Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: best wood glue?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    207

    best wood glue?

    Not sure if this has been posted but this guy on Youtube tested wood glues and Elmer's Max beat Titebond most of the time. Elmer's Max is also cheaper. The advantage to Titebond 3 would be that I think it has a longer open time. Having said that I currently use Titebond 3 and find it very runny which is probably why it has a longer open time

    I have been using Titebond since I first saw Norm using it years ago (good ole Norm, a heck of a salesman) before that I used yellow Elmers.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-g3efGa3sI

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,529
    I like that guy’s videos. Seen a number of them.

    TBIII for me.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,889
    Hide glue is the best since it is reversible. Hot melt is best since it cures faster then epoxy. Define best?
    Bill D

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    207
    Best to me would be the strongest wood glue that I could find that had a long open time and was waterproof

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,846
    Like pretty much anything else, it really depends on what you're doing.

    It sounds like you want epoxy
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
    Posts
    3,047
    I use Titebond and Titebond Extend. Super long shelf life and they've never let me down. I keep a small bottle of Gorilla Glue and a couple tubes of Super Glue around for special occasions.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    North of I-84
    Posts
    82
    Bamboo rod makers use Epon epoxy since it has very long cure period and stiff vs. Titebond II/III made rods which are more flexible/less stiff. It does need heat to cure faster that plus the limited shelf life and straining out a few walnut shell bits plus cost might limit usefulness for general wood working. Then there's resorcinol glue. Waterproof, was used during WWII to build wood boats and airplanes, but it is purple. Purple is nice, but not for hidden glue lines.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,927
    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Crout View Post
    Best to me would be the strongest wood glue that I could find that had a long open time and was waterproof
    Given that criteria, Resocinol, followed by a Marine specific epoxy.
    Once you want "waterproof", you've moved out of PVA glues.

    The following,on this topic, is by Bob Smalser.
    It's well worth reading through all of it.
    I do not know if Bob is still with us, but Bob made boats, in an outside shop, in the Pacific Northwest. He knows about "waterproof" with respect to adhesives.

    https://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthr...able&styleid=4
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 08-06-2020 at 4:00 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  9. #9
    There are endless conversations in threads here and elsewhere with regards to Titebond (especially 3) and as has been stated the topic can get deep but TB 3 is by far not the best all around glue even though a lot of people think if 1 is good 3 has got to be better. That combined with TB marketing TB3 as "ultimate" doesnt help the situation. Its terribly heat compromised, its the worst glue in the world for creep, and the list goes on. Some like it because it supposedly sands better, some only want one glue in their shop. We abandoned TB 3 a long time ago and never use it at all. Our day to day work is with TB original or Super when we can get it but open time is not on my hot list as glueups are generally very fast. If we do need open time its Extended. Beyond that resorcinol, UF, epoxy, as the need demands. There really is no one good all around wood glue.

    Searching the archives here and anywhere you can find will land you reams of information on the subject.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kapolei Hawaii
    Posts
    3,236
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post

    Searching the archives here and anywhere you can find will land you reams of information on the subject.
    +1. I initially thought oh noooo, not another best wood glue thread. This one is good though, (funny) since the best wood glue turns out to be epoxy.

    I'm a TB 1 user.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    I clamp my Tight Bond joints and leave the joint alone over night. I've never had a failure.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northwest Indiana
    Posts
    957
    I’ve always heard about the weakness of end grain to end grain...so it was interesting to see the strength of that part of his test.
    earl

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    On the edge of Pisgah National Forest
    Posts
    236
    Tonight's cliche: Horses for courses

    TB3 runs dead last for me because it dries so hard puts a dent in your scraper or chisel.

    With hot hide glue you can veneer your driveway without clamps and coating the face as well as the back helps the hammer work out any waves or bubbles. And it's easily reversible. Not that strong for joints, though.

    Good ole Elmer's white is strong and gives long open time. Titebond Original is a toss up.

    PPR is the king of veneer glues but requires mogambo clamping for larger projects. The most creep resistant and will not bleed through.

    I'm using epoxy more and more, System 3, because of it's availability in hobby size pints. I tint it with the same artists colors I use for veneer repair. The gap filling properties are great for joints like the rack project I just completed where any visible gaps become hidden.

    Yellow's like Titebond2 are essentially worthless unless you're building a Yellow Submarine. Even then it's water resistant, not water proof. Short open time.
    Nostalgia isn't what it used to be

  14. #14
    I use Titebond 1 for everything I don't have a reason to use another glue for. If I need long open time or have a concern about glue showing up under a finish, I use Liquid Hide Glue. If I need water resistant, I usually use Titebond 3 although I keep TB2 on hand as well. I did have a hot hide glue phase, but I haven't used it for a few years now. I rarely have a need for any other adhesive in woodworking.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,927
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    There really is no one good all around wood glue.

    Searching the archives here and anywhere you can find will land you reams of information on the subject.
    Could not agree more!
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •