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Thread: Best Finish for Walnut Cabinetry

  1. #1

    Best Finish for Walnut Cabinetry

    I've been researching different types of finish for walnut veneered kitchen cabinet doors and it seems like Tried and True's Linseed Oil is a pretty popular selection. The doors will be slab style and edge banded with walnut veneer. Do you all recommend this type of finish for kitchen cabinets? I do have a Fuji Spray HVLP turbine unit I could use but was hoping there was an easy wipe-on finish that provides protection. I'd prefer to keep the doors looking natural and not shiny/plastic looking like a poly does.

  2. #2
    "I do have a Fuji Spray HVLP turbine"

    Me too.

    I have finished several sets of slab veneer kitchen, bath, and bar cabinets.

    I recommend Target EM8000CV in whatever gloss you wish. You can shoot a coat of zinsser shellac to give it some color.

    It will be so easy to spray that, you'll think you're cheating.


  3. #3
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    If you want to use a wipe on finish I recommend you use something with more protection than Tried and True. GF's Arm-R-Seal or Waterlox Original are a lot more durable and easy to apply with a rag or paper towel.

    John

  4. #4
    It might seem like a wipe on finish is easier than spraying, but the good waterbased products level well and dry fast so you can finish both sides of a door in one day. And these products clean out of a spray gun easily.
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 09-11-2020 at 8:54 PM.

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    Do walnut veneer ply and edge banding lighten over time like solid walnut? I add a bit of unnoticeable-when-freshly-finished color to maintain that color over time on some pieces. Others I let age el natural.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  6. #6
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    While I am an Uber-fan of T&T polymerized oil for decorative things and “some” furniture uses, no way would I use it in the kitchen other than as an initial oil application for color before moving on to a kitchen durable finishing regimen. As has been mentioned by another poster, my own go-to for kitchen related projects for a clear coat is Target Costings EM8000cv with the cross-linker. Yes it needs to be sprayed. And if used over the oil, the oil needs to be fully cured or a barrier cost of wax free shellac used before the waterborne finish is sprayed on. If you want to wipe in, you’ll want a quality oil based wiping varnish/polyurethane
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    The Emcv8000 is workable enough that you can use a foam brush to coat the veneer edges if you wish.

  8. #8
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    I have a walnut countertop with garnet shellac base for the depth and Waterlox for protection. The last coat or two was Waterlox satin for A low sheen.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    ...my own go-to for kitchen related projects for a clear coat is Target Costings EM8000cv with the cross-linker. ...
    I'd like to try this on woodturnings. Some questions:

    I generally like a "soft" sheen, not a high gloss. With other finishes I sometimes rub with pumice/rottenstone.
    With this finish do you think it's better to buy the semi-gloss?

    Do you add the cross-linker just before use and throw away any not used?

    Also, do you buy directly from Target Coatings?
    From their web site it looks like it will cost me about $70 for the smallest size, 32 oz, 8 oz cross-linker. (a bit high for a test!)

    JKJ

  10. #10
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    John, there are various sheens. If you are going to rub to your preference, then start with gloss and go from there. But the matte/flat isn’t entirely flat either. Any material with cross linker added is discarded if not used within the available time period. Get on Target’s mailing list for discount codes that are typically 20-25%. There are few retailers for the brand...I buy direct as do most folks
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
    I have used the flat sheen on my island and it is as flat as you could possibly rub out.

    The crosslinker does last a while. A single bottle has lasted me for 3 projects already over 9 months. You don’t have to throw it out.

    For turnings you may not need the cross linker.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    The crosslinker does last a while. A single bottle has lasted me for 3 projects already over 9 months. You don’t have to throw it out.

    For turnings you may not need the cross linker.
    in the first point, yes, the actual criss linker (additive) is fine to use until it’s gone. But the finish that it’s added to has a short shelf life and must be discarded. If it’s returned to the can of finish, the whole thing will be hard in some period of time even with the lid on.

    i agree on the second point ... not likely needed for a turning unless there’s a special circumstance.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel
    ...or turnings you may not need the cross linker.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    ... not likely needed for a turning unless there’s a special circumstance.
    What kind of circumstance? Does it make the finish any more resistant to damage by water? Or aid in application?

    JKJ

  14. #14
    It does make the finish more resistant to chemical exposure - how much? I can't say.

    For decorative turnings, the cross linker may be unnecessary.
    For mildly used ones - like fruit bowls or potpourri, it would improve the durability.

    I'm sure you are years ahead of me on this but for those reading: I wouldn't vouch for the long term durability of any film finish (oil or water) on a heavily used utility item that will be frequently washed like a spoon or wet goods bowl.

  15. #15
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    The primary benefit of the cross linker is increased chemical resistance and perhaps a little more physical durability...necessary for kitchens sometimes, for example.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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