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Thread: Do I have enough outlets?

  1. #31
    I'm in this process as well. I'm putting in 12/3 & 10/3 wire for multi-wire branch circuits. 2 hots 1 neutral & 1 ground go to every box. 2 hots to different duplex outlets neutral & ground pigtail to both outlets. You must use breaker ties on the two hots. The wire is a more expensive though. I put them about 5 feet apart figuring that if I wanted a hand tool real quick I could move outlets without an extension cord. Enjoy your new shop!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
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    2,289
    If it was me I would think long and hard about what tools you plan on owning. For example a 5hp 20" 4 post planer is going to draw 25 amps, but not at start up. It'll likely draw more than 30 for a brief moment. Grizzy says a 30 amp is enough while Powermatic says a 40 amp is needed. Are you going to have a jointer and planer, a combo machine, or neither? If you are going to have two separate machines then you may want to use them at the same time. With only one 240v outlet you will be plugging and unplugging tools (and forgetting until you push the ON button and nothing happens). If you have a lunch box planer now are you going to keep it for the life of this shop or are their plans in the future to get something quieter? Chances are that'll be 240v. I have 3 240v outlets in my basement shop. Two are 30 amp and the third is 40 amp. The 40 amp circuit has a 30 amp twist lock outlet and right next to it a 20 amp flat blade style outlet so I can use one or the other. The two 30 amp circuits have just the flat blade style 20 amp outlets. But the correct size wire to handle the maximum power the breaker will allow must be used. That way I'm future proofed if I need to add larger outlets.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Eastern Iowa
    Posts
    751
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    If it was me I would think long and hard about what tools you plan on owning. For example a 5hp 20" 4 post planer is going to draw 25 amps, but not at start up. It'll likely draw more than 30 for a brief moment. Grizzy says a 30 amp is enough while Powermatic says a 40 amp is needed. Are you going to have a jointer and planer, a combo machine, or neither? If you are going to have two separate machines then you may want to use them at the same time. With only one 240v outlet you will be plugging and unplugging tools (and forgetting until you push the ON button and nothing happens). If you have a lunch box planer now are you going to keep it for the life of this shop or are their plans in the future to get something quieter? Chances are that'll be 240v. I have 3 240v outlets in my basement shop. Two are 30 amp and the third is 40 amp. The 40 amp circuit has a 30 amp twist lock outlet and right next to it a 20 amp flat blade style outlet so I can use one or the other. The two 30 amp circuits have just the flat blade style 20 amp outlets. But the correct size wire to handle the maximum power the breaker will allow must be used. That way I'm future proofed if I need to add larger outlets.
    Alex, I don’t think this is code compliant. Both the wiring and devices must be protected. Code says the receptacle must match the over current protection. As far as I can tell, the only exception is 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit with the proviso that it is not the only outlet on the circuit (a duplex receptacle is considered two).

    Edit: welders are an exception, too. You can put a 50 amp receptacle on a 40 amp circuit, but you can’t put a smaller receptacle on it.
    Last edited by Charlie Velasquez; 08-21-2020 at 8:23 PM. Reason: double negative
    Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.

  4. #34
    Good luck on the shop.
    When I wired my basement shop, i mounted conduit with double boxes every four feet around two walls. Each box contained two double outlets and I am amazed how often i use many of them for grinders, chargers, hand drills or other powered tools. I ran two 20 amp circuits within each box, but afterword a electrician suggested wiring both outlets within each box on one circuit, but then skip every other box if that makes sense. Example run circuit one to box 1, then box 3 etc. Circuit two goes to box 2, 4 etc. Less cutting of wire that way. Also Wago levered connectors instead of wire nuts makes the job so much easier.

    I also have drops to my machines and a couple of cord reels and plenty of lights. I dont think you will regret having extra outlets at least for the 120 volts.

    Stevo

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,272
    I have a single 240V circuit for the cyclone and a single 20 ampere multi-wire branch circuit for all the receptacles.

    The receptacles are in 4” square boxes with a 5-20R and a 6-20R duplex receptacle every 1.5m apart.

    This allows my machines and tools to be plugged in continuously.

    Regards, Rod.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Falls Church, VA
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    There's a thread someplace about lighting when the garage doors are open. Someone there suggested mounting some lights on the inside of the garage doors. When in the closed position, they could be handy for finishing. With the door in the open position, you have light.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    592
    My shop is 20x28

    I ran 10awg for all the 240V (spaced about 8 feet apart near the floor)
    I ran one 6awg in case I ever want to weld (its near the door)
    I ran 10awg to 3 spots in the ceiling - can be 120 or 240V
    I ran 12 awg for all the 120V (spaced about 6 feet apart at 42") quad outlets with separate circuits. 2 circuits per wall.
    I ran 14 awg for the lighting. I did 5 light switches so I can turn on and off all I need. Yes I actually use this and its nice.
    I ran 14 awg and put outlets near the ceiling - use for TV, Sonos speakers, and Eero wireless router.

    Dedicated 240V circuit for mini-split A/C and heatpump.
    Dedicated 120V circuit for mini-fridge and electric water heater for when I eventually put in a sink.
    Dedicated 120V circuit that is outside the shop on two sides

    Yes it was all overkill. I also installed it all myself (I'm an EE) and I don't regret anything I overdesigned.

    Here's my box:

    IMG_5597.jpeg
    Last edited by Thomas Crawford; 08-26-2020 at 4:38 PM.

  8. #38
    I would personally make those two walls have separate 120 circuits, so two for each. That's just me though, I prefer separate circuits when possible.

    The other thing I'd recommend you think about is ethernet drops. I would recommend at least one along a wall where you think you might have a tv, one along a wall where you might have a computer (or POE phone), and one in the ceiling to do a POE access point (I am partial to Ubiquiti Unifi). Even if you don't plan on it right now, getting the wiring in the wall now will give you options for the future.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,827
    Melvin makes a good point about having Ethernet in the building. (run separate from the electric of course) Computing is used more and more in shops. I use a hard-wired connection for both my CNC and for the Mesh System Node that's in my shop that covers wireless devices.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,272
    I have a 20 ampere multi-wire branch circuit that feeds 5-20R and 6-20R duplex receptacles in a 4” square box about every 5 feet along the wall.

    I also have. 2 pole circuit for the cyclone. That’s it for wiring except for lighting.....Rod

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