I use a Wiha torque screwdriver. I don't want to mess around with Carbide pieces and 5,000 rpm
Again, Watch an insane, off the shelf, freak of nature, machine insanity level parts and tolerances and feel you need to hyper elevate your wee bitty little part cutter head. Perfectly fine... the simple fact is you rarely even in aerospace see people torquing down inserts. The output is the qualifier. The torque usually has nothing to do with it.
I use this little guy from Park Tools. It's easy on the wrist and allows me to get to cutters without removing the cutter head (that's a thing on two sided planers).
I've never done anything with these inserts, but thought of something that might apply. A Stihl chainsaw can be completely torn down, and put back together with a T27 T-handle TORX wrench. The long ones are made so when you feel the shaft bending/twisting, you have reached the desired torque for that fastener.
You use the handle to break a fastener loose, and for final tightening, but for running it in, and out, you just spin the shaft between you thumbs, and index fingers. It goes almost as fast as a power driver.
These days, if I'm rebuilding a chainsaw, I use a Milwaukee 12v impact driver to tear one down, but still use the T-handle wrench to put one back together, so I don't have to worry about over-torquing any fastener.
I really like these.
https://www.wihatools.com/torx-tools...torx-t-handles
You may want to verify in your manual the correct torx bit to use. In the Powermatic 20" planer manual they specify a T25P bit. What's odd is that my Powermatic jointer just calls it a "star point" screwdriver and doesn't provide any torque specs. In the planer manual they clearly say " Use the provided screwdriver with the T25Psocket adaptor to remove the knife insert screw.See Figure 20. NOTE: A T25 adaptor or drivercan round out the screw head recess. Alwaysuse a T25-Plus driver or adaptor" and "IMPORTANT: Maximum torque fortightening the screws is 45 to 55 inchpounds (3.75 to 4.6 foot pounds)". Both manuals say "Before installing each screw, lightly coat thescrew threads with machine oil and wipe offany excess" which would impact the torque value vs a dry screw.
TorxPlusDifference.png
I know you said quality but the Harbor Freight one works fine for me. I would think any impact bits would be good enough.
How would I go about calibrating a cheap torque wrench?
it seems to me that I could do it by simply making a 2” round thing, putting some cord around it and suspending a 45lb weight. If it doesn’t click at 44lbs and does click at 45lbs, I’m good.
There is a YouTube video floating around showing that the HF torque wrenches (at least the 1/2" size), are as accurate as most any higher quality wrench, within 4% which is plenty considering not using a torque wrench as suggested by some will likely result in a 20-30% error or more. Personally I have a 3/8" and a 1/2" Craftsman DigiTorque wrench and a 1/4" HF clicker set and locked just to tighten the cap bolts on my Jeep's U-Joints. HF claims this little checker is good to within +/-2%. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...ter-63917.html
NOW you tell me...
I think the problem with most HF tools is over the long haul. Right out of the box most are most likely very accurate (although their QC is one where the customer is the inspector). But they wear quicker. For something like this, that will be done rarely I'm sure something from HF would work just fine. Personally my plan is to use my cordless drill to remove the screws and after cleaning everything up I'll use it to put the screws back in. I'll just put it in screwdriver mode and set the clutch to a very low setting. From there it's just a matter of using the torque driver to set them.
My Minimax J/P was supplied with a small T-handle torque wrench:
Fernco sells a decent quality self relaesing tee handle torque wrench preset at 60 inch pound which is too high. Maybe it could be reset?
Bil lD.
https://www.fernco.com/products/flex...orque-wrenches
Took me a few days to remember but WERA is the brand I have heard of for quality self realeasing torque drovers.
Bill D.
https://products.wera.de/en/torque_t...nt_models.html