try this link
https://www.google.com/search?q=used...hrome&ie=UTF-8
try this link
https://www.google.com/search?q=used...hrome&ie=UTF-8
So I got the power cord wired up yesterday and now I need to replace the belt. I've found the belt online using the part number but I was wondering if there would be any issues with purchasing a belt from an auto parts store provided it's the same size. I'd rather not wait for shipping.
go for it, I would install a segmented or link belt(red with individual links)
at least get a high horsepower belt
good luck
Ron
My personal opinion is not to use automotive belts. They will work but I feel they are stiffer and will vibrate more than a belt designed to work on equipment. If in a hurry you can get a link belt. Usually you can find them locally (although maybe not at an auto parts store.
I decided against the automotive belt at your guys advice. I ended up just ordering the exact one needed on ebay. It was $25 and will be delivered by Tuesday. Thanks for the help.
I buy belts for electric motors ( not automotive) but the ones designed for machines at my local NAPA all the time. Do they not get these type belts at auto stores in the States ?
Nice score. That fence mechanism is the same as on my Grizzly clone and works great, really solid.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
The knives are shot. Should I go with carbide or HSS. Anyone know where to source them?
NAPA will cross reference most any belt to one of theirs but it might be considerably different. I had to get my blades off eBay. The ones listed as OEM online were like $130 since Deltacrap stopped making parts for older machines and gold diggers on eBay are waiting in the shadows. I caught an eBay vendor listing an obsolete automotive part as new with a price 5 times too high. He said good job when I told him how I could see that it was used. Turned him in and eBay did nothing.
Last edited by Bruce King; 09-13-2020 at 9:42 PM.
Ty I buy all my knives from my local sharpening service. They have stock that they cut to the length I need. I buy 18% tungsten or T1. These knives are way better than average high speed steel. Measure the thickness and width of your old knives and match this up. When I owned my Delta ,I used a thinner knife than the ones it had in the head when I bought it. (I am not sure what the thickness was now.) The reason I did this was when I removed the knives there was almost no space to loosen the gib screws more than half a turn.I figured that someone had substituted knives thicker than they should have been at some point.
Mike, I will check with some of the local sharpening services to see if that is something they can do. I did find a couple places online that sold them. From my research and someone earlier in the thread the knives are 3/32" thick and a few of the sellers are selling 1/8" thick. One website had new HSS knives for around $35 and carbide knives for $105, but they'd have to ship from Canada.
The knives that were too thick in my head were more that 1/8" . I know lots of these machines end up with 1/8'' thick knives in them,if you can find the 3/32" go with them. The point I was trying to make besides the size is all HSS is not created equal. The tungsten content really makes a difference in how long they stay sharp. T1 or 18% tungsten is at the top of the heap in HSS. The knives I have used from this steel easily last 2-3 times longer between sharpening than the crap knives that come in most new machines.
Ty,for a source check out Oealla saw and tool.
Hi, I am looking at picking one of these up this weekend if I win the auction. How much do you think it weighs. Can two men pick it up? we have a pickup truck. Thanks