I’m so confused!

[Jim Dwight]

I made one entire kitchen with a router including a router table - home made. A shaper will allow single cut raised panels and has many other benefits but they are not necessary for a hobby shop. My current router table had a home made screw adjustable lift and the top raises for bit changes. The top is a sink cutout backed by plywood and edged with maple. I do not use a router insert either. The motor in my router table is a Porter Cable 7528. It has a lot of power, at least for a router. I have also used one of my PC 690s to make raised panel doors. I had to do the panel raising in 3 or 4 cuts but it cut the cope and stick in one pass.

I had a router table capability in the extension table of my last table saw but I did not like that because it seemed like I needed the table saw when the router table was set up or vice versa. If I was more organized it would have undoubtedly worked better.

The normal router advice is very sound in my opinion. Buy a mid sized router set with a fixed base and a plunge base. It is probably best to go to a local retailer and handle them to see what you like. All the major brands have these sets, Bosch, DeWalt, Porter Cable etc.. The Bosch seems to get the best reviews but I like my Porter Cables just fine and others love their DeWalts. I noticed several of the plunge bases now have dust collection hook ups which my old PC690 lacks (I think the current 890s have it). Mid sized routers will work fine in a router table and with two bases you have the option to mount the fixed base to the router table and then just move the router between bases as needed. The advantage of the mid sized is it works well for both hand held and for router table use. I like my little Bosch Colt for light duty and my big PC 7528 for the router table but I could do what these routers do with the 690s. They are heavier than the Colt and less powerful than the 7528 but they are better all around routers.

[Bill Dufour]

What size and quality of wood do you have access to in your country? I paid $200 for my used grizzly 1.5 hp shaper with a 1/2, 3/4 and 1/4 router collet spindles. If all you can buy is short smaller wood a router may make more sense.
Bil lD

[Ron Citerone]

I would look for a cheap craigslist router table to start. If you upgrade you can probably sell it for what you pay. My 2 cents.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I’ve been trying my hand at cabinet making; not for profit. Just for our house. I’ve only recently gotten into woodworking.

I was going to buy a nice router table setup with a good fence (leaning towards the Jessem because Incra has a 4 month wait). But when getting the table, fence, router, hold-downs the price came in at around $2200. WHOA!

So, I then started looking at a 3hp Grizzly shaper with power feed (PM brand). It came in around $2000. I know the bits are considerably more, but I don’t need many; at least right now. Just maybe a rail/stile to start with.

I am suffering from analysis paralysis big time! I have room in my shop. I have the 220 available. Why not get the shaper? I’m really just learning to woodwork; retired (I was “tired” already).

Thoughts and considerations?
bob

If you want to try your hand at cabinet making, then make your own router table. You will use most of the skills you will need in cabinet making. The Milwaulke router has a feature that allows for height adjustment above the table. "Router Razor" works with most plunge routers, and isn't overly expensive. Look for a thread "A Few Shop Made Tools" that features a triple router table for door making (rails, stiles, and raised panels.) Once you have set the height for rail and stile bits, you won't be adjusting them till you change to a different thickness of stock. Using a router, you will need to raise bit to cut panels, or have an adjustable fence

[mike stenson]

Yes. It's not terribly difficult to make a really nice router table, with an excellent fence (FWW #144, I think has the entire article on Pat Warners micro adjustable router table fence edit: Yes, I just went and pulled it out and confirmed it Oct 2000).

[Prashun Patel]

I was in the same boat as you a few years back and opted for a router table. A router has been a versatile option for me. Allows you to take the tool to the wood when you need to.

I am glad I bought - not built my table. I own the incra fence and it’s amazing. Especially for cabinet doors that require some jointing.

People generally recommend that you can build a better one than you can buy, but few of them have used the incra fence system.

[Bob Hardin]

What kind of table saw do you have? If it has a 27" deep (front to back) cast iron table, there are several different cast iron router table extension wings available at reasonable cost.

I purchased the Bench Dog extension from Rockler, and Incra's version of the Jessem Mast-R-Lift-II-R that fits Rockler router table openings. The table is in stock at $350, and the lift is in stock at $400. The Bench Dog extension comes with a good fence. Note the Incra version of the Mast-R-Lift-II has steel throat plates that are held in place magnetically, and can be removed/replaced without tools. The Jessem version uses plastic throat plates that require the included custom pin spanner wrench to remove/replace. There is even a guide-bushing-compatible throat plate for the Incra version. Both brands of this lift grip a wide variety of router motors without additional, extra-$ adapters.

If this will be your first and only router for a while, I would suggest a 2.25 HP router, rather than a 3HP one, since the former is much easier to also use out of the table, hand-held. If you can only afford a router with one base, get a plunge router (that is compatible with the lift). But a fixed base router is much easier to control for non-plunging jobs.

I have the Milwaukee 5616-24 kit with 2.25 HP variable speed router, fixed and plunge bases, and a carrying case. It is in stock at Home Depot for $275.

This setup works very well for me, in my shop. I don't have room for a separate router table.

So, with the above, you have a cast iron router table, an excellent lift and router with two bases for $1025.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

I have a hammer k4 sliding table saw. Not sure if I can attach a router extension.

[Bob Hardin]

Thx for all the great input. I know you are all passionate about your opinions; that’s why I posted. I love the common sense passion. I really wanted the incra system but can’t wait up to 4 months for it. I will look into plans for building my own table. Still need to invest in the fence, lift etc.

[Richard Coers]

Spending $2,200 for a router table and fence system is crazy. You will be doing woodwork, right? Make your own system. I worked at least 35 years before buying an Incra fence. I've always made my own table and leg or cabinet system to support it. I make my own router insert from scrap polycarbonate. Rail and style shaper set from Freud is around $250, router bit set $130. Personally I don't mind saving $120 to do a job.

[Jared Sankovich]

I still dont understand the general dislike for shapers in the home shop / hobby demographic.

IMHO Buy the biggest shaper you can fit in you shop (or can power) Ive never heard anyone wish for a smaller shaper.

[Jim Matthews]

I am suffering from analysis paralysis big time! I have room in my shop. I have the 220 available. Why not get the shaper? I’m really just learning to woodwork; retired (I was “tired” already).

Thoughts and considerations?
bob

Search the Neanderthal Haven forum.

I did a similar calculus when starting out.

Using "The New Yankee workshop" inventory as a template, my first side table would have cost $250 in materials, $13,000 in equipment.

Before investing in power tools, consider a training course in basic handling. It will be obvious after a week which tools you enjoy using.

That tingly sensation in your scalp is your latent Super Power : " Common sense".

[Jim Becker]

I'm late to comment, but a decent router, especially one with "native" above table height adjustment, is the start of a solution that lets you tackle your project now and have a lot more time to figure out what your "ultimate" needs are for your shop. You absolutely can mill stock using a piece of plywood with a hole in it and a clamped on board for a fence. It's not pretty, but it works. The happy medium is to simply build a little nicer table setup and leave the fancy fence setup for a future acquisition. And honestly, I've been happy with a simple fence for two decades now. I've never felt the need for fancy for that part, especially since I always run test pieces anyway. Above table height adjustment, however. I'm all in.

[Dave Sabo]

I still dont understand the general dislike for shapers in the home shop / hobby demographic.

IMHO Buy the biggest shaper you can fit in you shop (or can power) Ive never heard anyone wish for a smaller shaper.

Because tooling is more expensive and less readily available. They are also less versatile for home DIYer and hobbyist. I think another reason is a router table/ cabinet is a badge of honor for the woodworker. When’s the lasT time you saw someone show their homemade tricked out shaper on here ?

Sure the bigger torque potential of a shaper is better than the biggest router/table , but most hobbyists aren’t making raised panels very often or at all.

If your in to fancy fences like INCRA , etc... the domestic shaper isn’t going to excite you either.

[Andy D Jones]

I have a hammer k4 sliding table saw. Not sure if I can attach a router extension.

Well, then a nice Hammer F3 shaper would match your slider!

Or you may need a separate router table.

As others have said, you can make your own wooden top (and functional fence).

A fence can be pretty simple to start with (a board and a couple of clamps, as already mentioned.) But ease of adjustment and dust collection provisions are nice to have (and can also be home-made, with more effort and ingenuity).

Working in your favor with a router table, there is no need (or possibility) to ensure the fence is "parallel" to the circular router bit. If you use a miter gauge, that would make it important to keep the fence parallel to the miter slots, but otherwise it does not matter. This is why many users use a sled/guide that rides on/along the router table fence, instead of a miter gauge.

One minor nit with routers that have "above the table" depth adjustment capability: most do not have a convenient (if any) means to lock the depth adjustment. I've heard they can move due to vibration during use, but I have no experience with relying upon one in a table. I'd rather use a good lift.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[ChrisA Edwards]

Well, then a nice Hammer F3 shaper would match your slider!

Or you may need a separate router table.

I have a Hammer F3 Shaper and it's great, but I still go to my router table most of the time.

I made my first router table out of a sheet of 3/4" MDF, layered to form a 1.5" top and then stuck laminate on it. You can buy router plate inserts pretty cheap and then I used an Incra Fence, which is now hanging on the wall gathering dust (i.e. it's for sale).

I had this for about 8 years and when I got for seriously into hobby woodworking, I bought the Woodpeckers router table complete ($1300). Well I soon realized the stand was bit of a waste of space and so build myself a simple cabinet.

Later I added an Incra Fence to my Sawstop and in the process, put a router table on the right end of my table saw.

I have the Woodpeckers and Jessum Mast Lift II lifts. Of the two, I prefer the Jessum, but both do what they are advertised to do.

I wouldn't be without a router table. I could easily live without the Shaper.