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Thread: LN Toothed Plane Blade?

  1. #1
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    LN Toothed Plane Blade?

    I was flattening a piece of QSWO yesterday that had some swirly grain. It's an 18 x 18 glue up for the top of a taboret. I was getting some tear out so I changed to my toothed blade for the first time. This thing can really hog off the stock. I also found that the teeth are very fragile and don't care for knots . Thank goodness there wasn't damage that couldn't be repaired with a good sharpening.

    Suggestions on a good durable cutting angle?
    Last edited by Rob Luter; 08-03-2020 at 7:46 AM.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  2. #2
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    This may be incorrect, my understanding of the use for a toothing blade isn't so much to "hog off the stock" as it is to condition the surface for gluing or to have a textured surface.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
    I think traditionally, toothing planes were used to prep surfaces for veneering. More recently, folks have made a case for them being useful in the prep of challenging stock, where they can be used pretty aggressively but not result in catestrophic teaout. I can't speak from experience - a toothed blade for my LN low angle jack is on my wish list but it hasn't floated to the top.

  4. #4
    I use LN toothed blades but I am never in "hog mode" when I do. I'm just trying to get flat without tear out in trying circumstances.

  5. #5
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    From the LN Website: "Toothed blades have small chisel-like teeth .030" (.762mm) wide, and spaced .030" apart. They are used for heavy stock removal in difficult grain. Follow with a fine-set Smoothing Plane."

    I'm here to tell you that prior to the cutting edge giving it up, this iron was really eating through the oak.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  6. #6
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    Perhaps toothed planes were for surface prep for veneering, but that just doesn't make much sense to me. I have been hammering veneering without toothed blades for quite some time ( including some curved work ) without failure using hot hide glue. And isn't maximum contact between the two wood surfaces what we are after? Creating ridges with potential air pockets seem counterintuitive.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    I was flattening a piece of QSWO yesterday that had some swirly grain. It's an 18 x 18 glue up for the top of a taboret. I was getting some tear out so I changed to my toothed blade for the first time. This thing can really hog off the stock. I also found that the teeth are very fragile and don't care for knots . Thank goodness there wasn't damage that couldn't be repaired with a good sharpening.

    Suggestions on a good durable cutting angle?
    I purchased a toothed blade exactly because it was suggested (LN site and youtube videos) to use it to remove big shanks of wood and as you, I wasn´t comfortable with its (apparently) fragile teeth, so I decided to maintain it only for the traditional use to create a not so smooth surface and to go to a cambered blade for scrubbing as I posted recently at https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....84#post3042684

    My suggestion is to go to a cambered blade and maintain your peace of mind.
    All the best.

    Osvaldo.

  8. #8
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    I have Lee Valley Veritas irons.
    See this site.

    https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sear...as+plane+irons

  9. #9
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    I, too, was surprised at the toothed blades hogging capability in the 62. I used it after running a scrub plane over the qswo. I backed off it pretty quickly as the job didn't call for much. it is nice to have in the kit.

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