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Thread: Need Input for Flooring for Shop

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Waterford, PA
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    1,225
    My floor is the typical T & G 3/4" plywood used for subfloors. It is reasonably priced, helps prevent sawdust from filtering to below the flooring and looks okay. I had expected to paint it with Porch Floor Enamel, but have never gotten around to it. It has held up well, even though I move my cabinet saw and 15" planer around.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
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    268
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Kepley View Post
    https://www.rubberflooringinc.com/in...bber-tile.html

    Here's a link. Let me know what you think. I haven't pulled the trigger yet. There is young guy on Youtube who put this in his shop. I reached out for some feedback, but he didn't respond.

    That's along the lines of what I was thinking. They appear to also carry the "ramps" needed for the edges. I also get a pop-up for 28% off... what's not to like?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
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    I went with Pergo over roll foam on my 1975 concrete floor.. Not slippery, but sweeping is a dream. Entire finished basement same material. A few small dents where the TS wheels sit.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    NOW you tell me...

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    204
    Thanks for the input....I think I'm going to go with 3/4 tongue/groove plywood, one-side sanded. Seems the most practical. I'll stain it so it looks a little bit more finished...and then maybe a coat of poly over that, or not. It is, after all, a shop. Thanks again!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
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    672
    I see you are from California so I imagine low temperature isnīt a major issue. I would go for painted concrete. Actually it is what I have in my small shop under tropic Capricorn (800 m altitude). Works great to me all the year. My shop is used all the year and except for a couple of days in the year it is plenty comfortable.
    All the best.

    Osvaldo.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
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    Quote Originally Posted by Izzy Charo View Post
    Thanks for the input....I think I'm going to go with 3/4 tongue/groove plywood, one-side sanded. Seems the most practical. I'll stain it so it looks a little bit more finished...and then maybe a coat of poly over that, or not. It is, after all, a shop. Thanks again!
    Be aware that plywood won't stand up well to repeatedly having heavy machinery wheeled back & forth. We had a shop with a mezzanine & just having a pallet jack with wide wheels moving things around completely destroyed the top layer & mostly through the second. This was over several years, but they weren't heavily loaded pallets, maybe 300-400 lbs.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Osvaldo Cristo View Post
    I see you are from California so I imagine low temperature isnīt a major issue. I would go for painted concrete. Actually it is what I have in my small shop under tropic Capricorn (800 m altitude). Works great to me all the year. My shop is used all the year and except for a couple of days in the year it is plenty comfortable.
    The whole idea of a wood/wood product floor is that it's more comfortable on the feet than concrete. That little bit of "give" can make a lot of difference. It's not just about heat/cold.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,280
    Another vote for Advantech. But I would look around and see if you can find thicker stuff. The 3/4" should be fine but 1" should be better for heavy equipment. As far as standing in front of a machine why not just get a anti-fatigue mat? Put them where you want and move them if needed.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
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    672

    I will take your word...

    Jim, I will take your word... but it looks odd for me: the floor from all the habitable space of our home have 20 mm solid ipe boards over concrete since I built it almost 30 years ago. The garage and my workshop have only acrylic painted concrete. Except on the coldest days or when barefooted, I cannot feel comfort difference between them.

    All the best!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    The whole idea of a wood/wood product floor is that it's more comfortable on the feet than concrete. That little bit of "give" can make a lot of difference. It's not just about heat/cold.
    Last edited by Osvaldo Cristo; 09-18-2020 at 6:39 PM. Reason: Typo as usual
    All the best.

    Osvaldo.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
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    Ipe is hard. Also, dropped tools are happier with wood flooring of any kind.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Von Bickley View Post
    I don't think I could put birch down for flooring. My vote would be for advantech.
    Just put down Advantech in the shop. Long story, it was the best cost\value by far. used the foam glue (great product) and tapcons. I do like the look too FWIW. I think it would look really nice with a clear poly on it. Haven't got that far yet though.
    Shop Floor.jpg
    Last edited by Daniel O'Neill; 09-21-2020 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Picture

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
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    I went with dricore. It was fast and relatively cheap (and doesn't require sleepers/vapor barrier). With that said, it's only up in the bench area of my shop, so there will be no heavy tools on mobile bases, ever.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  13. #28
    I recently finished my shop addition and went with this sandwich:

    * 5mm loose lay vinyl
    * 1-1/8" T&G subfloor
    * 2x4 sleepers on 12" centers

    Moving from a basement shop I was also "feeling it" in my knees and ankles after a few hours so I sprung for the sleeper floor. I did retain a 10x20 slab area just in case I get something really beasltly!

    I went with the loose-lay product for repairability; it does not click together. The disadvantage, as I've found out, is that it will slip & buckle under a heavy rolling load (400 lbs+). Just need to apply more rows of adhesive than the manufacturer recommends.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    452
    I second the recommendation for high quality work footwear.

    There is no substitute for excellent foot support, regardless of flooring material, when you will be standing/walking for hours.

    And the price of good footwear is a bargain compared to some flooring solutions.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,844
    Go run on concrete.
    Go run on asphalt.
    Go run on hard packed dirt.

    You can feel the difference, easily, between all three (this is why you'll see many runners eschew the sidewalk in preference for the street btw). Shoes help, and you should wear good ones, but surface matters.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

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