Minimax CU300 Smart - Planer not powering up

[Frank Martin]

In jointer mode it works totally fine. When switched to planer function by raising the jointer beds it does not work. I am suspecting it may be the microswitch which the manual shows on the side of the jointer outfeed bed side. However, I have not been able to locate and troubleshoot.

I know several people here have this machine. Anyone know where to look?

[Rick Potter]

Check You Tube. Can't remember his name, but one owner described how the whole safety switch setup works. Interestingly, there is a series of mechanical rods traveling from various guards which operate the micro switches.

The switches may not be where you think, and it might be a simple lubing of some push rods that go to a centrally located switch. Sorry, I cannot be more specific.

You do have the main function switch in the right position?

[Frank Martin]

Thanks, Rick. Found the video. It is by Sunnybeeches, he has few other videos on this machine. I had watched some of his other videos, but not this one. Now I know where to look for. Hope it is not too difficult to fix.

The main switch is in the correct position (same position as jointer). It does work in the jointer mode, but doesn’t in the planer mode. That’s why I thought the likely culprit is the safety switch, but will find out...

[Dan Siedschlag]

Frank - If you aren't a member of the Minimax owner's group now located on groups.io (https://groups.io/g/MinimaxOwnersGroup) I highly recommend it. If nothing else, it is a more targeted audience for your problem. The group has been more active since the move from Yahoo to Groups.io. Best of luck in finding the cure. Dan

[Frank Martin]

I was able to fix the problem. It was indeed the safety switch associated with the jointer/ planer. Good thing is that I did not have to disassemble much. Only removed the front cover (blue plastic panel around the main switch and saw height adjustment area) and tilted the saw blade 45 degrees to gain visual access to the switch. I observed the switch while my son did the changeover from jointer to planer and back. I realized the switch was getting stuck when converted to the planer function. Only gently moved it with a screwdriver once. Then it started working fine.

I am still not functional as in the process planer dust port (blue plastic portion) broke off as it had gotten too brittle with age. Jointer dust hood had also developed a crack, but was still functional. So, it is time to order all those parts to get everything back to functional again.

Dan, thanks for the link to the Minimax owners group. New one looks a lot better than before. I will join there.

[Erik Loza]

I remember that steel rod getting gunked up with sawdust or crud from time to time. Just enough to make it grabby in the bore. The documentation never really addressed it but I always thought it was a good idea to spray some CRC contact cleaner on those switches every so often and shoot some down the rod bore, too.

Erik

[Frank Martin]

I remember that steel rod getting gunked up with sawdust or crud from time to time. Just enough to make it grabby in the bore. The documentation never really addressed it but I always thought it was a good idea to spray some CRC contact cleaner on those switches every so often and shoot some down the rod bore, too.

Erik

Erik, that is a great idea! I did apply couple drops of CRC 3-36 down the rods, but will do the contact cleaner treatments. While I am waiting for the dust ports to arrive, I am going to cleanup the interior including the chain that drives the planer feed mechanism. It currently has grease (likely the original from the factory) that has collected dust. I am thinking of really cleaning it including wiping down with paint thinner and then apply teflon based bike chain lube. I will probably do some cleaning/re-lubing of other moving parts as well.

[Erik Loza]

Erik, that is a great idea! I did apply couple drops of CRC 3-36 down the rods, but will do the contact cleaner treatments. While I am waiting for the dust ports to arrive, I am going to cleanup the interior including the chain that drives the planer feed mechanism. It currently has grease (likely the original from the factory) that has collected dust. I am thinking of really cleaning it including wiping down with paint thinner and then apply teflon based bike chain lube. I will probably do some cleaning/re-lubing of other moving parts as well.

Frank, there were a lot of "little things" I always thought about doing to our machines that have nothing to do with the quality of the machine but could really smooth things out. For example, I thought about pulling that rod out, polishing it on my cloth wheel, then running a tiny flex hone or maybe dowel with some emery paper wrapped around it down the bore. To make the action super smooth and resistant to collecting crud. Ditto on the lever locks for the jointer table. The manufacturing is fine, of course, but there are always some roughness to the bores on those machined holes and other surfaces. I could make a list a mile long: Polish the machined base and fence adjustments on the shaper hood, polish all the various gib bars that can be herky-jerky when you're taking the crosscut fence on and off, de-burr and polish the micro-adjust for the rip fence, etc. Never actually did it but always wanted to.

Erik

[Frank Martin]

Frank, there were a lot of "little things" I always thought about doing to our machines that have nothing to do with the quality of the machine but could really smooth things out. For example, I thought about pulling that rod out, polishing it on my cloth wheel, then running a tiny flex hone or maybe dowel with some emery paper wrapped around it down the bore. To make the action super smooth and resistant to collecting crud. Ditto on the lever locks for the jointer table. The manufacturing is fine, of course, but there are always some roughness to the bores on those machined holes and other surfaces. I could make a list a mile long: Polish the machined base and fence adjustments on the shaper hood, polish all the various gib bars that can be herky-jerky when you're taking the crosscut fence on and off, de-burr and polish the micro-adjust for the rip fence, etc. Never actually did it but always wanted to.
Erik

Erik, these are great suggestions. I just happened to have installed a cotton buffing wheel to try "unicorn bevel", so I have a means to polish metal parts. I totally appreciate where you are going with this as the machine overall is great, but can get a lot smoother. Fire away other ideas. I am sure others reading this in the future would appreciate as well.

[Erik Loza]

Frank, this is pretty nerdy but one thing I always thought about doing was replacing all the button-head fasteners with stainless steel ones. If you happen to have a climate-controlled shop, not such a big deal but in open shops, those black fasteners tend to rust and sometimes seize in place. Stainless fasteners would look snazzy, too. When I was doing the show circuit for MM back in the day, we were disassembling the CU300 all the time. I would go through and chase out all the threaded holes with a tap (mostly all M6X1.0). In particular, the ends of the sliding table where the plates screw on and the 90-degree stop nut for the crosscut fence. You could put a little anti-seize paste on the threads and never have to worry about them freezing in place. I would also slightly bull-nose, chamfer, and polish the steel gib bars for the hold-down clamp, the slider push handle, the mitre fence, etc. Make then easier to glide back and forth. Just ideas that came to me.

Erik

[Rick Potter]

Eric,

Thanks for the suggestions. I have cleaning up the ends of the hold down clamp nut on my list also.

One question about that hold down. What is the recommended way to clamp down with it? Setting the clamp on the work piece with the clamp wide open, then snapping it down seems way too tight. I have tried putting a shim on the work piece, adjusting the clamp, then removing the shim.

I also have tried setting the clamp on the work piece with the handle positioned straight up, then tightening it. This way seems to work, but there must be a recommended way which I am not aware of. I do not want to over tension it and bend the table groove.

Any thoughts?

[Erik Loza]

Rick, I agree: Mechanical eccentric clamps definitely have a sweet spot as far as pressure and real easy to over-press with the lever. Sam Blasco's trick on the eccentric clamp was to insert a square of thick leather between the nose of the clamp and the workpiece. It gives enough to still allow for plenty or pressure on the workpiece and also seems to absorb some of that very slight "shift" the nose does as it bottoms out. You could probably use a square of heavy rubber or possibly thick neoprene.

Erik

[Frank Martin]

Frank, this is pretty nerdy but one thing I always thought about doing was replacing all the button-head fasteners with stainless steel ones. If you happen to have a climate-controlled shop, not such a big deal but in open shops, those black fasteners tend to rust and sometimes seize in place. Stainless fasteners would look snazzy, too. When I was doing the show circuit for MM back in the day, we were disassembling the CU300 all the time. I would go through and chase out all the threaded holes with a tap (mostly all M6X1.0). In particular, the ends of the sliding table where the plates screw on and the 90-degree stop nut for the crosscut fence. You could put a little anti-seize paste on the threads and never have to worry about them freezing in place. I would also slightly bull-nose, chamfer, and polish the steel gib bars for the hold-down clamp, the slider push handle, the mitre fence, etc. Make then easier to glide back and forth. Just ideas that came to me.

Erik

Great ideas. If I get the energy to do something over the weekend (heat wave) I will see if I can take care of some of these.