Help - Power Switch For My Bandsaw

[Dennis Peacock]

I have a Laguna 16 bandsaw that I purchased new in 1999. The switch has stopped working for the on/off part of it. The power to the bandsaw is always ON and the only way to turn it on/off is via the power cable at the wall outlet. I took it all apart and found that the broken part is a 220V contactor. I was wondering if any of you may know where I can get a replacement contactor.

Omron - J7K-AMA-10 is the part number for the contactor.

I am finding everything BUT this specific contactor part.
bs_switch_contactor.jpg

[Mike Kreinhop]

Here is the datasheet from an Australian distributor:

https://www.edata.omron.com.au/eData/LVSG/J502E2-01.pdf

Here's a stocking vendor in Sweden that will ship internationally, but it doesn't specify the coil.

https://www.plcsweden.com/en/art/omr...0-j7kama10.php

At €29 each, it might be better to buy two and keep one as a spare.

There doesn't appear to be anything special with this contactor, so I would look for any similar contractor that's readily available and fits.

[Alex Zeller]

I'm not sure what that switch on top of it is for. They style we normally use all have a square block that you can push in to manually activate the contactor. I assume it was working fine and now isn't. Usually the magnet on the bottom of the contactor will list what it needs for power or a model number. My guess is it's most likely 240vac and less likely 120vac. The good news is there doesn't look to be anything added on to it so any contactor rated for the same voltage and amperage should work. We use lots of ABB and Eaton brand stuff at work but there's lots to choose from. Is there plenty of room around it to mount something of a slightly different size? I would stick with a name brand and you'll most likely get decades of life out of the new one.

When we see them fail it's either the coil burns out and they no longer pull the contactor in or the contacts arc and enough heat is generated so the internal plastic gets damaged so it no longer moves. Your contactor looks to be for a 3 phase circuit but only using two (L1 and L2) of the 3 switches. So a single phase contactor would work in your application.

[Dennis Peacock]

Yes, the contactor's contacts welded shut. Here's a shot of it and the entire switch assembly.
burnt_contactor.jpg

And the entire switch assembly:
switch_assembly.jpg

[Dennis Peacock]

The rest of the switch. Switch rear where the contactor attaches:
switch_rear.jpg

And the front of the switch:
switch_front.jpg

[Dennis Peacock]

Oh, yes.....220V, Single Phase power for the saw. The switch is a flip to the right and then to start the saw, you twist it further right and then release the switch. If I need to go a different route to make this a better and easier to maintain setup? I am willing to convert it. I'm just not willing to spend $$$ on replacing this entire assembly. At one point, the entire switch assembly was $330. I'm wanting a cheaper solution.

[Dennis Peacock]

I found this on Amazon......I'm thinking that this would work.....

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-1882.../dp/B002LVUWHM

Thoughts?

[David Bryan West]

On a side note, I just bought a bandsaw I believe to be the same as you have. Its got a 1.5hp motor and 12-7/16" resew under the euro guides. do you know if I change out the guides to Carter, will it increase resew to 14"?also is there a better way to tension the blade? the knob just seems not very solid. it works as it should but could be better. I adjusted the wheels to be coplanar, as they were way off. and I had to shim the table to be square to the back of the blade. crazy. It doesn't have the rack and pinion gear for the blade guard, I wish it did. the movement of the blade guard is pretty tough. I lubed it up, its better, but still hard to move with one hand. I bought a highland hardware wood slicer 3/4" blade for resewing and I'm waiting for it to come. the blades that came with the saw were pretty cruddy. I put on new wheels from htc for it. I didn't want to spend 240 on Laguna kit. I'm thinking about Changi ng the guides to Carter but 300 is steep. but probably worth it especially if you get more height on the saw. let me know about it. does your swith come off easily? mine just falls off if the touch it. seems weird. like its missing something to hold it on. maybe it was a safety thing I don't know. also mine has the slot for the blade brake but its not on the machine. it would be nice to add one. doe you know about that? my saw is the Meber one.

[David Bryan West]

IMG_7672.jpgIMG_7724.jpg

[Alex Zeller]

That bighorn switch would work but it would replace all of the electronics. It most likely would require you to set up the thermal overload. Also if you have a foot brake or any other safety switches that shut the motor off they wouldn't work unless you did some additional wiring. If you are comfortable doing some wiring you could do it. On my Grizzly there's a key switch. If I was going to do the upgrade you're thinking about I would add it. What I do is remove the key when I take the tension off the blade. I have a magnet next to the handle so I don't forget to tension it before turning it on.

[Dennis Peacock]

Thank you! I'll get the switch on order. There's only 1 wire coming into the saw.....ground and 2 hot legs. That's all the same wires going directly to the motor. There's no other wiring on the saw. It's old and simple.

[Jim Becker]

If there are no safety microswitches, etc., the new starter you link to will likely work just fine.

[Bill Dufour]

I think you will have problems with that switch. It looks to me like your motor has no centrifugal starter switch built in. Apply power to the motor then rotate the switch to engage the starter circuit, wait for it to get to speed,then disengage the starter circuit. Maybe a submersible pump controller. or they make solid state starter controls designed to replace a centrifugal switch. I think the solid state ones are just a delay off timer
Bill D

[Alex Zeller]

I think you will have problems with that switch. It looks to me like your motor has no centrifugal starter switch built in. Apply power to the motor then rotate the switch to engage the starter circuit, wait for it to get to speed,then disengage the starter circuit. Maybe a submersible pump controller. or they make solid state starter controls designed to replace a centrifugal switch. I think the solid state ones are just a delay off timer
Bill D

It looks like there's only two sets of wires, both orange and blue (along with a ground). One is the power coming in and the other is the power going to the motor. I think turning the switch all the way clockwise is just like pushing the start button and energizes the magnet for the contactor. If not and you have to hold the switch in the start position until the motor gets up to speed then I agree that switch may not work.

[Dennis Peacock]

Well, I guess I'll find out late this week. I have 2 different switches coming. Right now, I have it straight-wired (line In wired directly to the motor) and it's working perfectly. So my thought is, that one of the switches I ordered will work just fine.