Best Nova Chuck for a Jet 1236

[Allen Seidman]

I am looking at the Nova G3 Bowl Bundle vs Supernova 2 bowl bundle. I understand I need a 1 inch/8TPI fitting.

Is the Supernova2 to big for this jet w a 12 inch swing but ability to turn larger bowls by pivoting the head forward ?

Any advice is appreciated for this newby!

[John K Jordan]

I am looking at the Nova G3 Bowl Bundle vs Supernova 2 bowl bundle. I understand I need a 1 inch/8TPI fitting.

Is the Supernova2 to big for this jet w a 12 inch swing but ability to turn larger bowls by pivoting the head forward ?

Any advice is appreciated for this newby!

I haven't used that lathe but from looking at the specs I think it would handle the SN2. I can say I've used the G3 chucks on a couple of Jet mini lathes with smaller motors (1/2 hp) and they worked fine. I think the SN2 weights about 1/3 more than the G3 so I'm suspecting it will work fine on the 1236 with the larger motor. If the lathe is variable speed starting on a lower speed and then turning it up faster might compensate if you also had a heavy blank mounted.

As for turning larger bowls, even with the head swing you still might be fairly limited by the size of the motor and weight of the lathe. A large bowl blank can be very heavy and while unbalanced it might make the lathe dance around the floor or even over stress it. My PM 3520b weighs close to 4 times the 1236 and even then an out-of-balance piece can be tricky.

I very much prefer the SN2 chuck key (hex key) over the G3 hex key.

I don't see where you put your location in your profile here. Perhaps someone near would let you borrow a SN2 to try. If you lived near me I'd loan one for a test.

JKJ

[Allen Seidman]

Thank you. Someone warned me that the weight of the SN2 may put too much stress on the ball bearings wearing them out quickly. Sound right to you ?

The SN2 Bowl Bundle comes w a larger Cole jaw. I think the G3 comes w a 10 inch Cole Jaw maximum and the SN2 seems to come w a 12 inch. Does a 12 inch Cole jaw got onto a lathe w a 12 inch swing ? My lathe manual says it can handle upto a 16 inch bowl of I turn the faceplate. This my interest in going big IF the lathe can handle it !

Can you see any negative to the SN2 over the G3 ? My goal is not to be very limited w size. Does a bigger chuck mean I can't do smaller bowls ?

So many questions.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I would just go with the SN2. I don't think that will be too heavy for a 12" Jet. Eddie Castelin recommends buying the bigger chuck for small lathes so that if/when you upgrade to a larger lathe, your chuck is a better fit (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOS2s0KNLtk at about the 1 minute mark). I have 5 or 6 SN2s and love them.
Tom

[John K Jordan]

Thank you. Someone warned me that the weight of the SN2 may put too much stress on the ball bearings wearing them out quickly. Sound right to you ?

The SN2 Bowl Bundle comes w a larger Cole jaw. I think the G3 comes w a 10 inch Cole Jaw maximum and the SN2 seems to come w a 12 inch. Does a 12 inch Cole jaw got onto a lathe w a 12 inch swing ? My lathe manual says it can handle upto a 16 inch bowl of I turn the faceplate. This my interest in going big IF the lathe can handle it !

Can you see any negative to the SN2 over the G3 ? My goal is not to be very limited w size. Does a bigger chuck mean I can't do smaller bowls ?

So many questions.

I think the SN2 is a much better chuck than the G3. It's a better chuck than the original SN. The only negative I see is it costs more. I am slowly replacing my SNs and G3s with SN2s.

I have the 12" Cole jaws (sitting unused for maybe 8 years now) and I don't know the diameter when expanded on an SN2 but I could measure if you want. Cole jaws can be useful but there are other ways to hold things that can work better and be more reliable.

The weight would not hurt the bearings. A high weight would put a little more strain on the motor when starting and the belt, but not even close to the strain of a large turning blank mounted in the chuck.

Vibration from an out-of-balance turning will put more strain on the bearings than the weight. Excessive pressure from the tailstock can strain the bearings. Hammering on the end of the lathe spindle, such as when mounting wood on a spur drive or in a cup chuck, can really hurt the bearings. But not a heavier chuck.

In fact, the mass of a larger and heavier chuck will actually tend to smooth out small vibrations and add to the inertia that fights to keep the blank spinning, say in the event of a small catch. (Think "flywheel".)

A series of big catches can stress the bearings and several other parts of the lathe. Some even say a lathe with a swing headstock is less sturdy than one with a fixed or sliding head. If a beginner at turning, you are better off NOT trying to turn large blanks right away since you are far more likely to have catches and big catches before you gain expertise. People have damaged parts of the lathe, toolrest, tools, the shop, and have been injured with big catches on big wood. (Once you gain sufficient experience you should really never get a catch if you are paying attention and not daydreaming.) This is a good argument for sticking to small bowls, say 6-8", until you can reliably and comfortably complete a number of them with no problems. In fact, a number of experts say if you want to develop expertise forget the bowl turning and start with spindle turning. Learn to use a skew and spindle gouge. (I always start new students with the skew chisel.) Spindle turning can teach your arms and eyes the fine tool control that will let you turn anything reliably. It doesn't work the other way. (I can provide references and anecdotes.) People whose goal is to turn large bowls sometimes don't want to hear this.

If you are really intent on turning large bowls, one course of action is to make that a long-term goal. Use the 12" lathe to turn spindles and small things (such as small bowls, boxes, pepper grinders, ornaments, etc.) and get to be the best turner on the planet. Then invest in a larger lathe better suited to larger work. I started with the absolute worst lathe on the planet and learned the basics, went to a Jet 1642 and gained experience turning things from 1/4" up to about 16", then bought a larger lathe (used) and kept the Jet as a second lathe. My current primary lathe is much heavier, has a much more powerful motor, and will easily turn 20", larger if turning outboard.

JKJ

[Bernie Kopfer]

The hex key is so much easier to work with compared to the geared key. I have both and wish I had not purchased the G3 because if the key issue.

[Allen Seidman]

I think the SN2 is a much better chuck than the G3. It's a better chuck than the original SN. The only negative I see is it costs more. I am slowly replacing my SNs and G3s with SN2s.

I have the 12" Cole jaws (sitting unused for maybe 8 years now) and I don't know the diameter when expanded on an SN2 but I could measure if you want. Cole jaws can be useful but there are other ways to hold things that can work better and be more reliable.

The weight would not hurt the bearings. A high weight would put a little more strain on the motor when starting and the belt, but not even close to the strain of a large turning blank mounted in the chuck.

Vibration from an out-of-balance turning will put more strain on the bearings than the weight. Excessive pressure from the tailstock can strain the bearings. Hammering on the end of the lathe spindle, such as when mounting wood on a spur drive or in a cup chuck, can really hurt the bearings. But not a heavier chuck.

In fact, the mass of a larger and heavier chuck will actually tend to smooth out small vibrations and add to the inertia that fights to keep the blank spinning, say in the event of a small catch. (Think "flywheel".)

A series of big catches can stress the bearings and several other parts of the lathe. Some even say a lathe with a swing headstock is less sturdy than one with a fixed or sliding head. If a beginner at turning, you are better off NOT trying to turn large blanks right away since you are far more likely to have catches and big catches before you gain expertise. People have damaged parts of the lathe, toolrest, tools, the shop, and have been injured with big catches on big wood. (Once you gain sufficient experience you should really never get a catch if you are paying attention and not daydreaming.) This is a good argument for sticking to small bowls, say 6-8", until you can reliably and comfortably complete a number of them with no problems. In fact, a number of experts say if you want to develop expertise forget the bowl turning and start with spindle turning. Learn to use a skew and spindle gouge. (I always start new students with the skew chisel.) Spindle turning can teach your arms and eyes the fine tool control that will let you turn anything reliably. It doesn't work the other way. (I can provide references and anecdotes.) People whose goal is to turn large bowls sometimes don't want to hear this.

If you are really intent on turning large bowls, one course of action is to make that a long-term goal. Use the 12" lathe to turn spindles and small things (such as small bowls, boxes, pepper grinders, ornaments, etc.) and get to be the best turner on the planet. Then invest in a larger lathe better suited to larger work. I started with the absolute worst lathe on the planet and learned the basics, went to a Jet 1642 and gained experience turning things from 1/4" up to about 16", then bought a larger lathe (used) and kept the Jet as a second lathe. My current primary lathe is much heavier, has a much more powerful motor, and will easily turn 20", larger if turning outboard.

JKJ

So it looks like I will go w the SN2. Am I hearing that since I should avoid turning really large bowls, maybe I just skip the package w the Cole jaw (if it makes $$$ sense) and add one later as/if needed ?

Does the SN2 come in a version that will fit my 1 inch, 8 TPI lathe spindle ?

Thanks
Allen

[Allen Seidman]

Ok. So I think I will abandon the big kiss t idea w a Cole jaw. The Cole jaw is too big at 12 inches to rise above my lathe bed anyways so I could only use it when I turn the head and from what you say, I have other options.

So... Any idea what the doff is between the 24014 and 23055 ? They both take inserts. And since my lathe does not go into reverse can I still use an IXNS or should I stick w an IDNS for some reason ?

I'm thinking I'll go with a chuck and jaws for now and leave it at that. Any major advice on jaw size ?

Thanks
Allen

[John K Jordan]

So it looks like I will go w the SN2. Am I hearing that since I should avoid turning really large bowls, maybe I just skip the package w the Cole jaw (if it makes $$$ sense) and add one later as/if needed ?

Does the SN2 come in a version that will fit my 1 inch, 8 TPI lathe spindle ?

Thanks
Allen

After buying one, I would not buy another chuck threaded for a specific spindle thread. I prefer to get use the insert type and buy the insert for the specific lathe. That way get another insert to use the chuck with a different lathe. Might be handy if you want to sell the chuck some day.

I bought a big Nova Titan chuck direct threaded for my lathe, no insert needed. That sounded nice but I discovered the direct threaded version didn't let me use a chuck wrench. The inserts have hex flats like a big nut that work with the chuck wrench. I think Nova wants you to use this ''universal spanner wrench" but it sure doesn't fit the Titan well: https://www.amazon.com/71121-Univers.../dp/B07HFN3LJC

Without a way to use a wrench some people insert the chuck key and apply force but that can damage the socket over time. Some people suggest using a big strap wrench or inserting a board between the jaws for leverage but that forces you to remove the work from the chuck - something, for several reasons, I don't do until I'm good and ready. I think using a wrench on the insert flats is the best way to remove a chuck.

If you turn heavy blanks the set screw version of the insert will help keep the chuck from unthreading if the lathe is stopped suddenly, especially if the chuck is not tightened firmly.

I don't see any info on a 24014 model chuck. Teknatool did a minor redesign of the SN2 at some point so maybe that number is the older version.

All SN2 chucks I've bought came with 2" jaws, good for most bowls, platters, lidded boxes, and some sizes of square stock.

Which jaws to get depends a lot on what you want to turn. I think I have all their jaw sets but since I turn a lot of smaller things and spindles so some of my favorite jaws are the various pin jaws (especially the 6026 with additional screws, 20mm, 25mm), 35mm and 45mm, and longnose jaws. With these I can hold a wide variety of sizes of square and rounded stock.
For larger things I use the powergrip jaws and sometimes the 75mm and 100 mm jaws. I find the step jaws mostly useless.

JKJ

[tom lucas]

The SN2 with the standard jaws is a good place to start. Over time you may want more chucks. You will most like want at least a small jaw set at some point to turn small boxes, ornaments, finials, etc. The 2" jaws should handle about any bowl you'd turn on your lathe. Yes, get the insert type with set screw. You never know when you might change lathes. I have the cole jaws but have yet to use them over the 2 or so years I've owned them. But I did add a vacuum chuck (Sooooo useful) and that replaces the cole jaws in many situations.

[Allen Seidman]

Great input everyone. I ordered my chuck last night - arrives Weds. Went w SN2 (insert style) w the 2 inch jaws.

Definately need to look into those vacuum jaws !

[John K Jordan]

Definately need to look into those vacuum jaws !

A vacuum chuck system has several parts: a vacuum pump, an adapter that feeds the pressure through a bearing to the rotating work, and a chuck that actually grips the part. You can make some of these pieces yourself.

When you are ready to look at vacuum chuck, there are plenty of options.

This guy has a good reputation for an inexpensive system. Unfortunately, his web site seems to indicate he can't get the pumps at the moment but it might be worth checking.
https://www.frugalvacuumchuck.com/

Joe Woodworker deals mostly in vacuum pressing and clamps but he has a great section of vacuum chucking for lathes, much of it you can make yourself:
https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneer...umchucking.htm

A book by Doc Green might be useful - he covers many ways to hold things on a lathe,
Fixtures and Chucks for Woodturning: Everything You Need to Know to Secure Wood on Your Lathe:
https://www.amazon.com/Fixtures-Chuc.../dp/1565235193

JKJ