Oneway Vari-grind 2? Decent Instructions?

[Erich Weidner]

I purchased the vari-grind 2 jig to go along with my Wolverine setup. The basic Wolverine setup seems pretty intuitive.

However, the Vari-grind 2 is another matter. The "instructions" it came with was a single sheet of paper with a few pictures and no actual directions. The included DVD is of pretty poor quality (resolution and production wise... come on Oneway, learn how to zoom in so we can actually see what you are doing).

Anyway, anyone use the Vari-grind 2? Do you know of any better instructions, or can you help me figure this thing out?

The video states to set the tool 1-3/4" deep. But is pretty vague about where to set the post for various applications.
Also, mine has these little notches on the thing and alphabet markings on the bar. What are they for?

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Also, looks like Lee-Valley only sells the Vari-Grind 1, not the 2. Is it the case that the Vari-Grind 1 is considered superior by many perhaps?
I can still return it if need be.

[Richard Coers]

Oneway has always left the setting of the Vari-Grind up to the individual user. Angle and bevel style has always been a personal preference among turners. I much prefer the original version and have never had a problem with the chisel coming off the wheel. No idea how you feel this is a lemon product. A "lemon" refers to something that has multiple problems and as far as I can tell, you really only don't know how to use it. Thompson Tools and others show a picture of setting angle that can be printed and then used as a comparison on how to set the leg angle.

[Erich Weidner]

Oneway has always left the setting of the Vari-Grind up to the individual user...
...Thompson Tools and others show a picture of setting angle that can be printed and then used as a comparison on how to set the leg angle.

Thanks, edited the original post as one comment about any resemblance to fruit was unwarranted. However, the documentation does barely exist from Oneway, and is by no means adequate.
I'll have a look at the other resources you mentioned.

PS. I sent in questions to Oneway via their website contact form. Will see what I get back.

[Robert D Evans]

I use the printout from Thompson. It prints out full size. Just lay the jig over the picture and line up the adjustable leg. Tighten it down and you're done. I haven't found a need to move mine. I use a sharpie to mark places on the Wolverine insert jig so I can reset it quickly. I don't think a couple of degrees on the sharpening angle are going to make much difference as long as you can repeat the angle every time.

[Erich Weidner]

I use the printout from Thompson. It prints out full size.

The print out from Thompson is actually for the Vari-grind 1. The 2 is a bit different, and the Vari-grind 1 rests in the tri-corner of the long bar jig tool rest. The Vari-grind 2 has it's own unique tool rest.

[Pat Scott]

I would return the Varigrind 2 and buy the Varigring 1. I've never used a 2 but have been told the 2 keeps the tool centered on the wheel which means you'll wear out the center and not be able to use the full width of the wheel. I have the 1, and while you can slip off the edge of the wheel if you don't pay attention it's no big deal.

My guess is the markings are for your reference. Adjust the arm in/out until the bevel is rubbing and make note of which position (A,B,C,etc) it's at. Next time you need to sharpen that tool you can return the arm to the same spot.

There might be some YouTube videos also on the VG2 that will help.

[Joe Bradshaw]

Erich, I have the various-grind one and two. I use the one for my spindle gouge and the two for my bowl gouges. I have found a grind that works for me on both styles of gouges. I use a piece of pvc pipe to set my v-arms. There is a certain amount of try and error until you get the arms set. After that, I get the same grind every time.
Joe

[Robert Hayward]

I have both the 1 and 2. Originally bought the 1 and let a sales person talk me into the 2, I was new at sharpening back then. Once I learned how to sharpen I quit using the 2. I do not even remember where it is, it has been that long since I used it.

[John K Jordan]

I have and use several of the Varigrind 1 jigs. I bought one of the Varigrind 2 jigs. I don't like it and don't use it. I keep it around just so people can try it if they want to.

JKJ

[Erich Weidner]

Does anyone know of anyone who prefers the Vari-grind 2?
Other than centering on and keeping the gouge from sliding off the side of the wheel, does it offer any advantage?

I got a response from Oneway about instructions for it. I'm guessing aren't aren't any as they didn't point me to or attach to their reply with any. They did state in their reply that:

"...A to G and the scallops serve no function other that to help reproduce the way the jig is set up when moving from a bowl gouge with a side grind to a spindle gouge with a fingernail grind."

Unfortunately, I feel like I kind of bought a car with no manual... no big deal maybe unless you've never driven before. Analogy may be off, but I'm just so surprised there isn't better documentation or even examples of use of the scallops for example. They designed a product, applied for a patent, but didn't bother to write an instruction manual. ( I'm going to stop my micro-rant about it now.)

I have a CBN wheel, so not sure if the centering feature of the VG2 is the liability it could be with a friable wheel. So I don't think I need be concerned about that.

[Dave Fritz]

Seems several suppliers are using video rather than written instruction. I find videos more helpful but I learn best by seeing rather than reading.

[John K Jordan]

I have a CBN wheel, so not sure if the centering feature of the VG2 is the liability it could be with a friable wheel. So I don't think I need be concerned about that.

CBN wheels do wear out. Some say they will be worn out after year or two of heavy use. Mine are lasting a lot longer (my use is not heavy compared to some) but I can still see some reduction in how quickly they remove material. The wheels tend to be more aggressive when new until corners of the CBN particles get knocked off fairly quickly in the "break-in period) then the wheel settles in for the longer haul. I did replace my 600 grit CBN, the wheel I use the most, after maybe four years. I also replaced my 80 grit CBN wheel at the same time - I DID use the 80 grit heavily to reshape a number of large negative rake scrapers and other tools for myself and others. (Since it was for rough shaping only, I replaced it with a 60 grit CBN.)

But I was concerned that the Varigrind 2 would wear down the center of the CBN wheel faster since the sharpening is not distributed over a wider part of the wheel. It seems to me that keeping the gouge in the same place is less a liability for a conventional AlOx wheel since you could simply dress the wheel to remove the groove (until the wheel got too small). But there no dressing a CBN wheel if the grit is worn in one spot. What can you do, shift the Wolverine support a bit to the left or right? Maybe someone could devise a horizontally-adjustable pocket for the Wolverine to distribute the wear.

If you want some guidelines on how the position and angle set on the jig affects the look of the grind, the best I've found has nothing to do with the Varigrind but the principles are the same for the Oneway. The Tormek instructions for their equivalent jig has some great info and a useful chart. Look on page 83 of the Tormek SVG-186 jig manual found on this page (and probably elsewhere): https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/about-us

Note that there is nothing exclusive about this type of gouge jigs- there are many that basically work the same way - get a repeatable grind with a set stickout, leg angle, and pivot distance. You can even make your own with an adjustable or fixed angle. This is an illustration I made for home made fixed-angle gouge jig for document on how to build a sharpening system for about $10.

Sharp_D_E_from_PDF.jpg sharpA_system_small.jpg

JKJ

[Richard Coers]

Does anyone know of anyone who prefers the Vari-grind 2?
Other than centering on and keeping the gouge from sliding off the side of the wheel, does it offer any advantage?

I got a response from Oneway about instructions for it. I'm guessing aren't aren't any as they didn't point me to or attach to their reply with any. They did state in their reply that:

"...A to G and the scallops serve no function other that to help reproduce the way the jig is set up when moving from a bowl gouge with a side grind to a spindle gouge with a fingernail grind."

Unfortunately, I feel like I kind of bought a car with no manual... no big deal maybe unless you've never driven before. Analogy may be off, but I'm just so surprised there isn't better documentation or even examples of use of the scallops for example. They designed a product, applied for a patent, but didn't bother to write an instruction manual. ( I'm going to stop my micro-rant about it now.)

I have a CBN wheel, so not sure if the centering feature of the VG2 is the liability it could be with a friable wheel. So I don't think I need be concerned about that.

Did your lathe come with a set of instructions on how to do all your turning projects? I guess I'm just different, but I don't even look at a manual. Very few things in woodworking are fully explained in the manual. Could just be that I was raised on a farm and I was taught to just do it and learn from my mistakes.

[John K Jordan]

...I guess I'm just different, but I don't even look at a manual.

I thought I was the one that is different - I read every manual on every thing I acquire. After I bought my excavator I asked the sales guy about some point and he said I was the only one he ever heard about who read the manual. At that point I had read it twice.

The first lathe I had, a Ridgid clone of the old Craftsman tube lathe, had the best manual I've ever seen. The back section was essentially a course in woodturning, both spindles and face work. I learned the basics from that manual.

I agree that many products, tools, software, etc. have less than useful documentation. At least for those of us who read manuals.

JKJ

[Erich Weidner]

I agree that many products, tools, software, etc. have less than useful documentation. At least for those of us who read manuals.

This is indeed true. Many many of the modern ones are extremely sub par. But, I still read them. And - I really appreciate when a company puts some effort into a clear manual.
Well, I'm still not sure if I should keep this or return it for the Vari-grind 1.