Was it just my imagination?

[Ted Calver]

This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-M150C.../dp/B00AM5XB5O

Thanks, Winston. That one looks nice for my purposes. Mind also sharing which camera you used?

[Mike Brady]

Not to rain on the parade, but sharpening a chisel with the buffer is a good way to end up with the chisel imbedded in your face.

[Winston Chang]

Thanks, Winston. That one looks nice for my purposes. Mind also sharing which camera you used?

I just used my phone (iPhone 11 Pro) and got a microscope mount for it.

This is the mount. Whereas the microscope itself seemed like a bargain -- $75 for a real microscope, not a kid's toy -- this mount seems overpriced, at $26 for some plastic. But it does the job and it doesn't look like there are a lot of other options.
https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Microsc.../dp/B07412S738

[ken hatch]

I had similar doubts, hearing about this.

I was taught to freehand hone convex bevels on chisels and plane irons. This approach saves a few steps.
It seems to work. The time savings are considerable.

I can't manage the same results on plane irons as chisels but I have an example from the source of this idea - I know it is possible.

I think it might bridge the chasm for those starting out, but users who already have sharp tools might not want to "retrace their steps".

Jim,

I've questioned my sanity for even wandering down this path but early results tell me that it might not be so dumb.

For the person just starting or struggling with sharpening it could be one of those techniques that are life changing. Now my question is what do I do with all my stones when all I need is a Med India or a Washita. Winston's use of a cordless drill to buff was really an inspiration, it could mean when I'm traveling with the portable bench all the sharpening gear I need is the same India or Washita and a buffing wheel to go on the cordless drill.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

it could mean when I'm traveling with the portable bench all the sharpening gear I need is the same India or Washita and a buffing wheel to go on the cordless drill.

Don't forget a battery charger for the cordless drill.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Don't forget a battery charger for the cordless drill.

jtk

Jim,

LOL, it lives in the motorhome along with the drill . But it would be just like me to leave it behind.

ken

[Todd Zucker]

Great video. I had been reading all of the different threads on both forums over the past couple of weeks, but that put it all together. I finally have some free time, and I’m going to try it this weekend.

[Jim Koepke]

My question is what will the edge profile look like after resharpening (reunicorning?) 10 or 20 times?

Time may turn this into a new revolution for woodworking or it may just be another way to get something sharp.

There won't be any hurry to sell my stones. If some nice ones come up for sale, maybe some more will be purchased.

jtk

[Winston Chang]

My question is what will the edge profile look like after resharpening (reunicorning?) 10 or 20 times?

Every time you sharpen, your hone the flat part of the bevel until you get a burr, so it removes the tiny rounded portion every time. (This takes about the same amount of time effort as resharpening a normally-sharpened chisel to remove all the damage, maybe slightly more.) So it should look the same on the 20th time as it does on the first.

[Jim Koepke]

Every time you sharpen, your hone the flat part of the bevel until you get a burr, so it removes the tiny rounded portion every time. (This takes about the same amount of time effort as resharpening a normally-sharpened chisel to remove all the damage, maybe slightly more.) So it should look the same on the 20th time as it does on the first.

Estimating from your image:

Unicorn Edge.jpg

That looks like it could be almost 5/10,000" of metal to remove. It doesn't sound like a lot, but it is likely more than my normal sharpening of a flat bevel without a secondary bevel.

It may be saving a few minutes at one end of the process and adding it back at the other end.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Estimating from your image:

Unicorn Edge.jpg

That looks like it could be almost 5/10,000" of metal to remove. It doesn't sound like a lot, but it is likely more than my normal sharpening of a flat bevel without a secondary bevel.

It may be saving a few minutes at one end of the process and adding it back at the other end.

jtk

Jim,

First let me say I'm not completely sold on the buffing process but early tests tell me it is likely to offer value in both time saved and longevity of the cutting edge. If you are like me my sharpening is a three step process, first grind to get rid of the wear, hone to lessen the scratches left by grinding, and finally polishing to refine the cutting edge. The Unicorn process cuts out the honing stage and goes directly to the polishing stage and that is quickly done with the buffer, much faster than working the edge with a slow polishing stone. In addition the buffer slightly increases the cutting angle without decreasing sharpness and gives a smoother cutting edge than just a polishing stone. A lot of win, win if indeed it works as advertised. So far my test indicate it does. That said my honing and polishing stones are not for sale...yet.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

If you are like me my sharpening is a three step process, first grind to get rid of the wear, hone to lessen the scratches left by grinding, and finally polishing to refine the cutting edge.

My first step on a blade is rarely grinding. More often it is on a hard Arkansas followed by black Arkansas then a strop. This usually takes less time than setting up the grinder. If using water stones it is often a 4000 stone followed by an 8000 and a strop. Of course if the edge has heavy chipping from hitting a knot then the work may be started on a coarser stone.

Also from Winston's page > https://chisel-test.netlify.app <:

I actually ran two tests with a stropped chisel. With the first test, I didn’t get quite the edge durability that I had hoped for, so I honed it and stropped it again, but this time I slathered on more of the green compound, and I stropped more times – maybe 20 or so.

The result: it held up almost as well as when buffed. It’s possible that more stropping, or stropping at a higher angle, would have done better, but I don’t know for sure. It’s still miles ahead of the flat-honed chisel, and close enough to the buffed chisel that I think it’s a usable alternative.

It seems maybe regular sharpening followed by stropping will also produce an edge as good as the unicorn edge.

jtk

[Tom Trees]

Jim,

LOL, it lives in the motorhome along with the drill . But it would be just like me to leave it behind.

ken

Those black abrasion marks are from when I applied the Autosol on the fan belt Doc, and
the slice came from a new bevel technique that I was reading about on t'internet...

No I wasn't in any sort of fight club scenario, Honest!

[Gary Focht]

“ My first step on a blade is rarely grinding. More often it is on a hard Arkansas followed by black Arkansas then a strop. This usually takes less time than setting up the grinder. If using water stones it is often a 4000 stone followed by an 8000 and a strop. Of course if the edge has heavy chipping from hitting a knot then the work may be started on a coarser stone.”

Jim,

The unicorn would be the occasional grind to 20 degrees or so, only when necessary. Typically you would hone a secondary bevel of 23 degrees on a 1000 grit and then buff. So most sharpenings are a 1000 grit until a burr, then buff if I understand it. This would be faster than the routine of 4000, 8000, strop.

[ken hatch]

Those black abrasion marks are from when I applied the Autosol on the fan belt Doc, and
the slice came from a new bevel technique that I was reading about on t'internet...

No I wasn't in any sort of fight club scenario, Honest!

Tom,

Too funny .

ken