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  1. #1

    Question Hand Plane - First time buying

    Hi Everyone, this is my first post and hopefully I can get some advice. I've primarily been woodworker who uses machines, but I'm find that I need more options. I'm planning on buying a few hand planes in the near future, and I'd like some opinions. I like to buy a tool once, and keep it, so I don't mind spending a little more up front from a quality tool. I already know the opinions will all be varied and informative, so please give me what you got.

    I'm planning on having a total of 4 planes, some of which I haven't decided on, some I have. The one's I haven't are the one's I need help with.

    #1 Block plane - I keep going round and round over this one. I'm stuck between the Veritas DX60 and the Lie-Neilsen 60 1/2 (can't make a decision on the standard or rabbit). I'm really hoping users who have these tools or have both, can give me some feedback regarding: adjustable mouth, blade adjustment, shape for medium sized hands, etc.

    #2 Smoothing plane - Pretty sure I'm going with the LN 4 1/2 on this. (This will likely be the last of the 4 planes, that I buy)

    #3 Jack plane - Pretty sure i'm going with the LN 5 1/2 here as well. This will likely be the second plane I buy. Block plane being first.

    #4 Jointer plane - kind of at a loss on this one. The LN and the WoodRiver both look good with similar features, do not like the looks of the veritas' rounded shapes on the heel, but that's just a style choice. In regards to weight, comfort for hand size, etc.

    I've been reading reviews, watching youtube non-stop, trying to get the best feel, but would really like some personal feedback.

    Sorry for the long rant, but I appreciate any information or opinion you guys can provide.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Victor Price Jr View Post
    Hi Everyone, this is my first post and hopefully I can get some advice. I've primarily been woodworker who uses machines, but I'm find that I need more options. I'm planning on buying a few hand planes in the near future, and I'd like some opinions. I like to buy a tool once, and keep it, so I don't mind spending a little more up front from a quality tool. I already know the opinions will all be varied and informative, so please give me what you got.

    I'm planning on having a total of 4 planes, some of which I haven't decided on, some I have. The one's I haven't are the one's I need help with.

    #1 Block plane - I keep going round and round over this one. I'm stuck between the Veritas DX60 and the Lie-Neilsen 60 1/2 (can't make a decision on the standard or rabbit). I'm really hoping users who have these tools or have both, can give me some feedback regarding: adjustable mouth, blade adjustment, shape for medium sized hands, etc.

    #2 Smoothing plane - Pretty sure I'm going with the LN 4 1/2 on this. (This will likely be the last of the 4 planes, that I buy)

    #3 Jack plane - Pretty sure i'm going with the LN 5 1/2 here as well. This will likely be the second plane I buy. Block plane being first.

    #4 Jointer plane - kind of at a loss on this one. The LN and the WoodRiver both look good with similar features, do not like the looks of the veritas' rounded shapes on the heel, but that's just a style choice. In regards to weight, comfort for hand size, etc.

    I've been reading reviews, watching youtube non-stop, trying to get the best feel, but would really like some personal feedback.

    Sorry for the long rant, but I appreciate any information or opinion you guys can provide.
    Victor,

    If you are confused now, wait for this thread to run for a few days .

    I'll still add a couple of thoughts: A jack plane is a rough plane, no need to spend for the precision of a LN or LV, a wood stock or old Stanley is better. Same with the jointer, the LN or Woodriver are both way too heavy to use for any length of time, a old Stanley or wood stock is a better jointer. For a smoothing plane the LN or LV is a good pick but a 4 1/2 is usually too big for most jobs.

    ken

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ken hatch View Post
    Victor,

    If you are confused now, wait for this thread to run for a few days .

    I'll still add a couple of thoughts: A jack plane is a rough plane, no need to spend for the precision of a LN or LV, a wood stock or old Stanley is better. Same with the jointer, the LN or Woodriver are both way too heavy to use for any length of time, a old Stanley or wood stock is a better jointer. For a smoothing plane the LN or LV is a good pick but a 4 1/2 is usually too big for most jobs.

    ken
    Thanks Ken,
    I've been searching Ebay, Craigslist, etc for handplanes, but I can't seem to find a place where I can pick up a solid plane (doesn't have to be pretty, I can clean it up), that's not the same cost as a new LV or LN. Are there places to look for people selling older planes that I might be able to pick some up at a decent cost? I'm in Eastern Central Florida, and the closest woodworking store is 2 hours away (Rockler and WoodCraft). I try to hit estate sales, but most of what I find around here are old machining tools, not woodworking.

    Thank you for the feedback.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Victor Price Jr View Post
    Thanks Ken,
    I've been searching Ebay, Craigslist, etc for handplanes, but I can't seem to find a place where I can pick up a solid plane (doesn't have to be pretty, I can clean it up), that's not the same cost as a new LV or LN. Are there places to look for people selling older planes that I might be able to pick some up at a decent cost? I'm in Eastern Central Florida, and the closest woodworking store is 2 hours away (Rockler and WoodCraft). I try to hit estate sales, but most of what I find around here are old machining tools, not woodworking.

    Thank you for the feedback.
    Victor,

    Try "Time Tested Tools" He sells good user planes.

    ken

  5. #5
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    Maybe a bit of "Show & Tell....before this devolves into the usual "I have (insert brand name) and LOVE it!" sort of thing.
    Jointer: Depends on the LENGTH of the board...have used a #3 up to old Heft & Hubris No.8...mainstay?
    Show & Tell, Jointer.JPG
    A no. 7c..22" long. 2-3/5" wide iron...

    Jack plane: Because it is a "Jack" of all trades. Can be a #5-1/4 ( 11" long, 1-3/4" wide iron) up to the Jumbo Jack...I mainly use just a plain old jack..
    Show & Tell, Jack.JPG
    14" long, 2" wide iron...I have a jack with a cambered iron, another with the straight edge...different jobs, different set up. Some here will try to sell you one of these..
    Show & Tell, No. 62, shavings.JPG
    This is the first time in almost a year that this has even seen a shaving...

    Ok..smoothers? Can be a #3 size, or a #4 size...I use both, depending on what size area I want to smooth out...a #3 can go places that the larger #4 can't..
    Show & Tell, smoother.JPG
    No. 9 ( size #4)with a 2" wide iron, 9-10" long.
    Finally..block plane(s)...can be a low angle, adjustable mouth...
    Show & Tell, LA Block.JPG
    Or the so-called "Standard Angle" with an adjustable mouth and a screw style adjuster..
    Show & Tell, 2 block styles.JPG
    Some block plane need a hammer to adjust..save those for peeling paint....
    Show & Tell, 2 block, shavings.JPG
    These two do a decent job on wood. A #60-1/2, and a Marsh 9-1/2....

    I do have a couple #5-1/2 planes...I use those more as a very short jointer, or to get a glued up panel flat. I view a #4-1/2 as mainly a FAT, oversized, overhyped smooth plane-shaped object.

    Ok, back to a word from our sponsors....carry on.

  6. #6
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    Then main reason I do NOT like the 62....besides being a tear-out machine....and the added expense of multiple irons I would somehow try to keep track of...is this..
    Show & Tell, No. 62...not good.JPG
    I removed the cap iron to find this mess...after the plane had stopped even trying to cut..Pine...then, UNDERNEATH the iron..
    Show & Tell, No. 62, under the blade.JPG
    All the way back and into the depth adjuster bolt....

    Back on to the shelf for another year....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Then main reason I do NOT like the 62....besides being a tear-out machine....and the added expense of multiple irons I would somehow try to keep track of...is this..

    I removed the cap iron to find this mess...after the plane had stopped even trying to cut..Pine...then, UNDERNEATH the iron..

    All the way back and into the depth adjuster bolt....

    Back on to the shelf for another year....
    My LN #62 never has that problem. Yours is definitely not a Lie-Nielsen #62.

    As with many things the original maker has a lot to do with how well a product works.

    Just my 2¢ Two Cents.png

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    My LN #62 never has that problem. Yours is definitely not a Lie-Nielsen #62.

    As with many things the original maker has a lot to do with how well a product works.

    Just my 2¢ Two Cents.png

    jtk
    Neither has my ln #62.

  9. #9
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    Never said mine was...it IS however a #62....just happened to be from Wood River.....would rather it have been a VINTAGE Stanley #62...but...

  10. #10
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    Hmmm, anyone enjoy the little Show &Tell? or, are we too busy selling other planes?

    Maybe I just wasted my time putting the picture show together....

  11. #11
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    More show and tell? ;-)

    #1- The Apron Plane I prefer and a couple of other block planes that have been morphed into quasi-No 3's.

    LA BLock n Apron.jpg

    A bevel up smoother that I really like but . . .

    BU Smoother test 1-r.jpg

    I would leave it for a No 4 (in this case an MF No 9) if I could only have one.

    MF No 9 (2).jpg

    The ever-useful LAJ.

    SB-Guide-Rail-3.jpg

    A BU Jointer.

    Low Profile Benchstop (3).jpg

    I could do almost anything with these four but, I would really miss my shoulder planes ;-)
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 08-13-2020 at 8:12 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Hmmm, anyone enjoy the little Show &Tell? or, are we too busy selling other planes?

    Maybe I just wasted my time putting the picture show together....
    Well, since you asked, I usually don't look at any of your images because the contrast is too washed out on my monitor (27-inch iMac), the backgrounds are too cluttered, and clicking on them doesn't help much for the resolution. I think I remember reading in one of your posts that you use a one-size-fits-all post processing standard so your images will comply with restrictions on another website.

  13. #13
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    Yep....THIS site ....

    Shows up fine on mine....

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Yep....THIS site ....

    Shows up fine on mine....
    I didn't really look at your pictures until you asked the question but here's my comments. My first suggestion is to make the pictures larger. I like to use 1500 pixels across. The web site will scale the pictures to fill the screen but if someone clicks on that image they will get the full resolution. That allows someone to see more of the detail in the pictures.

    Beyond that, attention to proper focus is really important. Some lesser improvements are to pose your image so that the object is the major focus of the picture. For example, if you are taking a picture of a hand plane, using a plain background, such as a white sheet, will bring attention to the plane and not to the background. The position of the camera to the image should be selected carefully to show the object in the proper perspective and with the detail you want to convey.

    If you post process your pictures, such as with PhotoShop, adjust the lighting and contrast so that the details of the image are visible. For example, oftentimes detail is not visible in the shadows but with some adjustment in PhotoShop you can lighten up the shadows so that shadow detail is visible.

    If you don't do post processing, attention to the lighting setup in the shot is very important so that strong shadows are minimized.

    Anyway, just a few suggestions. Other people may have some of their own.

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 08-14-2020 at 11:02 AM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  15. #15
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    Tried that...site will NOT show the photos above what I am posting now....been going through that BS for the past year..and...this IS the only site I will need to size the pictures like that....all others I am on, re-size large photos down to what will fit their site....but not here.

    Question was more about what planes I posted...NOT a "Photo Class 101" It is what it is....thanks to this site..
    August Rust Hunt, .JPG

    I have things to clean up....have fun....

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