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Thread: Wood Glue

  1. #1
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    Wood Glue

    I have three bottles of wood glue on my shelf.
    I was messing around in the shop and has a 3/8 x 1/2 piece of wood and cut it in half and mitered the the ends to 45 degrees.
    I glued them together with TITE BOND ULTIMATE. I have a 3x3x1/2 square to use to mark small pieces with.

    I am astounded at the integrity of the glue joint. It is stiff, water proof, and I cannot break it with my hands.


    I just thought you might like to know. They have three grades of Tite Bond.

  2. #2
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    I have a gallon of the Titebond III that I bought a month or so ago and I'm very happy with it.
    However, my old glue was Elmer's.
    If you look up the comparisons you may find where someone showed Elmer's was as good or slightly better (granted it was reasonable but not a scientific study so the scientific side of me says it could be claimed equivalent statistically). I was surprised as I'm getting older and figure the new stuff had to be better. But Elmer's looks like they still are as good as it gets.

  3. #3
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    It's all the same basic PVA chemistry, afaik. I saw an interesting article about using grocery store gelatine as hide glue for field repairs. Again, same stuff, just different source.

    Use a little hide glue, and you'll recognize it immediately in puddings.

  4. #4
    Expose it to some heat (set it in a sunny window). It may likely fall apart. Not a concern if your parts stay in a basement or dark area with no chance of exposure to sun. But if your making work for others and the part could wind up infront of a sunny window, or outside in the sun, your dead. After that unless your material prep is pretty impeccable the glue joint is very flexible which will lead to creep and finish issues.

    Its all what works for you and the type of work you do.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    Expose it to some heat (set it in a sunny window). It may likely fall apart. Not a concern if your parts stay in a basement or dark area with no chance of exposure to sun. But if your making work for others and the part could wind up infront of a sunny window, or outside in the sun, your dead. After that unless your material prep is pretty impeccable the glue joint is very flexible which will lead to creep and finish issues.

    Its all what works for you and the type of work you do.

    what? extra stuff to make word count

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    Expose it to some heat (set it in a sunny window). It may likely fall apart. Not a concern if your parts stay in a basement or dark area with no chance of exposure to sun. But if your making work for others and the part could wind up infront of a sunny window, or outside in the sun, your dead. After that unless your material prep is pretty impeccable the glue joint is very flexible which will lead to creep and finish issues.

    Its all what works for you and the type of work you do.
    I'll have to disagree. I made an end grain cutting board, it sees daily use, gets left in water, when not being used it sits in my window shelf in direct sun at times. Been in use 10 or 15 years. Hasn't fallen apart yet. I trust Titebond. Have not had a failure yet.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Iwamoto View Post
    I'll have to disagree. I made an end grain cutting board, it sees daily use, gets left in water, when not being used it sits in my window shelf in direct sun at times. Been in use 10 or 15 years. Hasn't fallen apart yet. I trust Titebond. Have not had a failure yet.
    Heat will = failure. Soft will = creep. Your work, or some work, may never have an issue or it may rear its ugly head when you least expect it. Only you can decide whats acceptable for your work. We all have our own experiences.

  8. #8
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    For outside work, I favor epoxy.

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