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Thread: Graphite stains on wood

  1. #1
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    Graphite stains on wood

    I have a hollow form made out of poplar. When I tried to use graphite to transfer a pattern to it for carving or burning, the poplar absorbed the graphite into the grain and made a mess of the whole piece. It's so deep, I'll have to cut it out, and I'm not even sure that's going to work. Any good way to prevent this from happening? I haven't tried sand-n-seal or shellac. I want to paint with water colors afterward, and I also might use a poly top coat, or grain filler, etc. Basically, I don't want to add anything that's going to preclude whatever embellishments I choose to add.

    Maybe the answer is to choose a different species of wood. But that's what I have turned and ready, and I see it as a practice piece anyway.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom lucas View Post
    I have a hollow form made out of poplar. When I tried to use graphite to transfer a pattern to it for carving or burning, the poplar absorbed the graphite into the grain and made a mess of the whole piece. It's so deep, I'll have to cut it out, and I'm not even sure that's going to work. Any good way to prevent this from happening? I haven't tried sand-n-seal or shellac. I want to paint with water colors afterward, and I also might use a poly top coat, or grain filler, etc. Basically, I don't want to add anything that's going to preclude whatever embellishments I choose to add.

    Maybe the answer is to choose a different species of wood. But that's what I have turned and ready, and I see it as a practice piece anyway.
    What kind of graphite? Did you use graphite paper made for transfer? (not carbon paper)

    I've used graphite paper many times to transfer patterns to basswood for chip carving. I first drew the patterns on plain paper then taped graphite paper below. Note that this is different than carbon paper formerly used with typewriters - the amount of graphite on the paper is very small is gone from the backing paper with even light use, unlike carbon paper which can be reused repeatedly. This method was recommended by various chip carving books and web sites. I've also used a .3mm mechanical pencil directly on the basswood to draw patterns free-hand, like this:

    chip_ornament_CU.jpg

    Note that when tracing with graphite paper I used a very light pressure from a special tool with a very tiny diameter polished sphere on the end.

    I had no problem removing the marking of the graphite paper after carving. I used one of three erasers, a white "magic rub" eraser, a gum eraser, or in some cases, an abrasive eraser. Light sanding with 600 or 800 paper cleaned up anything nicely. (I back the sandpaper up with a soft eraser.)

    Note that I sanded the wood first with fine paper, usually 600. I figured this would smooth the wood and eliminate rough places where the graphite could be embedded.

    I understand some people use a wash of thin shellac on the wood before marking and carving but I haven't tried that.

    JKJ

  3. #3
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    Yes. True graphite paper, used as you describe: under a pattern, traced with a ball point pen. I've done this many times and have always been able to remove the markings with an eraser and never any widespread absorption like I'm seeing now. I also sanded smooth to 400 grit. I've since turned as much of it off as I could and coated with shellac. That prevented unwanted transfer as expected. Now will the shellac mess with coloring. I original burned the patterns on but now have gone to a simpler patter and will relief carve it. I will like have to use an opaque colorant. We shall see how it turns out.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom lucas View Post
    Yes. True graphite paper, used as you describe: under a pattern, traced with a ball point pen. I've done this many times and have always been able to remove the markings with an eraser and never any widespread absorption like I'm seeing now. I also sanded smooth to 400 grit. I've since turned as much of it off as I could and coated with shellac. That prevented unwanted transfer as expected. Now will the shellac mess with coloring. I original burned the patterns on but now have gone to a simpler patter and will relief carve it. I will like have to use an opaque colorant. We shall see how it turns out.
    Hope that works. When I seal with thinned shellac for other purposes, I use 3 parts alcohol to 1 part shellac or 1 part alcohol with 1 part shellac sanding sealer, lightly sanding with 600 paper after drying. I'll have to try that with graphite paper.

    One coat of thinned shellac shouldn't mess too much with opaque coloring. It might lighten a stain but adding thinned shellac to the carved areas should help keep the stain from bleeding under the sealed surface.

    I've never tried carving on poplar. You didn't say, but I'm assuming you meant yellow/tulip poplar not true poplar. I've carved a lot on fine-grained northern basswood and some on cherry, bradford pear, cocobolo, mahogany, walnut, olive, and holly.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post

    I've never tried carving on poplar. You didn't say, but I'm assuming you meant yellow/tulip poplar not true poplar. I've carved a lot on fine-grained northern basswood and some on cherry, bradford pear, cocobolo, mahogany, walnut, olive, and holly.

    It's yellow poplar. Carves pretty good.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post

    I've never tried carving on poplar. You didn't say, but I'm assuming you meant yellow/tulip poplar not true poplar. I've carved a lot on fine-grained northern basswood and some on cherry, bradford pear, cocobolo, mahogany, walnut, olive, and holly.

    It's yellow poplar. Carves pretty good. Wide face grain can be a bit hard. Pretty easy to avoid grain tear-out.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom lucas View Post
    It's yellow poplar. Carves pretty good. Wide face grain can be a bit hard. Pretty easy to avoid grain tear-out.
    I'll have to experiment. When I took a piece I turned and carved from bradford pear to a carving shop the owner said something like "that stuff is hard, are you insane?" Not knowing any better, I didn't think it was too difficult.

    JKJ

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