[OP]
Contributor
Grizzly has had for a while a new planer , G0891 / G0890 , that don't have bed rollers . Anybody seen one or have info on it ? Looks like a 15" thats been around for years , just no bed rollers . Just wondering about the design change reasoning . Snipe is adjusted/ reduced by bed and feed rollers , I thought . What am I missing here ?
Contributor
Most people lower the bed rollers below the table, because they cause snipe. Think about it - the board basically rocks from the rollers to the bed as it goes though the planer, causing snipe at the beginning and end of the board.
[OP]
Contributor
That does make sense . Thanks .
Contributor
Bed rollers are for planing wet, resinous or rough wood.
In furniture making wood is normally dry, jointed and not resinous.....Regards, Rod.
Frequently waxing the bed negates the need for rollers with dried wood. I just scribble on the bed with a candle as needed. Sometimes that is as often as every 10 or 15 lineal feet if the stock is grippy.
Member
I was considering this machine as well before I bought a smaller lunchbox to get me by.
if you look at the weight, it’s over 200 lbs less than other 15 Inch planers. May be good for a garage shop with less weight and better mobility. I would miss the top return rollers. Seems to get good reviews on grizzly.
Member
I have had the very similar G0815 for a couple years. Upgraded from a lunchbox for my hobby shop. I really like the fixed outfeed for this style because it allowed me to integrate it with my lumber rack to get a built- in 12' roller outfeed. Snipe is minimal if you lift the board up a bit going into the cut. It is one of the most used tools I have and I would buy it again in a heartbeat.
Member
Lifting the board.......
Best trick I learned when using a planer. Sure makes the resulting cuts a WHOLE lot better.
On the other hand, I still have five fingers.
Contributor
Does this really work? I'm having problem with snipe, and I'm tiered of trying to set everything within .002/3/4 tolerance. If one has a well waxed table, does one really need the table rollers up??Originally Posted by Matt Day
Thx in advance.
Contributor
Correct. For a finish planer the rollers can be set below the table as long as you keep a lubricated bed to reduce friction. If you notice the board is stopping occasionally or needs apish to get through, likely you need to wax/lubricate it. I use Gulf canning wax. A few rubs of the bar on the bed followed by a rag to run it in and it’s done. One package from the grocery store lasts for about a decade.
Contributor
Probably depends on the planer. On my Parks, I have found I can set the pressure bar lower with the bed rollers set at .006" above the table. Still need the paraffin like Matt says.
My big old Monarch has powered bed rollers that I set around .012". I set the pressure bar with the machine running so the stock just passes. No problem with snipe.
I keep a block of paraffin next to both planers and give the in and out tables a rub frequently.
Last edited by Bradley Gray; 08-06-2020 at 4:34 PM.
Contributor
So, I only plain rough cut lumber, so will lowering the rollers still work?
Contributor
Do you joint one side first? If so, lowering them should work. And this is the proper way to mill lumber. Joint to get one flat surface, the plane the other side parallel.
If you don’t joint one side, you’ve got a rough sawn face on the bed and will likely need the bed rollers to keep the wood moving through the planer.
Contributor
When I had a planer with bed rollers they were set below the table. Planers should be capable of producing work with no snipe if set correctly.
If the planer cannot control the wood when entering or exiting the planer, you get snipe.............Rod.
Contributor
You don't joint one face before planing?
Regards, Rod.
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