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Thread: 8'+ Long L-Bracket styled shelving using 3/4" plywood and miter joint

  1. #1

    8'+ Long L-Bracket styled shelving using 3/4" plywood and miter joint

    I have in mind to build one or two 13' long shelves for my bedroom wall. It's suppose to hold up textbooks (the heaviest point-source load) and miscellaneous stuff (distributed load).

    I thought to try to make a simple shelf out of 3/4" plywood. I never liked the bulky look of support brackets so I went with an L-bracket design, using a plane-ol' miter joint; the shelf is essentially a giant L-shape bracket hung from one of the sides.

    My primary concern was the strength of the miter joint and the positioning of shelving bracket (whether to have the joint sit closer to the floor or closer to the ceiling). In the end, I chose a miter joint over a dado or rabbet joint -- for no particular technical reason other than an intuition that it was somehow stronger after spline reinforcement and that it was simple to cut and put together (although glue up was hard).

    After glue up and a 4-hour cure time, I tested the joint by mounting it against my shop's plywood wall (16" spacing of screws) and standing on top of it. I'm a small guy, 115 lb, but as a point-source load, I'd be a *seriously* heavy book. The joint deflected 1/4"-3/8" where I stood, as expected, but surprisingly the joint didn't fail -- and this was without the splines! With a combination of some additional techniques:

    • Splines along the length of the miter joint
    • 2-3 Metal L-brackets, inset on the inner side of the joint (on the shelf surface; I don't completely trust the joint so this is to hedge against catastrophic failure)
    • Biscuits for alignment during glue-up (my miter joint wasn't seamless because it was difficult to manage a 8' long shelf. I ended up relying on pin-nails to hold the piece in place while it dried.)

    I think this is a viable shelving alternative that's minimalistic and elegant compared to the bulky, expensive, and destructive hollow floating shelves that's the vogue nowadays.

    Shelf dimensions:
    Leg 1 (Outer length of miter): 5"
    Leg 2 (Inner length of miter/effective shelf depth): 9"
    Shelf length: 8'
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Columbus, OH
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    3,064
    If I understand your construction, that glued miter joint is not providing the strength you think it is. Most likely the metal brackets you used are providing the bulk of the strength. Glued miter joints with plywood aren't very strong as half of the wood in the joint is going to be endgrain.

    IMHO, it would be MUCH easier construction and stronger to do a butt joint with glue and pocket screws on the back side.
    Last edited by Brian Tymchak; 09-10-2020 at 8:09 PM.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  3. #3
    Glued miter joints with plywood aren't very strong as half of the wood in the joint is going to be endgrain.

    That's just it! I haven't added the brackets, biscuits, or splines and already it could support my weight. I wouldn't jump on it or think it'd be able to hold a point-load of 200+lb but it's surprisingly strong for just a miter joint.

    IMHO, it would be MUCH easier construction and stronger to do a butt joint with glue and pocket screws on the back side.

    It's tough to say without testing to failure. A glued butt joint without pocket screw support isn't as a strong as a miter joint because of less glue surface but I agree -- together they could perform as well if not better than a miter joint (and construction would be easier). A lock rabbet joint with pocket holes might work better still due to the additional glue surface.

    I'll try the next one using butt joint and pocket holes and perhaps with splines too because ... I just made a spline cutting jig for this XD

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,771
    Assemble with a piece of duct tape the length of the joint. Lay both boards on the tape, spread glue and fold.

    You could add a lot of strength with a strip of fiberglass cloth 3" wide epoxied over the miter joint. Then forget the splines and metal brackets.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    1,544
    Depending on what is on the shelf, the front (unsupported) edge can sag over time. You see this a lot on bookshelves unless they have a piece of hardwood edging on the front.

    I'm surprised the miter was this strong.

    Edited: Actually since you are continuously supporting it along the wall, sagging may not be as much of a concern?
    Last edited by Michael W. Clark; 09-14-2020 at 7:36 PM. Reason: Re-thunk it

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