Was it just my imagination?

[Jim Koepke]

Was there a recent post on the "Unicorn Edge" or some such?

Having looked at another forum to see what this was about, it was put on a back burner to give a try.

Finally had a plane blade to give it a try.

It did provide a very good edge able to make an incredibly thin shaving on a piece of pine.

Though there is a possibility this could be done in a way to be detrimental to the edge, like all sharpening that is a matter of the person being in control of things.

My question, was there ever an explanation of choosing "Unicorn Edge" as a name or was it just an obvious choice for the likelihood of ever seeing one?

jtk

[Bill White]

Lots of response to the process. Vids as well. Might wanna check it out when ya have the time.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

It was first called the Weaver Bevel, after David Weaver, who was the one who tried out the concept and posted about it. Later he felt uncomfortable with having his name attached to the concept and proposed the name Unicorn Profile because it was like chasing one and never seeing it. He had also mentioned that carvers may have been using this concept in their sharpening method(s).

+1 on what Bill said.

[Jim Koepke]

Lots of response to the process. Vids as well. Might wanna check it out when ya have the time.

Yes, some of my time was spent watching David's video.

Did someone start a thread on the subject on SMC?

Also, has anyone else here given it a go?

jtk

[David Bassett]

... Did someone start a thread on the subject on SMC? ...

Jim, it's been mentioned (at least) a couple times here:

Bevels

Pm-v11 at 20*

Question re: Power Stropping with a buffing Wheel

Wheels for Grinder? Gee Whilickers. Which ones?

Derek, in the latest (fourth) link, describes trying it and the success he's had.

I'd suggest the discussion is better not further fragmented. If fact I hope there is a summary article written once all the various research threads run their course. It's really hard to keep track of what works and what doesn't (and when and where) right now.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks David, it seems like all the threads have been leading to various shades of sharpening lately.

jtk

[scott lipscomb]

There is a good thread on the subject over at the Australian forum under the subforum "sharpening".

[Jim Koepke]

There is a good thread on the subject over at the Australian forum under the subform "sharpening".

Thanks Scott, if time allows me it will be visited.

jtk

[Eric Rathhaus]

Jim - Winston Chang has a great video on using the buffer for the unicorn edge. Here's a link: https://vimeo.com/444232624

[Jim Koepke]

Jim - Winston Chang has a great video on using the buffer for the unicorn edge. Here's a link: https://vimeo.com/444232624

Thanks Eric, instead of watching videos my buffing wheel was set up on my lathe to give this a whirl. Yesterday it was quite successful with a blade from a #3. Today it was tried on a #4-1/2 blade.

The buffing wheel is 6" attached to a block of wood with a carriage bolt. This was done so it would be easy to chuck it up in the lathe.

It is kind of like a super strop.

Since the buffer is a wheel, it would seem it might be creating a micro hollow stropping at the edge of the bevel.

Not a lot of testing or comparison was done. A few shavings were taken with the #4-1/2 revealing a problem with the plane that needs to be addressed.

This would take some time testing and comparing to evaluate. It may be useful for some. For me not having a permanent set up for a buffer, it may be quicker to continue to hone and strop.

jtk

[Eric Rathhaus]

The time savings is one of the advantages for this approach. They only use one medium grit stone, move to the buffer, and get edges that are super sharp and much more durable than sharpening flat.

[Winston Chang]

I'm obviously biased, but I really suggest taking the time to watch the video. If you prefer just to read, though, I put much of the same information here: https://chisel-test.netlify.app/

Using a buffer to sharpen chisels is now, to me, a no-brainer -- it is better in every way than just using stones. And I no longer feel the need to search for chisels with better steel -- even a very inexpensive chisel sharpened this way holds up much, much better than the most expensive chisel sharpened the "normal" way. That's not a conclusion I expected to reach when I started testing it out, after reading a few posts about it.

With plane blades, more care needs to be taken to avoid clearance issues, and the durability advantage is significantly less than it is for chisels. However, the resulting surface quality is very high due to the smooth uniform edge. I haven't experimented much with plane blades, but David Weaver has, and he has written about it a bit in the WoodCentral forums.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Winston, I really enjoyed your video. The microscopic photos are a great! Bill T also talks about a light buffing on the back as being an antidote to spending time micro-adjusting the cap iron. I'm excited to try it. I've been using microfilm on glass, which is great for a beginner but does grows expensive over time. If I just use one or two grits, then I won't reach a point where staying with this approach is too expensive.

[Erich Weidner]

I'm obviously biased, but I really suggest taking the time to watch the video. If you prefer just to read, though, I put much of the same information here: https://chisel-test.netlify.app/

Did you do a durability test on the PM-V11? Does the % durability improvement you demonstrated on the video for the Buck Bros. cheapo apply to the PM-V11?
Also curious if you have objective data. (Like BB chisel on stones dulled at 10 pares and lasted 50 with the unicorn method)

Very cool video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. I liked seeing the microscope photos.

[Andrew Hughes]

I don’t agree with the buffer on a simple straight. The shape is too important the last thing you want is what a buffer delivers. Just a leather strop with good compound is perfectly suitable.
For carving chisels it’s great you want a apple seed edge on one side. So you can scoop out wood.
A buffer is a must have for a spoon knife one still has to be careful not to over do it because it very difficult shallow out the bevel. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.