Epoxy temporary barrier

[ChrisA Edwards]

I routed out a design in a cutting board that I plan to fill with colored epoxy. I initially planned on just using one color, but now want to try and use two.

So in the grooves, about 3mm wide by 3mm deep, I need to make some temporary dams that will not let the epoxy bleed into the area where I don't want it.

After the first color is set, I need to get rid of the dams for the second color pour.

A couple of ideas, one is to use a blob of silicone where necessary, the other os to put a small pice of wood and CA glue it in place.

Thoughts, thanks.

[Richard Coers]

silicone will contaminate the surface and prevent any kind of finish from sticking. I'd experiment with something like PlayDoh, or plumbers putty.

[Steve Eure]

I have used modeling clay to make dams for epoxy pours. I bought mine from either Michael's or Hobby Lobby. A 10# box is inexpensive and goes a long way.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Thank you both, I'll see if I have some plumbers putty in my garage, otherwise I'll take a trip to get some modeling clay tomorrow.

[Matt Day]

I didn’t know I had so much epoxy dam material sitting around, with 2 young kids and all. Might just ask a neighborhood family for some - save yourself a trip.

[Stewart Lang]

I routed out a design in a cutting board that I plan to fill with colored epoxy. I initially planned on just using one color, but now want to try and use two.

So in the grooves, about 3mm wide by 3mm deep, I need to make some temporary dams that will not let the epoxy bleed into the area where I don't want it.

After the first color is set, I need to get rid of the dams for the second color pour.

A couple of ideas, one is to use a blob of silicone where necessary, the other os to put a small pice of wood and CA glue it in place.

Thoughts, thanks.

Hot glue works very well and makes for very easy removal. You can form it as you need too. Packaging tape also works great depending on the setup.

[Mike Walsh]

I've used both hot glue, packing tape and latex (not silicone) caulk to "block" areas in epoxy pours on a bunch of different wood species. All worked well

[ChrisA Edwards]

Found some Plumbers Putty, so we'll see how this works out.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions





Just as a heads up, I made the end grain cutting board out of Walnut, Cherry and Maple. The design is on the under side of the cutting board.

The blue film is Oramask. I routed the design with my Shaper Origin and then applied two coats of de-waxed Shellac to the routed out section and walls, it's amazing how much of the relatively thick resin will get sucked into the end grain.

[Jamie Buxton]

The last time I used plumbers putty, it had oil in it. It would stain wood, and likely interfere with the usual wood glue. Try rubbing some around in your hands, and look for oil on the skin.

[johnny means]

I just pour then route for the second color. I can't say I've done enough of this to claim it's the leanest technique, but it is precise and predictable.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Jamie, yes it definitely feels oily, but for the most part, it's getting applied on top of the Oramask.

Johnny, that's a possibility, but I'd have to do a cut, pour, sand three times as each subsequent cut needs a flat surface. The Shaper Origin CNC works like a regular hand head router, so it rides on the base plate.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Not yet quite finished, but the plumbers putty worked well where the white birds met the green branch.

I definitely could not use the plumbers putty without the Oramask. There's a small stain below left birds tail where I had a bit of putty on the bare wood while I did spot repair.