Routing and jointing of rails & stiles of cabinet doors

[Tom Wall]

Yeah, cope and stick is the industry standard for a reason. I mill my shaker rail and stile doors with a dado set. Double passes makes centering easy and the cutters don't turn into blunt instruments after the first few parts.

Since I'm going to rabbet my plywood to fit into groove, could be any thickness, could I use a straight cut bit to cut groove and then cut out tongue?

[Jim Dwight]

You may find the straight cut bit groove a bit rough, my spiral bit left a rough finish (but it is dull) but for a trial I don't see any issue. A straight cut bit can also do the tongue but I would use a bigger one, only because I would make the groove 1/4-3/8 deep and a quarter inch bit wouldn't work in one pass unless you go a little under 1/4. But for a visual test that should work. For a real door, I would want 3/8 depth or more.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Why not use 1/4" BB instead of the 1/2"? Then you could cut tenon the same size as thickness of panel. On drawer fronts, since most likely they are false fronts, place a shim between drawer front and box where handle goes. Instead of 1/2" BB, look at 1/2" birch plywood. Save you a bunch of money, plus a lot of sanding.