Dust Bin Top Repair Help

[Bob Cooper]

All the sudden i noticed my bin wasn't filling up. Went to look for a "small" leak and was pretty surprised at what i saw.

I have a few questions for you. As you can tell there are 3-4 cracks in the top starting at where i cut the hole in the top and inserted an HVAC coupler. It's been in service for about 5 years. I have to have somewhat of a low height barrel if i replace everything as the ceilings in my cellar (below the workshop) are about 7.5' <-- i've got a clear vue in there right now.

i need to replace this lid and originally i bought the bin/lid from Penn State but i don't see they sell this anymore so i'm not sure if i can get a direct replacement or not?

1 - suggestions on where to get a replacement? It fits on a 35gallon fiber/cardboard type bin. Do i need to replace the entire bin and lid or just the lid?
2 - suggestions on quick fixes as i'd rather not be down while the new part comes in. My first thoughts are fiberglass. I figured i'd go by West Marine and by some cloth, resin and hardener...as long as it will stick to that poly material.
3 - if i get a new one...i'm curious what folks that are using metal HVAC pipe use to mate to the top. I've scraped away all the silicone so that you can better see the cracks.

Thanks all for your help.

top.jpg

[Matt Day]

You can replace the bin and lid with a 30 gallon metal barrel.

[Ron Selzer]

you can cut a wood disk for a lid stiffener, install it on the inside of the lid.
Clean the lid well and use silicone between plastic lid and wood
should work long enough to decide and get a new lid or complete barrel.
good luck
Ron

[Paul F Franklin]

Oneida Air systems sells various size drums and lids, as does McMaster. I'd try and find a local source, otherwise shipping will add up.

If you want to fix yours, I'd think about sandwiching the top between two largish disks of plywood, maybe 1/2". That will spread the strain over a larger area and also give you a way to seal the cracked areas.

[Jamie Buxton]

For a quick fix, I'd pull out the duct tape. All you really need is no air leaks. Duct tape will stick to that plastic lid. Fiberglass resin is not likely to stick.

[Bob Cooper]

thanks...i like the idea of either just going w/duct take for a quick fix or plywood in and out.

Anyone know or have an opinion on whether a metal top that Onieda sells for their 35/55 gallon metal bin would likely fit a fiber one? i like the light weight barrel i have and i can see where shipping could get pretty expensive given the weight.

[Paul F Franklin]

thanks...i like the idea of either just going w/duct take for a quick fix or plywood in and out.

Anyone know or have an opinion on whether a metal top that Onieda sells for their 35/55 gallon metal bin would likely fit a fiber one? i like the light weight barrel i have and i can see where shipping could get pretty expensive given the weight.

I could measure mine a little later if you like. Does your fiber drum have the rounded lip on top that the drum top spring clamp grabs?

[glenn bradley]

I reinforced my plastic lids with a plywood doughnut from the get-go. The plywood disc is as large as I can make it while having the lid still operate correctly. The connectors go through the lid and the plywood when attaching your next item in line. The constant flexing of the plastic when under negative pressure and then without after use will eventually "beer can" the unsupported material as you have found. Mine have been running for many years with no signs of fatigue. You may be able to combine your doughnut with some sealer/silicone to restore your failed lid.

[Bob Cooper]

yea Paul...at the top of the fiber barrel is a metal ring and a spring clamp goes on the outside and pulls everything together.

[Bob Cooper]

Glenn...did you put plywood on the outside only and glue it to the top? i could see doing that w/something like contact cement or possibly putting plywood on both sides and maybe running 4 bolts thru to tie the two sides together. likely i'm over thinking this...i just need to seal those cracks and then stiffen it. Lastly...how think was the plywood you used?

[glenn bradley]

Glenn...did you put plywood on the outside only and glue it to the top? i could see doing that w/something like contact cement or possibly putting plywood on both sides and maybe running 4 bolts thru to tie the two sides together. likely i'm over thinking this...i just need to seal those cracks and then stiffen it. Lastly...how think was the plywood you used?

Sorry for the slow response I was out back. The ply went on the underside. You could silicone or caulk or fiberglass the cracks on your underside and then bolt through your fixture to hold it on. Here's an example from a Dust Deputy that was handy.

DD lid reinforce.jpg

Pay no attention to the little moon section missing at the bottom of the circle. That just happened to be in the scrap piece I used to make the doughnut.

[Don Coffman]

As folk have quoted a plywood donut shape works - or - disassemble to the bare lid get a plastic lid for a 5-gallon bucket cut a new donut to cement directly over the current (I assume 4-in hole) and you could double and cement an additional layer below.

[Mike Heidrick]

could you make a lid and bolt on a flanged machine coupler and use a foam sealer as a lip underneath. A wooden lid sure would not crack. Should be about the cost of the coupler Id imagine.