

    Thanks,

    Len

  2. #2
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    Why not use Domino connectors? They are excellent, well designed and easy to set up for. Sedge just posted a video this week on the 'Tube that details how to use them.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Could you glue a block on the legs inside behind the apron, drill two through holes and put threaded inserts in the back side of the aprons. You would never see the blocks or inserts when the table is assembled. Brian
    Brian

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Why not use Domino connectors? They are excellent, well designed and easy to set up for. Sedge just posted a video this week on the 'Tube that details how to use them.
    Thanks Jim. I saw the connectors when they first came out but forgot about them. Just watched the Sedge video and a few others, they claim it is simple but seems confusing. Also, I have a DF 700 but the connectors are too large for 3/4" pieces. I do have an 8mm bit for the 700, could I use that bit and the DF 500 connector set?

    Len

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    Could you glue a block on the legs inside behind the apron, drill two through holes and put threaded inserts in the back side of the aprons. You would never see the blocks or inserts when the table is assembled. Brian
    Thanks Brian, that, or a variation of it, might work.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len Rosenberg View Post
    Thanks Jim. I saw the connectors when they first came out but forgot about them. Just watched the Sedge video and a few others, they claim it is simple but seems confusing. Also, I have a DF 700 but the connectors are too large for 3/4" pieces. I do have an 8mm bit for the 700, could I use that bit and the DF 500 connector set?

    Len
    You can, I believe, use the DF700 and an 8mm cutter to use the smaller connectors. You just have to pay attention to depth of cut and location...it's all about the numbers. The smaller machine is easier to handle for this, but an 8mm mortise is an 8mm mortise. If you had them in your hand along with the written instructions, I think that you'd find them not as confusing, too. I actually have used the 14mm connectors with my DF700 in a TwinXL over Queen bunkbed project a few years ago and now plan on getting the 8mm version. (Although I just acquired a DF500 from Greg Parish in the SMC classifieds so I'd use that for the smaller connectors)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Install a corner block (45 degees) between the corners of the aprons. Create a small flat on the inside of the legs, then drill thru corner blocks into legs. and install hanger bolts with nuts to hold legs in place. Do some searching and you can find metal corner brackets that you just need to cut a couple slots in aprons at corners. Search "Metal corner brackets for table legs," for lots of choices. This is how commercial lab tables, and school tables have been made for centuries, and they ship in the flat. You can pocket screw the aprons to the top for further flat storage.
    Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 12-26-2023 at 8:28 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Why not use Domino connectors? They are excellent, well designed and easy to set up for. Sedge just posted a video this week on the 'Tube that details how to use them.
    That is a cool system and useful for professional shops, but like everything Domino, they like it real well in terms of price for the kit. Not sure I could sell it to the book keeper in my household. Brian
    Brian

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    That is a cool system and useful for professional shops, but like everything Domino, they like it real well in terms of price for the kit. Not sure I could sell it to the book keeper in my household. Brian
    Remember that a Domino is only a HIGH PRICED slot mortiser. Lots of videos on how to make your own. Currently awaiting a router from TEMU to do such. Don't really need it, just want to build it. Another useless gadget to clutter my shop, and for my kids to sell at the final yard sale for a buck.

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