Paste wax or Silber Gleit........Rod.
Paste wax or Silber Gleit........Rod.
Rust is a type of corrosion, so if you have rust, you have corrosion, but not necessarily vice versa.
I use JPW, but I'm not into keeping the surface the shiny color of virgin iron/steel, I just want to make sure the rust does not progress enough to create surface roughness, or rub off on the workpiece.
-- Andy - Arlington TX
Magnetic sign material for all the flat surfaces. It'll provide a barrier that water can't get through yet when you need to use the tool you have no residue.
I was going to reply with butchers wax but I think it's the same thing or similar to Johnson’s paste wax. I apply it twice a year or anytime I see rust spots (like when my son leaves a drink on the table saw.
Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known
- Carl Sagan
Briwax. It contains a “hotter” solvent. toluene. Dissolves harder waxes and evaporates quicker. Use in a well ventilated area.
I just wanted to say thanks for detailing your procedure. Reading through this thread and how you used CRC convinced me to try it (I bought the gallon on amazon since it was so affordable - now I'm committed to it!). I had been using renaissance wax for years, but similarly have always had lingering rust issues in little time. To do the first soak, I slightly modified your process - I used a fresh green scrubbie, saturated the surfaces, and scrubbed it using the CRC as a lubricant to help lift off the surface rust and remove any remaining wax. I then wiped that off, and sprayed more on to sit overnight then wipe off.
Now, when I'm done using the bandsaw or lathe, I keep a cotton cloth for use only with CRC, and I just do a quick wipe down. Time will tell how well this works for me, but so far I'm liking this initial performance.
I also used this to rehab some hand planes as well, and similarly do a wipe down with CRC after I'm done for the day using the handplanes
AC and/or dehumidifier. Good for the woodworker as well as the tools.
I live on the east Texas gulf coast. Very high humidity and condensation in a uncontrolled shop. After years of Johnson’s paste wax and total rust bloom about twice a year because I didn’t apply the wax often enough I added the magnetic sign material covers to each machine and have eliminated all issues ove4 the last 2 years. Works great and easy.
thanks
gary
For those that use CRC (I’ve never tried it), have you had any issues with finishing? That is, does the CRC possibly transfer any residue to lumber that might interfere with various film finishes?
There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry
I live 10km from Tropic of Capricorn. Hot and humid most part of the year.
1. No AC as if for some reason outside (high humidity) air contact a cooler metal you will have condensation
2. Plenty natural ventilation
3. Standard synthetic motor oil in a thin film on most steel and iron surface
4. Machine oil for more delicate tools
5. To use them. When my tools are not used they look prone to rust faster! 😁