Help me choose new ROS-please

[mike stenson]

Its not pneumatic. Its DC brushless, quiet, smooth, fast, read,.. I would never pay the cost to manufacture clean dry air for an air dynabrade. Not to mention 319 dollars would be a total rape job. You can buy decent quality air dynabrades with no DC option for like $100 bucks.

Yea, I was confused from the previous posts Thanks for taking the time to clear it up!

[Bobby Robbinett]

That design of the AirVantage is the best that I have came across. I had the opportunity to play with a similar clone of that design at a wood working show a while back. Absolutely the most comfortable and smooth sander I have ever used. Way more comfortable than the Festool Rotex, which is what I use at home and work. Does anyone make one in that style (DC brushless with the handle on top) that will remove stock as aggressively as the Festool Rotex? If so, I would probably buy one today.

[Michael Drew]

Its not pneumatic. Its DC brushless, quiet, smooth, fast, read,.. I would never pay the cost to manufacture clean dry air for an air dynabrade. Not to mention 319 dollars would be a total rape job. You can buy decent quality air dynabrades with no DC option for like $100 bucks.

I see they offer the sander you linked to with 3/16 and 3/32 hook and loop pads. I gotta admit, I don't even know what all my other ROS's have, but I do replace pads from time to time. What do you (or anyone) recommend? I think I'm going to buy one of these sanders...... I'm a tool junkie.

[Mark Bolton]

I see they offer the sander you linked to with 3/16 and 3/32 hook and loop pads. I gotta admit, I don't even know what all my other ROS's have, but I do replace pads from time to time. What do you (or anyone) recommend? I think I'm going to buy one of these sanders...... I'm a tool junkie.

The 3/16 orbit would be your standard sander for day to day wood sanding. 3/32 would be a finish room sander (de-nib, scuff sanding clears between coats, or for super fine sanding work, uber hardwoods being sanded to super meticulous finish)

Hook and loop or PSA is your preference. You cant really get anything truely flat with hook and loop but most use it. We switch out to PSA pads if we need something super flat like high gloss cherry, trying to get oak flat, etc.

[Dave Sabo]

Smart man...... (Dave Sabo edit.. I have no affiliation with Mirka, nor Frank Martin, and am not a salesman nor representative for either entity and am just posting my personal experience)

You should probably start a new thread on the most bestus, wondrous sanders that folks may like. Because in this case your personal experience wasn't germane to the OP's question. She said as much, and even voted with her pocketbook.

It also goes to show that you're assumption about what's within a hobbyist budget was in error too. Clearly there's interest in this product base on comments in this thread - hence my suggestion to start a new one. But in this instance your experience/advice comes across as a smarmy sales weasel pitch. The kind that doesn't listen to the customer's needs and just wants to push his own agenda. What's great for you , wasn't great for Lisa because your product didn't meet at least half of her criteria. You tried (in vain) what most weasels that can't figure out they have no sale do: tried to convince the mark, um, I mean customer, that they should really want something else. Seems you also assumed that if their budget was "x" that they'd surely spend "x times 1.5 " if you were simply persuasive enough.

A new thread would be a good place to discus the difference between all these clones because the price range is sizeable.

[Mark Bolton]

You should probably start a new thread on the most bestus, wondrous sanders that folks may like. Because in this case your personal experience wasn't germane to the OP's question. She said as much, and even voted with her pocketbook.

My "germane" contribution was that when youve bought two _less than stellar_ RO's, youve bought the AirVantage. Its simply that simple. Its not a sales pitch, its simply that you go to the home center, you buy the best sander they "seem to have" on the shelf, you spend $100 bucks, you find out its a dud, then you buy a second sander that is "supposedly" a better upgrade for $200, and low and behold... where are you at? Even if the two purchases came before its a rip the bandaid off situation and just do it. Again, cash isnt there, well... but its a rip the bandaid. Do me a favor dude, stop running your mouth and buy one.. I guarantee you it will be crickets... or you will lie and say it sucks.

The kind that doesn't listen to the customer's needs and just wants to push his own agenda

I actually did post with regards to the customers needs, fatigue. Hence my contribution to (as painful as it is) spend a little more and be done with it. As I said to you in a past post, had these sanders been 500-600 dollars in the past I would never have made such a suggestion. But at 319, they are a considerable option.

As has been stated in_this_thread "hobbyists" buy 3, 4, 5, 8, sanders.. breathing abhorrent amounts of dust, dealing with insane amounts of fatigue due to vibration, slow sanding, whatever. And to say that "budget" is not "germane" is utter foolishness. Some down-the-liner reads this and says "I want to buy my first and last sander".. its dead-on-B***S germane. And its dead on b***s germane here.

You tried (in vain) what most weasels that can't figure out they have no sale do: tried to convince the mark,

Dude, you need some serious help.

[Bradley Gray]

Mark,

I, for one appreciate your experience based thoughts. $300 bucks isn't a huge amount for a pro quality tool. Next time I need a new sander I will surely take your advice - Thanks!

[Mark Bolton]

Mods... please do not do something goofy like lock this thread.

[Clifford McGuire]

This checks all your boxes. Sort of. The paper you have won't be as effective because the hole patters will be different. I'd suggest selling it on and use the correct paper or mesh abrasives.
https://www.festoolusa.com/products/...5-req-plus-usa

This also checks a lot of boxes and might use the paper you have on hand. More $$$, and hard to find, but can use a 6" pad too !. Which you might find useful. It will also require you to re-learn -or- adjust how you hold a sander.

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...5vc-5-29852-p/

I still prefer that festool ,and would suggest going that route with some diablo mesh disks from the depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-D...H50P/311196042

I bought the ETS125 but it doesn't do a good job of removing much wood. I think it will be fine for finish sanding, but I need an all-around sander. I was also hoping to keep the budget to around $200.

[Mark Bolton]

I bought the ETS125 but it doesn't do a good job of removing much wood. I think it will be fine for finish sanding, but I need an all-around sander. I was also hoping to keep the budget to around $200.

You'll never find both in one sander. The Bosch dual mode from CPO is your best option.

[Clifford McGuire]

You'll never find both in one sander. The Bosch dual mode from CPO is your best option.

My Milwaukee served me well for 10+ years. I didn't know there was such a thing as specialty ROS until I bought the Festool.

[lowell holmes]

Go to the toy stores, Home Depot and Lowes, pick them up and decide which one you want. That's how I do it.

[Jim Becker]

Go to the toy stores, Home Depot and Lowes, pick them up and decide which one you want. That's how I do it.

The challenge with that is that mass market stores tend to only sell mass market tools, not the more specialty and higher end/higher quality tools. These places sell on price and there are sometimes good reasons that price isn't the primary driver. When it comes to sanders, that's the case with me. My hands and joints require that I have as little vibration as possible as the number one requirement. The number two requirement is quality and features like optimum dust extraction. Price pretty much comes in last place, even if I have to wait an extra month or two to acquire what I need for financial reasons.

[Frank Pratt]

The challenge with that is that mass market stores tend to only sell mass market tools, not the more specialty and higher end/higher quality tools. These places sell on price and there are sometimes good reasons that price isn't the primary driver.

That's a true fact. Actually, I don't ever recall getting a power tool in the last 20 years or so at a big box store. I get higher quality & better pricing if I watch the sales at dedicated tools stores or industrial suppliers.

[Andy D Jones]

Wow, how did we get off on this exit to Snobbyville?

Almost all of my cordless tools, and my router, (all Milwaukee) were purchased at Home Depot. They are all excellent tools. For me. Just be cause these tools have a bigger market, doesn't mean they are inferior, or worse, unsuitable, for the rest of us.

This thread seems to have turned into "Who can justify spending more for a power tool than anyone else?" I'm sure those choices are good ones, but not necessarily the best ones for all members here, especially for those that don't make a living with their woodworking, yet strive to do the best work they can, within their respective budgets.

-- Andy - Arlington TX