Hand Plane - First time buying

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Victor and welcome to the Creek.

Here is an old post that may provide more information on hand planes > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076

One thought on the #4-1/2, #5-1/2 and #7 assortment is they all use the same size blade. (The Stanley/Bailey #5-1/2 used a 2-1/4" blade before 1939.)

As far as historical use it is easy to see which were more used by how many are offered on ebay. The #4 and #5 planes are so common because they were in every woodworker's, carpenter's and homeowner's tool kit.

If one is a heftier person or has large hands the larger sizes might be ideal. In such a case if one wasn't concerned about keeping blade sizes the same a #8 might also be preferred. My #6 and #8 are used more than my #5-1/2 or my #7.

An adjustable mouth on a block plane is very useful if one is smoothing a convex curve, such as on the corner of a table. It prevents the blade from taking a big bite. A low angle block plane is hard to beat when smoothing end grain or chamfering an edge across the end of a piece.

You will likely find the more experienced one becomes with hand planes, the less there is a need or use for sandpaper.

Rabbet planes can be very useful for their intended purpose. They do not do well as a substitute for a regular bench plane or block plane.

If you need a rabbet plane for clean up on table saw cut rabbets you may find a shoulder plane or other rabbet planes a better choice.

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

Type tends to refer to years they were made and features like how the castings look. Some people are into the types of their planes and some are not. It matters most when you are trying to find parts for a particular plane.

At some point Stanley and other companies planes' quality went to h#ll. Different people peg the time differently, but generally you hear WWII or some time to the 1950s or even early 1960s. I have some planes from the late '40s, early '50s that are favorites, so it isn't an exact date, like September 2, 1945. If you are looking at used, condition often matters more than the specific type. A good type 19 is probably a better bet than a beat up type 9. Myself, I am not into types. I just want a plane that works.

New planes don't have type numbers in the way that old planes do.

[lowell holmes]

Buy one plane, use it for a while and you will know what to do. You might look on the auction site and see if you can buy a set of Bed Rock planes. I did and quit shopping for planes.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I’m not sure that corrugated bottoms do much but others may have a different and more informed opinion. I’ve read it’s not worth looking one way or another.

I was told that a corrugated bottom should have less friction. I never noticed a difference myself, but that was what I was told. On the other hand, if you want to plane the edge of a board, so the surface is say 1" or less wide, I have heard complaints with corrugated on a narrow surface. For that reason alone, I would take one that was not corrugated if all other things were equal.

[glenn bradley]

I am a hybrid woodworker so I am already where you are heading. I see from your opening post that you are already prepared for the onslaught and variety of responses. This is a good thing. Here's my take if I were to go back and do it again. I can barely squeeze into a medium Wells Lamont style work glove and a large is what I wear just to give you an idea of hand size:

#1 Block plane - Varitas Apron Plane. I have other block planes, all very good ones. The Apron Plane is my most used and the one I would keep if I could only have one. I find the DX-60 awkward to hold; right shape, wrong size.

#2 Smoothing plane - I have a couple of No 4's (actually Millers Falls No 9's with PM-v11 iron / cap sets) , a Veritas BU smoother and a Veritas Low Angle Smooth Plane. If I could only keep one it would be the No 4. This is influenced by my owning a Veritas LAJ as mentioned in the next section. If I need a steep or shallow angle smoother I just pop the appropriate iron in the LAJ. YMMV.

#3 Jack plane - Veritas Low Angle Jack. I love this plane. It smooths, it joints, it shoots. My affinity for this plane is akin to a Festool user choosing their router; there is a herd-benefit that may not be present if used alone. My LAJ, my BU Smoother and my BU Jointer all take the same iron size. I have a half a dozen that I exchange between them making all of them multifaceted in their use.

#4 Jointer plane - I run a Veritas BU jointer for the reasons stated above. If I didn't have the herd-benefit of swapping irons . . . I would still get the Veritas BU Jointer. The Norris style adjuster, the set screws, the stop for the adjustable throat; all these combine to make taking the iron out for a quick touch up and then going right back to work effortless. These features also allow me to swap iron angles to the task with minimal adjustment. *** not a determining factor *** There are also a selection of add-ons (fence, variable angle fence, fast adjusters, different totes and knobs) for the BU Jointer that may help the user when starting out and beyond.

IHMO, the Woodriver planes have priced themselves so close to Veritas or Lei Nielsen that I wonder why one wouldn't just cough up another "bar tab" and go for the head(s) of the pack.

[steven c newman]

Then main reason I do NOT like the 62....besides being a tear-out machine....and the added expense of multiple irons I would somehow try to keep track of...is this..
Show & Tell, No. 62...not good.JPG
I removed the cap iron to find this mess...after the plane had stopped even trying to cut..Pine...then, UNDERNEATH the iron..
Show & Tell, No. 62, under the blade.JPG
All the way back and into the depth adjuster bolt....

Back on to the shelf for another year....

[Jerome Andrieux]

My 2 cents:

1. There is no "perfect minimal set", but you can’t go really wrong with the brands you named. I would choose the LV rabbet block plane though.
2. Let’s face it, you are asking a lovable bunch of addicts to help with your first dose. If you like it, you’ll get more. If you don’t, the brands mentioned have great resell value.
3. Whatever choice you make, whether new or vintage, high end bronze pmv11 or simple iron woodies, learn how to sharpen the blades. The rest is only 20% of the work and results. It needs to be done well many times a day. I would suggest a simple double sided diamond plate and some honing compound on mdf.

Have fun!

[David Bassett]

... I would suggest a simple double sided diamond plate and some honing compound on mdf. ...

I would suggest searching for sharpening threads when you're ready to address your sharpening needs. (If you even hint at an interest, this crew will rehash every variation and each personal preference for days overwhelming you with info.)

PS- diamond plates are evil for sharpening!

[Jim Koepke]

Then main reason I do NOT like the 62....besides being a tear-out machine....and the added expense of multiple irons I would somehow try to keep track of...is this..

I removed the cap iron to find this mess...after the plane had stopped even trying to cut..Pine...then, UNDERNEATH the iron..

All the way back and into the depth adjuster bolt....

Back on to the shelf for another year....

My LN #62 never has that problem. Yours is definitely not a Lie-Nielsen #62.

As with many things the original maker has a lot to do with how well a product works.

Just my 2¢ Two Cents.png

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

My LN #62 never has that problem. Yours is definitely not a Lie-Nielsen #62.

As with many things the original maker has a lot to do with how well a product works.

Just my 2¢ Two Cents.png

jtk

Neither has my ln #62.

[Victor Price Jr]

I would suggest searching for sharpening threads when you're ready to address your sharpening needs. (If you even hint at an interest, this crew will rehash every variation and each personal preference for days overwhelming you with info.)

PS- diamond plates are evil for sharpening!

I’ve got diamond plates. 300/600/1200 an 8000 stone and strop. I sharpen chisels for friends and family. I’ve got that part down. I’ve got a jig as well.

[Victor Price Jr]

Oh, I think I’m going to try a couple of type 19 Stanley’s. What angle should’ve they be sharpened to? 25 or 30?

[Tony Wilkins]

Oh, I think I’m going to try a couple of type 19 Stanley’s. What angle should’ve they be sharpened to? 25 or 30?

To answer your sharpening question, yes.

[ken hatch]

I’ve got diamond plates. 300/600/1200 an 8000 stone and strop. I sharpen chisels for friends and family. I’ve got that part down. I’ve got a jig as well.

Victor,

Oh such innocence , just you wait until you have a question or make a statement like I've got that part down.

ken

[steven c newman]

Never said mine was...it IS however a #62....just happened to be from Wood River.....would rather it have been a VINTAGE Stanley #62...but...