Tage Frid workbench

[Tom Trees]

On the contraire, you could always use hide glue for either the top bearers or the bottom.
I think my legs might be a bit long and haven't glued up those double tenons yet, most parts need a shaving or two, and through tenons are still proud.
I've left the feet oversize to account for any floor discrepancies, just for handyness sake really .
I'll definitely have gotten to grips with the shoulder plane, I've only been using it for this project, and glad of the work,as you cant stretch wood.

I haven't firmly decided where I am going to cut mortices for the long strechers, and only then could I decide one way or another...
It might depend on how valuable your shelf height would be, to decide on which of the bearers gets hot hide glue, that's assuming it could be dismantled

Tom

[Josko Catipovic]

Tail vise has really worked out well, but I did make all the moving/mating parts out of black locust. The rest of the bench is rock maple. In hindsight, that was a good call.
Maybe it's the extra dimensions and the resultant weight, but I never had stability problems or issues with hand-planing wood on it. I also remember the top is way too heavy for one person to lift off. No issues with top separating/moving after 30+ years. I do joint off a few shavings at 'yearly' cleanup and flood the top with BLO.
One hint would be to get the 3/8" threaded rod in stainless steel, as it's less stretchy than the commonly-found variety. I replaced mine after a few years, and it made a significant difference. That shoulder vise puts a lot of load on that threaded rod, and you don't want to gap to open, as shavings and stuff will fall in.

[Bill Hays]

Thanks Josco! Great advice. I have a good bit of Osage Orange in stock and may make the some of the moving part out of that though it is pretty abrasive. I would only use it for both surfaces. You said you made the top 2" wider. That's what I call fine tuning.

[Bill Hays]

Andrew, Josko - are the dog holes on your bench angled as Frid suggests? Do you use metal dogs? Bill

[Tom Trees]

Bill, I have never seen anyone who made their dog holes 90 degrees, I believe that the Klausz plans, are at 88, but the Frid ones could be 87?
The tailvice will have them canted in the opposite direction to bear down the timber flat onto the bench. so both canted towards each other.
Have a look at these two from Cosman, he has also another traditional Scandi bench, but no specific videos on it.
It would be on his older productions.
Two recent one's he has built might be of interest, there's no traditional tailvice though.
Rob has mentioned this,but maybe its on another video called "the better bench dog"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqhYuMq8_ko
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-3c5UNgDBo

Here's another video which might be of interest, although it is a Scandi/Roubo design.
In some update that Carter made,which I can't find, he mentioned that he made his vice screw is too high, and it gets in the way of the plane of the top.
Just in case you are not buying metal hardware.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b819B3FJZME

Tom

[mike stenson]

Yea, my dogs are about 3º off of 90 (it's been a couple decades almost). The only 90º holes in my top are for holdfasts. I have both metal and wood dogs, to be honest... I haven't used the metal dogs in years.

[Josko Catipovic]

Yes, my dog holes are square and angled as Frid suggests. I make laminated maple dogs for the bench. I don't hit them that often, but...

[Andrew Seemann]

My dog holes are angled somewhere around 4 or 5 degrees. I think Frid's plan shows 4 degrees. The exact amount probably doesn't matter, just that they angle towards what you are clamping so the dogs don't ride up.

I use wooden dogs exclusively, since I have a knack for hitting the dogs while planing. That is why I made the dog holes about 13/16 wide, so I can easily make more dogs from regular 3/4 stock as needed, between occasionally hitting them and my (furry) dogs liking to chew on them if I leave them out.

[Bill Hays]

Thanks to you all for this very useful information. Bill

[Clifford McGuire]

I built the Klaus version, wow, almost 26 years ago. I studied The Workbench book before deciding which one to build. The dimensions are an exact replica except a bit shorter in length (because of material availability) and height ('cause I'm short). It's hard maple and cherry. I used a piece of birdseye in the front for visual interest.

It's been through 3 moves. I've flattened and refinished the top 3 times. I refinished the base this year. Both vises get used constantly and continue to work well. This year I added two holes for holdfasts. Otherwise it's the same as the day it was finished.

Some don't, but I find the tool tray indispensable. I just checked and the dog holes are angled a couple degrees.

What would I do different? I wouldn't have waited so long to add the holdfasts. Maybe storage underneath? Although I like the openness and I have enough storage space, for now. I will add a removable Moxon vise sometime soon. I've started hand cut dovetails (over 30 boxes so far this year) and I have a bad back. The extra 5 or 6 inches of height will be nice.

Some pics. Let me know if you have any questions.

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[Mark e Kessler]

Have you considered a Roubo design? I personally do not like the Scandi style vise arrangement, the shoulder vice is always in the way and the tail vise is difficult to make well and both of those areas are weak and prone to “vise droop” and it is somewhat lite weight. I am well aware that this bench style has served many craftsmen well over the years, i just feel that the Roubo style has more benefits especially when the benchcrafted hardware is used. A few of the benefits are, you can work on the top surface where the tail vise is (Clamp, hammer...) the top is flush with the legs. The split top version is very handy, I didn’t think I would like it at first but it is growing on me...


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[John Jardin]

Josko,
I'm an old New Bedford boy.
In addition to the 3/4 round holes, I also ran a 3/4 drill thru the square portion of the angled dog holes.
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