Do I need a shoulder plane?

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I have 2 - a large and small LN. Lovely tools. Don’t use them on every project but often enough to be glad I have them.

[Derek Cohen]

The one that gets the most use from me - used on every build - is the Veritas Small (1/2”), followed by the Veritas Medium (3/4”). I really love the lightness and ergonomics of the Small. It is wide enough for just about all rebates and shoulders. The Medium has more heft, which is helpful in particularly hard woods.

I do have the Large (1 1/4”) as well, but it rarely is needed.

The LN rebate block plane is often considered by some for rebates or cheeks, but it not a good choice as too wide for the former, and I do not like planes for cheeks, in the case of the latter. I use it to square/fine tune the inside corners of drawer cases, and here it excels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Aaron Rosenthal]

I am curious how the shoulder plane is fouling your tenons. Are you using it for the shoulders or the cheeks? I use one on both but it is generally the 1-1/4" wide one if it wanders to cheek tuning. Depending on the size of the tenon a broad chisel can work better for cheeks.

Ah, Glen, I’m hoisted by the petard of my own unthinking item, the tenon.
I SHOULD have said “for example, tenons.....”.
I’m doing doors to 2 cabinets and my M&T tenons were the things that spawn nightmares, mainly because I needed to correct my hand sawing. I’m redesigning the project doors, but that’s not to issue here.
I read carefully what Derek posted and did a search about the skewed rabbet plane, and the shoulder planes.
I concluded that, going back and reading the posts, all the planes are useful in their way, and what I don’t use in a year, I’ll reassess.

[Jim Matthews]

On smaller projects I'll use my new Ron Bontz tenon saw - a thing of beauty to look at and to use - and I'll cut to the line. If the tenon needs to be shaped because my cut was off, then a chisel is the choice.

Attachment 439514

Stealth gloat.

[Jim Matthews]

While the mortice and tenon may be the strongest joint for applications like doors, windows and bedframes it is needlessly complicated for most home use furniture.

It rose to prominence mainly in conjunction with drawbored pegs, for mechanical advantage.

After three years struggling with the same process I now cut either half laps or bridle joints instead of M&T, where possible.

If the end grain of the joint is objectionable, edge banding with the same material (chamfered or 1/4 round to the glue line) absolved many sins.

There are *four* surfaces in mortice and tenon joints that must be aligned to the same plane with the all the other mortice and tenon joints in the assembly.

Half laps are dead simple to get uniform and planar if your bench is flat.

http://imgur.com/gallery/p5VoVvN

[Phil Mueller]

I have the LV medium and use it for a number of things...rarely for tenon shoulders. As some have mentioned, other ways to do something are closer at hand. Well, a while back I decided to sharpen, set and leave my shoulder plane in arms reach. I found I use it a lot. Sometimes when I would normally grab a block plane, chisel, or file/rasp. I guess I found when it’s readily available, it gets used.

[Don Dorn]

I have a LV small and a LN Large. A waste of money for me as I haven't used either for years.

[lowell holmes]

Of course you need a shoulder plane, the difference between a man and a boy is the price of his toys.

I have one.

[Jack Frederick]

I have the large LN and have found it falling to hand quite regularly. Could I use another plane, yes, but the mass of the LN has come in handy. Certainly depends upon the job.

[Charles Guest]

I bought my shoulder plane years ago, the same day I threw out all my hair shirts.

I love it. Wouldn't be without it.

[Jerry Olexa]

Good answer..I agree

Aaron,

Short answer, Nope. Longer it can be handy but so can a rabbit plane or a chisel or a Stanley 10 1/2 or a 140 block as well as a router plane and the list goes on.

Do I use my shoulder plane? Sometimes but not often, in other words there are a lots of ways to do the same job.

ken

[Mike Allen1010]

Are use my shoulder plane all the time particularly for trimming the long shoulder on table tops that will have a breadboard end. For me, I use the fenced rabbit to rough out the bulk of material shy of the shoulder lay outline and then the shoulder plane to trim exactly to the knife edge for a nice straight, consistent shoulder. I also prefer the shoulder plane (versus a chisel) for trimming the inside/non-show shoulder of tenons/bridal joints in doors, frame & panel construction etc.

Although not exactly the same, I also like a rabbit plane for cleaning up the shoulder For raised panels and cleaning up rabbits and moldings etc. Love the Lee Nielsen fenced, skew blade rabbit block plane and also the straight edged block plane for these purposes.

[Bill Yacey]

I use a shoulder plane for cleaning up dados.

[James Pallas]

It depends on the work you do. It’s been mentioned. Where the shoulder plane shines is end grain work. A lot more of that work was done in the past. Bread board ends, mitered bridle joints, window sash, longer M&T joints on full size doors. I have an LN medium to use in those cases where I need to work the full length of a shoulder. If it’s just a little hump that needs work than my 75 is just the ticket. My medium is a little large in most cases but it works great for trimming up the rabbet side of sash munitions. Shoulder planes don’t work well on long grain work, jamb up to quickly. Rabbet planes work better for that. It’s one of those if you need it, you need it things.

[Talbert McMullin]

I don't use my LV medium shoulder plane a lot, but when I need it, I really need it.