sharping jigs

[Roy Scudamore]

Hi All,
Hope all is well with everyone virus free and stayin safe
I am looking to purchase a sharping jig. I think I have narrowed it down to the pro-grind or the tru-grind.
Any suggestions???
I used to have the wolverine until some not so nice person decided to break into my storage unit and wipe me out. But that is another story
Any thoughts or input would be very helpful
Thanks

Scuddy

[michael a miller]

The Wolverine has worked well for me. Did you not like it?
Mike

[Dick Mahany]

The Oneway Wolverine has likewise worked well for me for many years. Mine has the old style Vari-grind tool holder and it works well for my needs.

I have gone to platform sharpening for a majority of my lathe tools over the last few years and really like the Robo Rest. It took a while to get used to platform sharpening for swept back gouge grinds however I find myself using the platforms more frequently than the wolverine now.

I can't comment on the Tru-Grind or Pro-Grind.

[Kevin Jenness]

For frequent repeatable platform sharpening at different angles the Robo Rest can't be beat.

[Melvin Feng]

What kinds of lathe tools are you sharpening, and what profile are you sharpening to? What are your goals and budget, and what do you already have (like a grinder, CBN wheel, etc.)?

If you are primarily using scrapers and things that have simple geometry, a platform is going to be simplest and best.

If you are doing an Irish grind, or another multi-angle swept back style, or multiple types of grinds for different gouges, then going back to the wolverine with the vari-grind is the old standby.

I have the wolverine system, and actually have separate jigs for each different type of sharpening that I do for my gouges, I currently have the ellsworth jig, and two vari-grinds (I may need another vari-grind though), one for spindle gouges, and one for a 40/40 grind. I also have setup blocks for each of these to make setting up easier and more consistent.

I also just recently got the robo rest for my lathe tools that have simpler geometries, like my scrapers, parting tool, skew, etc. I found the best setting for each of the tools, then wrote it on them in sharpie, so I know what angle for each part (the negative rake scrapers have two settings that I needed to write). The robo rest version I got fits into the wolverine jig, so it works well with the setup I have. I have a 180 and 600 grit CBN wheel. I think I'll be keeping my gouges on the 180, and the robo rest on the 600 for now to see how well that works for me, though that may change in the future.

[John K Jordan]

For frequent repeatable platform sharpening at different angles the Robo Rest can't be beat.

I found I was mostly using several of the same angles. I started making jigs from plastic that let me quickly set the Wolverine platform to repeatable angles.

_scrapers_IMG_7811.jpg _scrapers_IMG_7809.jpg

I eventually spray painted one side of the plexiglas with white paint to make them easier to see.

hand_scraper_setup_IMG_7898.jpg

JKJ

[David Walser]

Roy -- If you're looking at a 'wolverine-esque' type jig, I prefer Woodcut's Tru-Grind (which is one that you're looking at). The reasons I prefer it to Oneway's system are that it takes up less room and I believe it is more precise. The wolverine's base has long slide arms, which are necessary for how Oneway expects you to put the end of a spindle roughing gouge in the v-block to sharpen the gouge. The Tru-Grind does not use the tool's handle as a reference point, so it's arms can be much shorter. This allows your grinding station to take up much less room. In addition, the wolverine's vari-grind jig requires you to use the v-block in the base as the pivot point. The v-block has a lot of room (so the end of a handle will fit), which permits the pivot point to shift side-to-side and front-to-back if you're not careful. In contrast, the end of the Tru-Grind jig is a ball, which fits snugly in a cup at the end of the base's arm. This keeps the pivot point anchored.

These are small, but noticeable, improvements. The downside of the Tru-Grind is that all the sharpening is done with the jig. There is no platform. (For that, I'd recommend the Robo Rest.) Also, because everything is sharpened with the jig, if your tool is too large to fit in the jig, it won't work for that tool. Virtually all my tools fit, but I have an extra-large spindle roughing gouge that will not. I also have some extra wide scrapers that will not fit. Even with these shortcomings, I prefer the Tru-Grind to the Wolverine system.

Having said that, I almost always use my Tormek jigs. I just ordered a CBN wheel for my Tormek, but I've been using my Tormek jigs with my 8" grinder for years.

[Roy Scudamore]

Thanks for all the info. Seems as though most everyone is using the wolverine.
Mike the reason for looking at buying another system some idiot stole my wolverine.
Also budget has a lot to due with it. Seems as thought the wolverine needs more stuff to buy increasing the cost. The pro grind comes with most all the extra attachment. I have made a homemade jig just want something simple and easy to go back to the same grind.
Will still look and watch the videos and what comes up
Again thanks for the imput

Scuddy

[Brian Deakin]

John how do you cut the plexiglas so cleanly

[John K Jordan]

John how do you cut the plexiglas so cleanly

I cut the plexiglass rectangles on the bandsaw. I file or sand the edges smooth as needed.

I set the grinder to the exact angle I need and trace the curve of wheel on the plexiglass. I cut the approximate curve on the bandsaw including a notch in the center since the jig works well contacting the wheel in two places.

I then turn on the grinder, hold the plastic against the tool rest, and use the wheel itself to make a perfect curve. Clean off any melted edges, write the angle/purpose on the plastic, and spray the back with white paint. I've made a bunch of these!

I know people sell gages like this but I'm too cheap to buy them and they never have the angles I'm used to.

JKJ

[Don Stephan]

The Robo Rest does everything I need, very quickly and efficiently, and was very easy on the budget to boot.

[Brian Deakin]

John thank you for the reply and providing the steps in making the jig My concern was would the pexiglas in contact with the grinder to cut the perfect curve have any detrimental effect on the CBN wheel

[Walter Mooney]

A big +1 for the Woodcut system. I use it and love it. As David said, it takes up very little room, and is quick and easy to use. I will add that there is now available a platform. I got my platform arm year or so ago, and have had the arm on the left for at least 12 years. You can set an angle of the platform and leave it. When you don't want the platform 'in the picture' you just loosen the screw and let it pivot out of the way. Also, I mounted my grinder on a separate piece of plywood, which I then mounted to the plywood base at the recommended 'exposure' distance for the tools (maybe 2-1/2" IIRC?). Just put the tool in the red jig, tighten it almost all the way, push the whole thing up against the main base and the tool against the grinder's base, tighten it down, and sharpen!

[Kyle Iwamoto]

John thank you for the reply and providing the steps in making the jig My concern was would the pexiglas in contact with the grinder to cut the perfect curve have any detrimental effect on the CBN wheel

I wouldn't risk the CBN wheel with melting plexi on it. Put a strip of sandpaper on the wheel and turn the wheel back and forth. Obviously with the grinder off..... NOT "perfect" but that's close enough I would think.

Thanks John! Yet another outstanding idea. I think I've stolen 3 or 4 tricks of yours so far. I'm getting some plexi out this afternoon......... Have you thought of a using jigsaw? I bought a special plexi blade, and it cuts well, and can get tighter turns.

[John K Jordan]

I wouldn't risk the CBN wheel with melting plexi on it. Put a strip of sandpaper on the wheel and turn the wheel back and forth. Obviously with the grinder off..... NOT "perfect" but that's close enough I would think.

Thanks John! Yet another outstanding idea. I think I've stolen 3 or 4 tricks of yours so far. I'm getting some plexi out this afternoon......... Have you thought of a using jigsaw? I bought a special plexi blade, and it cuts well, and can get tighter turns.

In my experience the plastic may melt some but it doesn't stick to or load up the CBN wheel. I use a light touch. I do these on a 600 grit CBN on a 1/2 speed grinder. Very little plastic is removed if I cut the curve close with the bandsaw. The scroll saw would work to rough out the curve, as would a hand operated coping saw or other turning saw. I think a jig saw might be harder to control on thin plexiglass unless the plastic is backed up with something. The sandpaper idea should work but I don't think it's necessary. If some plastic did transfer to the CBN wheel I'd probably take a wire brush to it or grind a scraper on it.

Kyle, by definition you can't steal any of my tricks. They are all given freely! I have met a few woodturners who gave cryptic and incomplete instructions or even just said to experiment and basically figure it out yourself, making me think they they wanted to keep some things a secret. I'll teach anything I know to anyone who asks (even if I can barely stand them - had a student like that once!!)

The worst example I've heard of is a famous woodturner who taught his specialty to a student then got upset when a student became very good and made a career from that specialty! I understand he still has hard feelings against the guy years later. I think if he didn't want people to use what he teaches perhaps he shouldn't be teaching it! I feel honored when someone uses what I taught, in fact one of my designs with instructions have been used by others to give club demos in several areas of the country. I even let them use my handout if they ask nicely.