I'm using a plunge router to cut mortises. The tendons are being cut on a tablesaw using a tendon jig.
How do you recommend rounding over the corners of the tendons to fit the mortises? Tools? Technique?
Thanks.
Bob
I'm using a plunge router to cut mortises. The tendons are being cut on a tablesaw using a tendon jig.
How do you recommend rounding over the corners of the tendons to fit the mortises? Tools? Technique?
Thanks.
Bob
"tenons" is the search tern to use.
Bill D
during an emergency room visit a new nurse kept trying to put the morphine line needle into a tendon instead of a vane. I wont end up confusing tendons and Tennons. Had to ask for a new nurse as that was not going to end up working well.
There is lots of info and ways to approach what you want likely in a search function. Even leave the ends is possible, or square your mortises, or round your tennon. With a ton to do a laminate trimmer would do most with a bit of chisel clean up., file or or or depends on how many, your strength is from your side to side end grain gluing,
Chisel and hammer. It only takes a few chops. There is really no need for the tenons to match the curve of the mortise.
If you have lots to do, look for this video by Philip Morley Furniture on YouTube. It's about using the bandsaw to make tenons, but the part you want begins at 8:59.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoUI...index=2&t=589s
You'll need a router table.
Good luck.
Last edited by Bob Jones 5443; 08-05-2020 at 2:44 PM.
Wait a minute . . . did you misspell vein on purpose or was that a really subtle display of humor?
To the OP: I use a chisel on smaller tenons and may resort to a rasp on larger.
Rounding a tenon.JPG
Last edited by glenn bradley; 08-05-2020 at 2:55 PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I typed it both ways, then realized I was avoiding paperwork that was behind so just left it as last typed. Good thing is you understand either way.
Mongo
"Mongo just pawn in game of life"
I never round the ends of squared tenons. I make the tenon the length of the flat sides of the mortise. The strength of a mortise and mating tenon is in the quality of fit between them and not in the rounded ends. I leave the rounded mortise ends empty. It leaves a good place for the excess glue to go. I've been doing this for about 50 years, and never had a M&T joint failure.
I normally make loose tenons, but on either cut or loose I put a 45 degree chamfer on the edges. It still locates nicely, and gives a gap to let excess glue come up and not try and trap it in the bottom of the joint.
You could be a masochist and square your mortises. It starts being enjoyable once you give in to the suffering.
I have a hollow chisel mortiser but I never use it since getting a domino. I make up tenon stock in advance out of scraps and I round over the edges on my router table. The time required is almost all setup and that isn't much. It is safer to do fairly long pieces this way, at least a few inches. But it is fast and easy and produces nice fitting tenons. I often plunge the domino tool repeatedly to get longer mortises and then make up tenons to match. I've done tenons over 3 inches wide with it. Edges were rounded over in the router table.
I've used a rasp too but I had to trim the edge with a chisel. It might be a little quicker than the router table but not a lot.
I enjoy making single, double, triple, or quadruple rounded tenons and mortises perfectly with my Leigh FMT jig guiding my router. Very fast. Many sizes. Also makes square tenons and works well for loose tenons.
If the tenon is a "Traditional" tenon that's part of the component, use a rasp to round it over quickly, being careful at the shoulder. It doesn't need to be perfect. For loose tenons, round the stock at the router table before cutting to length.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Sharp chisel works for me