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Thread: Live Center Question

  1. #1
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    Dec 2010
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    Live Center Question

    A bit of a novice question...I've noticed in watching many videos that some turners use a live center that is conical and comes to a sharp point, while many others seem to use a center that is blunt...looks like a threaded adapter. Wondering when one using the conical center versus the blunt end one...
    Thanks for the advice!
    Izzy

  2. #2
    This is my own experience: A conical point concentrates the force and allows you to really dig in. This provides good holding power when turning a large blank.

    Now, if you try to do that with a skinny piece like a spindle or table leg, you risk splitting the piece, and also causing the piece to bend and bow and vibrate, which would give you a lot of chatter. In this case, you would use your second, 'cup' center. That provides some holding power. I don't ratchet this down as much, but just enough for the 'cup' to engage.

    The reason it looks like a threaded adapter sometimes is that they often make a 2-in-1 live center where the cone point screws on to the cup center.

  3. #3
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    There are many types of live centers. Each has a specific purpose. If you are looking to buy, may I suggest the Nova live center kit as a good starting point. Very versatile and has several tips to choose from. It' reasonably priced compared to a one-way, which only gives you a couple of built in options without spend more money. I love my nova live center and I've made my own inserts for it out of wood and UHMW plastic. Just put a MT2 taper on it; keep it short; and it fits right in.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom lucas View Post
    There are many types of live centers. Each has a specific purpose. If you are looking to buy, may I suggest the Nova live center kit as a good starting point. Very versatile and has several tips to choose from. It' reasonably priced compared to a one-way, which only gives you a couple of built in options without spend more money. I love my nova live center and I've made my own inserts for it out of wood and UHMW plastic. Just put a MT2 taper on it; keep it short; and it fits right in.
    I agree with the Nova suggestion. I also make a variety of inserts. They are #2MT.

    live_center_MT2_IMG_7914.jpg

    This is what it comes with:

    Nova_live_center.jpg

    But to address your question, Izzy, I personally don't like the conical pointed live centers for some things since with a bit too much pressure they can split the wood, especially when turning a smaller diameter spindle. Not usually a problem with face work.

    The Oneway and clone centers use a cup with a point in the middle - this is less likely to split the wood and the point can even be removed for a gentler holding. The points have a #0MT and the socket can also hold shop-made adapters, as can the threads:

    live_center_MT0_C_IMG_7913.jpg live_center_threaded_IMG_7917.jpg

    However, my favorite live and drive centers for spindles are Steb centers. They also have a central point but it is spring loaded (a huge plus in my opinion) so they can't exert too much force. The "cup" is a series of points which grip well in a variety of situations. I keep live and drive Steb centers in two sizes.

    Steb_Sorby.jpg

    JKJ

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Inver Grove Heights, MN
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    I use the pointed cone for most turnings. If I do not want to mar the surface, or if I am concerned about splitting I use the cup center without the point. I have turned several points that fit the cup center for special use. For "questionable" wood that I really don't want coming loose on one end, I drill a cone shaped hole with a metal lathes center drill. That puts more surface area from the pointed cone into the wood.

    Others have given you good advise. Add my vote for the Nova system. My cup center came with my lathe. It is similar to the Nova, and I find the ability to make special points useful. Not the cheapest solution, but a good product. My pointed cone is a Harbor freight cheapy. I think it cost me $14 many years ago.

  6. #6
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    I created a video on live centers that might be helpful. https://youtu.be/5jNUqwr17iM
    God is great and life is good!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Peace View Post
    I created a video on live centers that might be helpful. https://youtu.be/5jNUqwr17iM
    MIke's video is great for beginners.

  8. #8
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    Many Thanks for all of this great information! Much appreciated! Especially now when normal get togethers/clubs are not meeting this Forum is a great resource!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom lucas View Post
    MIke's video is great for beginners.
    Agreed!! Watched it at lunch, then had his Nova live center review for dessert. That was helpful as well, an eye-opener on creative uses of the tail stock and live center.
    earl

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    The cone will continue to "dig"in when applying pressure to seat a drive center. You can limit the amount of dig in by using a small metal washer to limit the point exposure. I use that technique with the small point in the Nova live center to have small live center but limited point. Need something like 3/16" flat washer or smaller is my preference.

  11. #11
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    I just love that Nova center. It is a great tool.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Iwamoto View Post
    I just love that Nova center. It is a great tool.
    I bought my first one years ago. I almost panicked when I couldn't find it when unpacking from an out-of-state demo so I bougth a second one in case of a future disaster! (Waited until it was on sale.) That proved to be handy since I could leave one set up for one part of a project while using the other. I'm actually thinking of getting a third if I can talk my Lovely Bride into paying for it.

    JKJ

  13. #13
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    I ordered one this morning--one of the first projects will be to turn an MT-2 insert to replace my pen "mandrel saver"--it's louder than my vacuum cleaner!!
    earl

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earl McLain View Post
    I ordered one this morning--one of the first projects will be to turn an MT-2 insert to replace my pen "mandrel saver"--it's louder than my vacuum cleaner!!
    earl
    I made a little gauge from brass to help turn #2 morse tapers in wood. The small and large sizes fit the taper on one of my drive centers, the largest diameter right where it exits the headstock spindle and the smaller 1/2" back. I use 1/2" since that's the width of my parting tool so I can quickly mark two burnished marks on the work 1/2" apart with the corners of the parting tool.

    B02_morse_taper_comp.jpg

    Easier than making a gauge is setting two cheap vernier calipers, one for the small diameter and one for the large, still 1/2" apart. Part do each diameter then remove the waste between by eye. I find making a perfect fit is quicker if I make a shallow relief in the middle of the taper so it rides more on two rings than the entire taper.

    I use #2 morse tapers to hold thin spindles, first holding between centers, then holding the left end with the headstock spindle. Better then using a chuck. Making inserts for the live center I generally just chuck up a small block of wood.

    JKJ

  15. #15
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    I use the cup center 90% of the time, but have a screw on conical tip that I use whenever I need to center the tailstock on a pre-existing hole. When re-centering anything I pull the center pin of the cup center back so it doesn't engage, this allows you to move the workpiece around without always falling back into the center divot from the point. I've turned all manner of things for special holding purposes that slip on the end of my live center. I had an assortment of points for one of my live centers, but never found a use for most of them. Rubber Chucky makes a whole range of nice non-marking cones and such for use when re-mounting pieces.

    I use an old-fashioned cup dead center to drive most of my spindle work now, I actually like it better than the Steb center I used to use. I do not find the spring to be useful, it can apply too much pressure on a delicate spindle. It almost never slips, but when it does (as in a catch with the skew) that can be a very good thing. I have a larger diameter one (Robust, I think) that I've used to drive 20" pieces of tree trunk between centers without slipping. I've too often experienced the pronged type center chewing through a workpiece in a bad catch propelling chunks of wood around the shop.

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