Which is best, twice the clamps with 1/2 the force, or 1/2 clamps with 2 times force?

[Don Stephan]

When building my 4' x 8' torsion box assembly table I think I followed an article by Ian Kirby. I think my top, bottom are 1/2" MDF, and grid 3/4" MDF. If memory serves, first I very carefully cut the grid pieces. I think then I jointed and edge planed 4 or 5 2/x4's so they all were straight with parallel edges all the same width. A pair of sawhorses perhaps 6' apart were shimmed so the top top edges were coplanar, then spaced out the 2x4's across them. One sheet of 1/2" MDF was laid on the 2x4's, the grid was assembled with staples bridging the butt joints, a bead of glue on the top edges of the grid, the other sheet of 1/2" MDF laid on the grid. Several 4x8 sheets of plywood and melamine board were quickly laid on top to "clamp" while the glue dried. Several hours or the next day clamps held the sandwich together while it was turned over, then the gluing process repeated. A 2nd pair of hands was needed for the process.

I would not have the confidence that a sufficient number of screws could be driven, even in pre-drilled holes, before the glue started to set.

[Curt Harms]

You're over thinking this.

I would recommend buying a "Pin Nailer" and quiet compressor for this, and future cabinetry builds.

Pin nails leave an undisturbed surface and hold pieces together while the glue dries. Using screws for the task *would* work, but screws require predrilling clearance holes AND a countersink to get the head flush.

https://www.californiaairtools.com/

(The compressor package I chose came out of their bundled offerings, UPS.)

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/p...l-screw-holes/

i've built a couple movable torsion box style work benches. I did 1/4" ply bottoms and 3/8" ply tops. Fastened with glue and narrow crown staples driven flush. I did check with string and winding sticks to make sure there was no significant bow or twist before stapling the top.