[OP]
Member
I see a lot of videos of people making wooden handplanes and I want to go this path as well. The problem I see in all these videos is this. They build them using metal planes and power tools. I never see anyone actually using them though they claim they are better and easier in many ways.Am I stupid for wanting to remove my metal planes and just use woodies? I probably didn't word that right but you get the gist.
Contributor
Use whatever works for you. Woodies were made without power tools for centuries. It just takes a little more effort and skill.
[OP]
Member
My main point I guess is, will I someday tire of the woodies and start grabbing the Stanley's again and if so, why?
Contributor
I like wooden planes for heavy work, like dimensioning rough boards with a jack and try plane. A bit lighter and less apparent friction. But for smoothing I prefer a metal plane due to the ease of adjustment.
Very few do the rough work by hand, so all that's left is essentially smoothing. And if that's all you're doing then you probably are going to gravitate to metal planes. Plus, wooden planes require more tuning and care, not a big deal if you use planes frequently, but most don't.
None of this is to say that wooden smoothers don't work well.
Contributor
I use wooden planes almost exclusively in my furniture work (the only iron plane that sees any regular use is a LN #9), and have done so for the better part of two decades. Those same wooden planes are used, along with other hand tools, to make other tools as well including planes. Here's a peek at my main tool chest with most of my users, and the tool shelf which holds a few actual 18th century bench planes which get a respectful taste of wood from time to time. Also, some of the hand tools that I've made entirely with hand tools and wooden planes.
20200902_092203.jpg20200902_092214.jpg20191228_174052.jpg
It is entirely a personal choice as to which style of plane to use. I do recommend trying out a wooden plane and sticking with it for a while as, like anything, it takes a little while to get used to the tool and to become competent in its use. I think a lot of people give up in frustration after they try to adjust one the first couple of times.
Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.
Contributor
My use of woodies is pretty much limited to molding and rabbet planes. The enjoyment of this doesn't seem to grow old.Originally Posted by Richard Hutchings
Compared to my Stanley/Bailey planes my two coffin smoothers are a bit finicky to set up.
Coffin Smoothers.jpg
So far getting a fine shaving from a coffin smoother has been beyond my abilities. The tactile feel of woodies is different than a metal plane. That could be what is appealing to some who prefer wood bodied planes.
Maybe my hands are too used to using something with a tote, knob and onboard blade adjusters to appreciate my coffin smoothers. For now they just sit on a shelf collecting dust.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
Add me to the list of woodie users for the rough work. Smoothing is a wash, sometimes yes sometime no. Both metal and wood stock planes have their use.
ken
Member
What you describe might be common, or not. I donīt know. But there are for sure wooden plane users.
I started my woodworking venture by restoring a no 4 plane that had a missing tote. Then I used that plane to build my first wooden smoother. Since then the no 4 have seen very little use, but I have built my self a collection of wooden planes, that are my only users. Jack, Try, rabbet, block, smoothing, router, shooting and dovetail planes. And spokeshaves. And a couple of more because planemaking is fun. The point is I make those planes to fill a need and use them. I have no opinion on if they are better or worse than metal planes but I couldnt afford buying a set of planes of the same quality. And I donīt miss having an adjuster, since using a hammer is easy and intuitive.
My suggestion is for you to start building a plane that you need, and therefore will use. Make it as good and precise as you possibly can, and then tune it until it really works good for its purpose. Not just "good for a woodie", but so good that it makes another plane of that type/size unnecessary.
Good luck with the planemaking!
[OP]
Member
You can send one of those useless things to me!
Contributor
I use my woodies almost exclusively for my furniture builds. I have a joiner, try and smoother plane for that work and use wooden rebate, plow, dado and moving filister planes for joinery tasks. My wooden planes seem to fit or feel better in my hands (softer edges, less ouch-spots), they are lighter and I don't fall into the "heavier planes plow through better" camp, they have less places to rust (here in central Texas that is a consideration) and I like the way that wooden planes feel when sliding across the timber. I have become used to tapping the iron to get what I want and it does not take long to get used to do so. It is kind of like sharpening - when it is time to do it, then do it and keep the adjusting hammer laid out for an easy and quick reach. I was experiencing some inconsistency in my attempts to set my new coffin smoother for a fine-fine cut. Steve Voigt reminded me to check the bottom of the plane for "flat" and how to correct "out-of-flat" and I now have consistent results in my tapping adjustments. My coffin smoother is a #3 size and I do have an excellent working LN #4 set up for smoothing. Both smoothers tend to get used where they fit best.
David
Contributor
Most of my "woodies" have an iron frame....Ohio Tool Co. 035, Sargent No. 3416 (jack plane) Stanley No. 28 and No. 31. There is an Auburn Tool Co. pair that do not have the frames....Auburn No. 181 Skewed Rebate, and a 22" long jointer. The is also a G. Roseboom 1/4" plow plane....from 1864. When space allows the LONG arms room...works very nicely cutting grooves for drawer bottoms...however, it was more for doing T & G joints as part of a Match set. has no set-able depth stop.
Contributor
Richard, I have also had similar experience as Robert. I've used a jack with a heavily cambered iron for heavy work, a coffin smoother for medium work, and a try or jointer for jointing edges. They all slide with less friction than metal planes (you have to oil or wax the metal ones to get the same sensation).
For very fine shavings, a no. 4 or no. 3 is what I've been using.
I've a Mathieson wooden smoother that does a really good job, but for those last bits of reversing grain, my metal smoothers get me to that last point.
Contributor
The third coast craftsman has a good video about a wooden smoother and Jack plane that he made. He bought a hardware kit from Lee valley which isn't a bad way to start.
Contributor
The only woodie I have that doesn't get used is a jointer, and that's because I got it (as a present) without a wedge, and I've been a slacker. I made a krenov style smoother a few years ago, and that's still one of my favorite planes to use.
At some point, I'd like to make a half set of hollows and rounds, we'll see if that ever happens.
~mike
happy in my mud hut
Contributor
I made some wood planes and use them, but find them harder to adjust than iron planes. At the time I made them, money was tight and a shop made wood jointer was a lot less expensive then purchasing an iron jointer.
They don't get much use now days - just now and then.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
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