Contributor
I’ve got two woodies, an old Sandusky jointer and Old Street smoother.* I would use them a lot more but moving from Kansas back to Texas the dry air really did a number on them. I’ve been working on getting the blades narrower. Had them where they would just about fit tightly and then we hit a drought. I really enjoy using them.
*had an Old Street fore or jack (can’t remember) that was set up as a panel plane. Sold it to a member here and instantly regretted it.
[OP]
Member
Speaking of regret, I sold my BU Jack. Honestly it didn't get much use and I didn't see where it was any better than my Stanley BD. But I wish I still had it, what a dope.
Member
I like using a wood plane for initial work on rough-cut boards. The lack of weight doesn't matter as much when you're just working on getting the bandsaw marks off quickly, and it's definitely an energy-saver.
Member
Woodies feel fantastic, metal planes are more pragmatic. The quality of the end results is the same in capable hands.
The major issue with wooden planes for me is that a full sharpening cycle (remove the blade, sharpen, reassemble, readjust) takes more effort. While all my woodies have a double iron, some don’t have the convenient screw to attach the chip breaker. Tapping with a hammer doesn’t limit precision, quite the contrary, but it’s definitely not as fast and predictable.
I use a wooden scrub and a jack I tweaked from old worn wooden smother and foreplane. I don’t really enjoy using my metal jack planes for coarse work, bevel up or down. They don’t require fine setting or frequent sharpening.
I have small smoothers that I really enjoy, but I prefer the wide 4 1/2 most of the time, as I feel sharpness and fine setting are a must there.
I also prefer metal jointer to French wooden ones, where the blade is located in the middle (as opposed to 1/3 front in UK/US style), with the tote far back. I like my hand close to the blade, and close to the center of these heavy planes.
As a conclusion, the feeling of wooden planes on straight adequate woods (cherry, chestnut, peer, beech, oak...) is a pleasure. Maybe like listening to a vinyl disc compared to a CD.
Contributor
When all I had was a smoother and a block plane, I needed a jack so I made a wooden one. I instantly fell in love. Then I needed a fore/scrub and I found a No.26 transitional jack for $10. Man oh man you can hog off wood for days and never get tired with that thing. Then I needed a jointer, so again, I made one. 26” because, why put limits on it! It is my favorite plane.
Every time I pick up my metal No. 4 I think “ugh, what a bear to push…. Where’s my stick of wax?... why is this thing so heavy for such a small plane??”
Adjusting woodies takes a little practice, but I do prefer it because the setting absolutely will not change no matter what you do until you tell it to change. I find they can be incredibly precise. You can’t adjust while planing, but you can’t with a Norris adjuster either. My rabbet is an unfenced woodie and dead easy to use. I also made a wooden grooving plane that is tons of fun.
As for seeing woodies made with power tools, here’s my philosophy: If I’m making a project, I want to have fun and do it slow and use hand tools for gosh darn everything (except thickness planing when there’s a LOT to take off). But if I’m making a TOOL, I’m less concerned about it – I just want the tool. So I’ll use power tools if they are more convenient and if they are accurate enough (my power tools are more contractor quality than furniture building quality).
Member
Not as much as I regret missing that sale.Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins
Member
Wood body planes have a hidden strength - the bodies don't rust. As my hands begin to creak, the feel and weight of woodies has become my preference.
Member
Jim,
+1. Any metal plane heaver than a Stanley #5 with an OEM cutter has become over the years too heavy and the sole too sticky to use for more than a pass or two.
A wood body Jack with a waxed sole is a delight to use, it's almost like they push them self. I have Jacks from Steve V and Philly Plane to go with a few Stanley #5's. Anytime it is more than just a couple of passes the wood stocks are used. I also have several small shop made smoothing planes that can be used with either hand in either direction that are too handy for words.
4Planes.jpg
I don't use the longer ones much, other wood stock planes with wider cutters are handier but the two small ones come out to play often.
There is also a full complement of metal planes from a #!, missing a #2, up thru the #8 available. The long ones do not get used very often and when they do it usually is quickly back on the shelf.
ken
Contributor
Love the weight and feel of the woodies but, they are generally harder to adjust...
Jerry
Contributor
Hmmm, sometimes, one just has to make their own..
shavings.jpg
jack plane...
China Jack.jpg
Double iron, with wedge, Traditional Chinese style....both hands behind the iron, both index fingers alongside the iron. Took about a Saturday to make...
Contributor
Jim,
+1. Any metal plane heaver than a Stanley #5 with an OEM cutter has become over the years too heavy and the sole too sticky to use for more than a pass or two.
A wood body Jack with a waxed sole is a delight to use, it's almost like they push them self
4Planes.jpg
I don't use the longer ones much, other wood stock planes with wider cutters are handier but the two small ones come out to play often.
There is also a full complement of metal planes from a #!, missing a #2, up thru the #8 available. The long ones do not get used very often and when they do it usually is quickly back on the shelf.
ken
Those planes look great, and since they are similar to Kanna they made me think of something. I have a couple of cheapish Kanna around and they are very handy for tasks where you have to plane out of position (not flat down on the bench or in the vise), especially planing the sides of large pieces. I find it awkward to use a standard bench plane on a vertical surface. The form factor of a Kanna is great for stuff like that, and also for things like shooting long grain edges on the bench.
Member
Robert,
You hit it exactly. They are great for what could be awkward to do with a metal bench plane.
ken
[OP]
Member
Are those mahogany? After looking around, I now think they are jatoba which make way more sense.Jim,
+1. Any metal plane heaver than a Stanley #5 with an OEM cutter has become over the years too heavy and the sole too sticky to use for more than a pass or two.
A wood body Jack with a waxed sole is a delight to use, it's almost like they push them self
4Planes.jpg
I don't use the longer ones much, other wood stock planes with wider cutters are handier but the two small ones come out to play often.
There is also a full complement of metal planes from a #!, missing a #2, up thru the #8 available. The long ones do not get used very often and when they do it usually is quickly back on the shelf.
ken
Last edited by Richard Hutchings; 09-03-2020 at 9:05 AM.
Member
Richard,
Pretty close, they are made from Sapele AKA Sapele Mahogany.
ken
[OP]
Member
I was thinking maybe Sapele but I didn't think it was hard enough for planes. After a quick Janka search it looks like it's about twice as hard as Honduras and African Mahogany which are pretty low on the scale. How are they holding up? Oh, and where did you buy the stock?
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