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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Jim, I don’t know about SCM but with the Felder j/p hardly any space
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Re a wedge, I'm lazy;-) And there has to be a gap to start with, and you gotta guess how hard to drive it in ...
Or you're thinking under the base itself, not the foot?
I've measured a difference between the tables when I've moved it. Don't remember numbers, not huge though. Surface gauge and test indicator. While tweaking the tables in, not a daily activity. I'm not *quite* that far gone ... yet.
Maybe noticeable with a good straight edge? Maybe.
I was very happy I bought a narrow pallet jack when I moved into my workshop. I've used it to fine tune position of tools.
I just built a riser block for shelving in my garage, with a space underneath so I can store the pallet jack. I don't think anyone has noticed it since.
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
Mark, that's a good idea, but it wouldn't work in my shop because of the shelving I have on "that wall" behind the J/P. This is really more about "my shop" than anything else. I'd really have to keep a pallet jack in the one remaining garage bay. I could probably do that, but it would be really tight, especially in the winter when I have both the ZTR and the Kubota tractor tucked in there. And with only two uses of a pallet jack since the mid 2000s, I don't think a buy would be justified. Maybe for the next shop. LOL
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
With a good tool/equipment rental place only a mile or so away, renting an engine lift for a day is barely over $40. I used it to get my 850+ pound A3-41 off its shipping pallet, and onto its PM3550 mobile base.
First, I had to jack up each end of the pallet to create enough clearance for the lift's lower arms with casters to roll under the shipping pallet. I used the 2x4 crate frame lumber to make four sturdy pedestals to securely support the pallet up off the ground.
I probably should have taken a picture of the rigging, but I started by placing the midpoint of my 4" wide by 20' long tow strap over the outfeed table. I then passed the two ends down on either side of the outfeed table, under the cabinet to the infeed side, and then up, around their respective side of the infeed table. I then fastened the two end loops to the midpoint of the strap with a large shackle, which I also fastened to the lift's chain.
I had to slide the strap around a little to adjust the lift point side-side and fore-aft, after a few short test lifts showed me where the balance point would be. When lifted, the shackle was about a foot above the jointer tables.
I removed the 4 sheet metal covers over the front and back jointer table adjustment points before any lifting, to make sure they would not be bent by the strap. I also removed the two screws that fasten the magnetic starter relay box to the frame, so it could slide out of the way, for the same reason. Basically, any point the straps passed over that didn't look heavy enough to withstand the strap's pressure, I removed or adjusted to avoid the straps. I also removed the mounting arm for the euro-guard.
I can afford to rent that lift several times before I'd be ahead buying one (especially one as heavy duty as the rental lift), and storing one would reduce my already small shop space even further.
-- Andy - Arlington TX
Thanks for this post Andy.
I’ve got a FS-30 coming soon and have been planning how to get it on the Portamate mobile base I have for it. I hadn’t considered that I may be able to rent a lift so I’ll be making some calls Monday. My primary plan involves my neighbour’s tractor that has a set of forks on it but I like to have a backup plan as well. The lifting method is duly noted.
I hope my setup goes as smoothly!
Thanks for the replies....sounds like staying co-planer is not an issue with these high-quality machines....good to know!
You're very welcome, David.
One thing about the lift: It uses a hydraulic cylinder, that only retracts when you unscrew the relief valve. Some of them are very touchy, and a very slight twist can send a heavy load down very quickly. I was expecting this might happen, and practiced the release during those first short lifts (only a couple inches off the pallet) to find the balance point for the sling.
I was glad I had done that when I actually set it down on the mobile base.
Let us know how your lift goes!
-- Andy - Arlington TX
It depends on how the machine sits relative to the wall. I'm familiar with the 'Johnson bar' system. I have the short end of the machine against the wall so the lifting/steering bar needs to be on the other short end. The 'Johnson bar' system is optimum if the machine's long side sits against a wall.