Bandsaw wheel shaft - loose?

[Mark Gibney]

The shaft for the lower wheel on my Davis & Wells 14" bandsaw has two bearings - one on the motor pulley side and one on the "wheel side".

I can push / pull the shaft about 1/16" in and out.

IMG_6631.jpg IMG_6632.jpg

Here's a shot of the motor pulley side, in case of any confusion

IMG_6633.jpg

It's been a long time since I put these new bearings on. I took the wheels to be balanced, then they sat here for months, so I have forgotten if this travel existed previously.
I've tried pulling the bearings tighter by drilling out a couple of 2x4s so they sit over the shaft and push on both bearings, and drawing the boards together with clamps, and I have this 1/16" of travel. I may well not be doing this correctly.

Is this travel normal / acceptable? Or should I take the assembly (it detaches easily from the saw) to someplace that can press the bearings on?
I could remove the bearings and measure the distance between the shoulders of the housing and the shaft to see if there is 1/16" difference, but to be honest I've forgotten how to remove the bearings, and I'd prefer not to.

All insights welcome!
Mark

[Andrew Hughes]

I would think there would be a something missing maybe a snap ring. I know on my Davis and Wells table saw there’s pre load spring washers.
Good Luck Mark

[Bruce King]

Probably a self centering feature. If the bearings are not rough or any other tracking issue I would not worry about it.

[Mark Gibney]

Thanks guys. Tempted to remove the bearing and look, and also tempted just to leave things as they are!

[Bill Dufour]

remember if there was a crush spacer between the two races?. the wheel side bearing should be held in with a snap ring or maybe set screw. What is moving? just the inner races and the shaft or it the outer races?
One bearing has to float to allow for shaft motion with heating.
I see no reason that bearing would not pull out while running. I think something is missing that should hold the wheel side bearing in place.
Just guessing but I would press the wheel side bearing in 1/4" or so and look for a snap ring grove in the bore casting. Actually I would pull both bearing then look. Less likely to break things that way. Pulling will probably damage the bearings. I would use a socket or piece of pipe to drive the wheel side bearing down below flush until it seats on a internal lip.
Bil lD

[Bruce Wrenn]

Looking at left photo, it looks like bearing is protruding out out case. Do bearings press into case, or press onto shaft? At some point in time, could bearings have seized and spun in case?

[Mark Gibney]

Bill, both bearings as far as I know just sit on the shaft, then the pulley and wheel butt up against them. Interesting you say one bearing needs to float to account for heat expansion.
What moves is both bearings and the shaft - they can move forwards and back in the housing.

Bruce, these are new bearings, so they haven't seized. However it's been a long time since I pressed them on and I cannot remember if they were tight with no movement. Should have taken photos!

[Bruce King]

Earlier post I thought you meant the play was with the inside race. If the outer race is moving in the housing you must have put in the wrong size bearing or it has spun out and damaged the housing. I guess it’s possible with a high tension blade. Anyone ever used any of the blue loctite to help secure a bearing? You would have to lay it on its side to get the loctite to flow in. Probably best to research which bearings you got first.

[Bill Dufour]

Loctite makes a special for locking bearings into bores. Not sold in hardware stores.
I guess 609 the green stuff or something else in the 600 series
Bil lD.