Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Cermark Ultra

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    12,618

    Cermark Ultra

    If you're considering purchasing the new Cermark Ultra you might want to start with a small quantity or even free samples (if there are any) before investing a bundle on a large quantity. Early reports seem to indicate some issues with covering large areas and with re-applying.

    We'd be very interested to hear of your experiences if you've already tried it.

    I still have a nearly full 500g bottle of LMM6000 or I would have ordered.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  2. #2
    I have some coming in Wednesday. Mike Stover has been very helpful with any questions I had in the past. I like that the new Cermark can supposedly mark on many more materials and at 100% speed on the trotecs. Its going to be a game changer for me if it works well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    1,840
    So I finally had a chance to test the Ultra.

    I cut it 50% Ultra and 50% DNA. I used a foam brush to apply. I thought it was much more "liquidier" than the 6000. When I dipped it into the solution, it started dripping off the foam brush. But it seemed to cover much more. I can usually cover about 10 stainless steel tags before dipping the brush in for more.....but with the Ultra, I probably covered 20 tags before needing more. Also, when applying, coverage on the tag seemed more consistent. Sometimes with 6000 I have to wipe the tag twice because it streaks. Not so with Ultra, it really never streaked.....and I don't attribute it to the fact that it was "wateryier". And after cleaning, there was no staining of the metal. Sometimes if you don't cover a tag completely, after cleaning you can tell what part was covered and what part wasn't. It also seemed to dry significantly faster than 6000......where 6000 seems to take 15-20 minutes to dry, the Ultra dried in 5-10 minutes. And once dry, it was pretty durable. I think it was the 6038 that literally wiped off, the Ultra was more like 6000 in that you really need to scratch it for it to come off.

    As for settings.....I was very disappointed that my setting were exactly the same for Ultra as they were for 6000. With my 45 watt Epilog, I use 100 Power and 30 Speed. See attached pictures of before and after cleaning. One tag (greenish) is 6000 and the other tag (greyish color) was the Ultra. It's nice that the dried color is different so you can tell which Cermark you used. The lasered mark was just as black using those settings for both 6000 and Ultra.....I would say no difference at all. For the Ultra tag, I used 100 Power and those were my Speeds.

    Overall, I'm happy with the Ultra because it seems to be easier to apply, it doesn't easily wipe off, and it seems to have more coverage. But don't get it because you think you can run faster. Also, I did not try it on anything other than stainless, so if it will work on glass, ceramic, aluminum, etc. then that will be a big plus.


    Ultra1.jpg


    Ultra2.jpg
    Epilog Mini 24 - 45 Watt, Corel Draw X5, Wacom Intuos Tablet, Unengraved HP Laptop, with many more toys to come.....





    If you have an apple and I have an apple and we exchange apples then you and I will still each have one apple. But if you have an idea and I have one idea and we exchange these ideas, then each of us will have two ideas... George B. Shaw

  4. #4
    As for dry time, not sure why you're having such long dry times with any Cermark, BUT, maybe it's more humid where you are. I've never had 6000 take longer than 3 minutes to dry, and it's usually less than a minute. Also, I have fans EVERYWHERE in my basement and garae shop going all the time, and that helps...

    I like Ultra in that it's easy to apply; doesn't clump near as bad in the bottle so it's easy to keep mixed; foam brushes don't turn into bricks when they dry, so easy to re-use the brushes; it engraves darker than 6000...

    --but my 'like' for it stops cold right about there.

    Like Steve, I don't know who came up with the 'you can engrave faster' tagline, but no, you can't.

    Steve, could you do an experiment for me? Your grid test above or however you did it- take a fresh test piece of SS, run it as you did above only about 10% slower overall. And add to it some BIGGER/THICKER text for good measure. Run the bigger at your normal 6000 settings. Clean and dry as usual. Take pics. Then run the same plate again: cover half of it with Ultra, and half with 6000, and run it again, clean and dry, and take pics...

    I'm very curious to see the results. I'll explain why later....
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  5. #5
    I saw this comparison the other day. It may be of value. It doesn't have Ultra.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emlVbVSWPT0

  6. #6
    Well, since Steve is MIA at the moment and can't confirm that his Ultra is like MY Ultra, I'll just show my results--
    First, want to point out that these are stainless radiator covers for older GM cars, this is just one, that I laser etch for a GM-licensed dealer, so no TM issues...

    I didn't get pics of the whole thing at first, just the worst spots.
    This is the spotty results on the left- not too bad, but not what I'm used to with 6000...
    EL1.jpg

    Here's a closeup- also shows the 'gritty' surface texture, very similar to the white Cermark I tried on guns years ago.
    EL1B.jpg

    Ok, a little spotty, just put on another coat and run it again to fill it in, done that a zillion times with 6000...

    Ummm... not EVEN what I was expecting...
    EL2.jpg
    ELCAM1.jpg
    And, I found if you second-coat this with 6000 instead of Ultra, it does the same thing

    THIS is why I'd like someone to try the same thing, to run a second coat pass, to see if it disintegrates the both coats like I'm doing. FWIW, this is my 30w GCC Explorer, so it's not like I'm overpowering the stuff. And I've found the best results come from using the same settings I use for 6000...

    I can live with having to run a second pass, but I CAN'T have the second pass completely ruin the engraving- and my customers parts. To save this piece I had to completely sand the top of the cover down. I WILL say, the Ultra DOES adhere as well- where it DOES adhere- as the 6000, it's a bugger to get rid of it completely.
    You can still see the shadow of the original, just barely but it's still there!
    SANDED.jpg

    And the results after using my trusty 6000--
    EL9.jpg
    EL9B.jpg

    I engraved this exactly the same way as I did the Ultra.

    I have a 1000gm bottle of this stuff and I can't use it, at least on other people's stainless. I'm not sure why it's doing what it's doing, but I can't take the risk...

    Comparison tests welcome
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  7. #7
    I bought an aerosol of the Ultra and just from my first test, I had the same results. Not solid coverage at all compared to Laserbond or the 6000.
    Rabbit QX80-1290
    TTP Stingray
    LogoJET UV2400

    CorelDraw 2018

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •