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Thread: What’s you chisel mallet?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    866
    Current favorites:

    Blue Spruce 16 oz for tap-tap work
    Ron Bontz 24 oz (?) or Lee Valley Carpenter's Mallet for serious whacking

    I have (too many) others that roll into use from time to time.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    For most chisel work I use a modified Veritas Cabinetmaker’s mallet. This weighs around 18oz. The wooden infill is faced with UHMW. This provides a great balance between hardness and cushioning. There is no lack of feedback, an insignificant reduction of energy, and no jarring. The handle has the ergonomics I like ...



    This mallet is good for both bench- and mortice chisels. I try not to wack chisels too hard - which is difficult in my local woods - and the trick is to take fine slices to preserve the edge.

    If a mallet is needed for more delicate wood, I use my 7oz plane hammer. One end is Delrin (another name for UHMW?) ...



    At the other end if the scale, occasionally used is this 36oz persuader I built ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,225
    Very similar to Derek; the Veritas cabinetmakers mallet for most work, and a large “persuader” for mortises. I do find I’m pulling out the round wooden carvers mallet more, particular where a light touch is needed.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    springfield,or
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    644
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyler Bancroft View Post
    You may laugh, but I often use a one pound rubber mallet. It's not as effective as a wooden mallet at transferring energy to the chisel, but it damps way down on vibrations, which I really appreciate, as I'm prone to elbow problems.
    My most used hammer even though I made a mallet was a old chewed up rubber hammer I "borrowed" from my dad about 10 years ago and it broke yesterday.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyler Bancroft View Post
    You may laugh, but I often use a one pound rubber mallet. It's not as effective as a wooden mallet at transferring energy to the chisel, but it damps way down on vibrations, which I really appreciate, as I'm prone to elbow problems.
    I expect the Wood is Good mallet would work good for you too. It gives a chisel more of a "push", rather than a jump, like hitting it will something harder. They are also easy on the arm using it, since they are so good at absorbing shock. Quiet too.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
    Posts
    3,071
    This homebrew I made from a shower door handle and a scrap of maple. 24 ounces of nice compact heft.

    48235805522_144e63c646_k.jpg

    I have others as well. Use the tool that's right for the job.

    6D45127A-BF48-4A74-B117-338D75C7FC64.jpg
    Last edited by Rob Luter; 09-05-2020 at 9:13 AM.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  7. #22
    I have used a 30 ounce dogwood mallet with an 8 inch handle since 1979. Roubo shows a mallet with a somewhat bigger head, but also with an 8 inch handle. Roubo mentions mallet materials that are less dense than dogwood, but his head is large enough that the mallet might be up in the 32-34 ounce range. We don't swing a heavy mallet like a hammer, so a longer handle is not productive.

    I also use a persimmon mallet, carver style that is 14 ounces.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    For most chisel work I use a modified Veritas Cabinetmaker’s mallet. This weighs around 18oz. The wooden infill is faced with UHMW. This provides a great balance between hardness and cushioning. There is no lack of feedback, an insignificant reduction of energy, and no jarring. The handle has the ergonomics I like ...



    This mallet is good for both bench- and mortice chisels. I try not to wack chisels too hard - which is difficult in my local woods - and the trick is to take fine slices to preserve the edge.

    If a mallet is needed for more delicate wood, I use my 7oz plane hammer. One end is Delrin (another name for UHMW?) ...
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    This homebrew I made from a shower door handle and a scrap of maple. 24 ounces of nice compact heft.

    48235805522_144e63c646_k.jpg
    And not a round mallet in site. Rob, your mallet looks like you can tell orientation by feel. Derek, same for at least one of your mallets. Do you have trouble maintaining orientation or is "feel" sufficient, at least for the handles that are not round. Obviously you do not have trouble or these would not be your favorites, but I almost always use a round mallet at least for use with chisels. Of course now that I am thinking about it, I probably am seeing the entire picture, I just never thought about it; or I would probably have trouble even hitting the handle where I want to.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
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    3,071
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    And not a round mallet in site. Rob, your mallet looks like you can tell orientation by feel. Derek, same for at least one of your mallets. Do you have trouble maintaining orientation or is "feel" sufficient, at least for the handles that are not round. Obviously you do not have trouble or these would not be your favorites, but I almost always use a round mallet at least for use with chisels. Of course now that I am thinking about it, I probably am seeing the entire picture, I just never thought about it; or I would probably have trouble even hitting the handle where I want to.
    The crowned faces and the short squared handle makes striking accuracy easy, almost zen like. The heft helps too. I can choke up and still deliver a fair bit of force with just a firm tap.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  10. #25
    I have a lignum vitae mallet bought from Garrett Wade at least 40 years ago. The head is round and 3 inches or so in diameter and shaped like an apple. The handle is oak or ash and four or five inches long. I don’t know the weight but it is pretty heavy.

    I also have a well used rubber mallet.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    9,492
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    And not a round mallet in site. Rob, your mallet looks like you can tell orientation by feel. Derek, same for at least one of your mallets. Do you have trouble maintaining orientation or is "feel" sufficient, at least for the handles that are not round. Obviously you do not have trouble or these would not be your favorites, but I almost always use a round mallet at least for use with chisels. Of course now that I am thinking about it, I probably am seeing the entire picture, I just never thought about it; or I would probably have trouble even hitting the handle where I want to.
    Andrew, I used to turn round mallets many years ago ... like everyone does, I suspect because they are easy to do. I even have the Blue Spruce carver’s mallet. However, it has been a long time since these were used for joinery. They lack the secure striking and directed energy of a flat face. Round faces always run the risk of a glancing blow. All my mallets and hammers have as much, perhaps more, attention given to the handle ... partly for ergonomics and partly for orientation.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,225
    I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again...love that mallet Rob. Great job from a door knob!

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