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Thread: Logs to lumber by hand?

  1. #1

    Logs to lumber by hand?

    Hello all,
    I'm in an area with easy access to certain hardwoods (yellow birch, maple) from firewood suppliers. Is it feasible to convert a 4-8' log to lumber by hand without building a sawpit and working at it for eons? I'm wondering if I could get a log, ask them to split it, and then use an axe and wedge to split off boards. Anyone with experience? I realize it's a very inefficient way of going at it compared to using something like a Woodmizer, but I don't have the space (or money) for one.
    Cheers!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    280
    It seems like a lot of work; you are clearly in better shape than me if you are considering that! I’d see if there is someone with a bandsaw mill nearby that is willing to do it for you or is selling at a decent cost. A chainsaw mill might be another alternative for you. I’m not sure where you are located in NB but I often see wood on Kijiji

  3. #3
    I only want a small quantity, so it's not really worth finding someone with the equipment to mill it for me - I don't mind spending a few hours hammering in wedges if necessary. With COVID, I'm not getting enough exercise anyway...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKinney, TX
    Posts
    2,060
    Seems like splitting by its very nature will follow the grain so you would need to start splitting with the whole log.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,599
    It should work with perfectly straight grained wood. I rarely get logs with perfectly straight grain, however.

    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,412
    A 4' log could be split into quarters and then easily be sawn into boards on a band saw. Second would be to get a Haddon lumber maker and use a chainsaw.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
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    1,566
    If you want pretty thick planks it can be done. For small stuff I would go with the quartering and bandsaw as above. I remember reading an article about reeconstructing the English fort at Jamestown Virginia in the original style. The royal charter or edict specified sawn planks, I think white oak something like 3" thick.

    The reconstruction team found it was much faster to split the planks out with froes and wedges and mallets rather than sawing. I don't remember if Roy Underhill wrote the article or was just one of the guys on the reconstruction team, pretty engaging article I read though, I bet his name is on it. They decided their planks could stop arrows and muskets but even if they had sawn them they wouldn't stop cannon balls, so good enough considering the King was probably never going to visit in person.

    I did once upon a time drill a couple holes in a chain bar and use nuts and bolts to stand a parallel guide about 1.5 inches off the bar chain. It worked ok, but the board was only as flat as the guide surface when I was done. I still have it, but the bolts in the holes limit the diameter of log you can slice a plank from. Have you considered an Alaska Chain Saw Mill? I think Granberg originally made them. I have never used one.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    9,599
    You can saw very high quality lumber with a chainsaw and Alaskan Mill. But unless you already own a large chainsaw the cost of admission is at least $1000. The chainsaw I use cost almost $800 nearly 20 years ago and is now around $1200. An Alaskan Mill is another $250 or so and, good grief, a single ripping chain for my 42" bar costs $75. Easy to see why the OP asked about doing it manually.

    John

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Lake Leelanau, MI
    Posts
    2,630
    I've got around 1,000 bd. ft. of walnut, cherry and sycamore behind my shop. All done with an Alaska Chainsaw Mill. It's a lot of work for a board, but it's worth it if you like to use a chainsaw.

    John is right about the cost. I paid $900 for my chainsaw and drove to Arkansas for the walnut. I also bought an electric sharpener which really comes in handy.

    John
    John Bailey
    Sawmill Creek is a member supported forum. Click here to donate.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,645
    Tyler - look up "riving" or "riving logs" on the internet (dont get sidetracked by "driving logs"). I think that's what you're talking about.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    71
    Not exactly by "hand", but I ran across these pictures the other day.

    My great grandfather had a stationary sawmill, in the first picture, circa 1935. Later on his eldest son, My grandfather, built a portable sawmill in the early 1950's with a 44" blade that he traveled the area doing custom sawing with. He spent an entire winter sawing at Wolf Lake in Northern Alberta. Here's the lumber pile that they amassed.
    Logpile.jpg
    Lumber Pile.jpg

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,236
    Hi Tyler, a stationary bandsaw can be used to make lumber with a sled.

    I normally cut the log to 3 or 4 feet in length, split it and then saw it into boards.

    You could also split them....Rod

  13. #13
    Yes you can. You should get true rift sawn boards. According to Underhill rift sawn is what quarter sawn wishes it was. If I recall maple splits easily. Give it a try. I hope you have some good planes

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