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Thread: Dust Collection - Hanging Pipe

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
    Posts
    645
    This is what I used. Not the cheapest option, but they work pretty much as advertised, for different diameters of ducting in the same system. I also like that they can be used on the ceiling or the wall.

    https://woodworker.com/4-fazbracket-...su-140-483.asp
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    A pro HVAC friend helped me design/install my DC metal ducting(was able to score commercial grade fittings and wholesale pricing) and in the commercial world they use 1" wide strapping-same gauge as the perforated "plumbers tape". It comes in a 50'(??) roll, you pull out and tin snip the length you need, punch a hole in each end(harbor freight sheet metal punch~~ $15), and drywall screw to the joist, etc. For vertical drops I cut a radius in 2X scraps to manage lateral movement/stability and then screwed to the wall(beams in my case). Very simple to do, cheaper than the plumbers tape, and if aesthetics are a concern they match the metal dusting-10' ceilngs a non issue. For joint sealing we used a paint on duct sealer that is a lot cheaper and much easier to apply that foil duct tape. Not pretty but it is water based so it cleans up easily and you just pitch the 1" disposable brush. I just reconfigured some of my 20 yr old ducting and the joints separate easily.Hope that helps.

  3. #18
    I used pipe strap. Fast, cheap, simple, and effective. If you are worried about looks, it doesn't take much effort to make it look neat. It's a workshop, not a church.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    832
    92" ceiling, no other choice.

    Most are fixed in place. This is one of a pair that can be slid off the pins to get a section down to open the garage door. The bases were made to span the joists for each location. Way too much time wasted on it, but at least it was a useful project.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Wes Grass; 08-03-2020 at 1:31 PM.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Grass View Post
    92" ceiling, no other choice.

    Most are fixed in place. This is one of a pair that can be slid off the pins to get a section down to open the garage door. The bases were made to span the joists for each location. Way too much time wasted on it, but at least it was a useful project.

    Nicely done Wes! Sure beats the perforated metal strap look.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    Quote Originally Posted by Dick Mahany View Post
    I used 3/4" perforated metal hanging strap from the the local home center. Inexpensive and worked well.
    That was what I used with at lag bolt at ceiling and machine screw and nut to make loop at hanging duct. To hang close to ceiling, use a couple of pan head screws each side. Duct is light and strap is cheap.

  7. #22
    I know this was overkill but I made my own pipe hangers. 1/8" x 3/4" flat bar and I made a 6" jig to form the round bottom section, and then used a metal bending jig in a vise to form the top piece. I drilled holes to use 3/8" rod to connect the pieces together and to hang from the ceiling.

    The ceiling rafters are exposed in my shop so I used unistrut across the joists and this gave me the flexibility to adjust/move them as needed. I like the industrial look as well. I couldn't bring myself to pay for these and even though making them took probably too long for most, I'm happy with the results.

    IMG_2713.jpg IMG_2714.jpg IMG_2716.jpg

    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Beaupre View Post
    I know this was overkill but I made my own pipe hangers. 1/8" x 3/4" flat bar and I made a 6" jig to form the round bottom section, and then used a metal bending jig in a vise to form the top piece. I drilled holes to use 3/8" rod to connect the pieces together and to hang from the ceiling.

    The ceiling rafters are exposed in my shop so I used unistrut across the joists and this gave me the flexibility to adjust/move them as needed. I like the industrial look as well. I couldn't bring myself to pay for these and even though making them took probably too long for most, I'm happy with the results.

    IMG_2713.jpg IMG_2714.jpg IMG_2716.jpg


    Nice job Rob! I like the industrial look too.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    832
    Yeah, that's awesome.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Jerico Springs, MO
    Posts
    47

    Zip-ties and hooks

    My shop ceiling is used barn-tin and my pipe at the ceiling is 6" HVAC. I screwed hooks into the joists and then hung my ducts via long zip-ties left over from a heating and cooling job - cheap, neat, easy, and effective.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    If you have access to joists just install screw eyes and hang with wire. Quick, easy, cheap, inconspicuous, easily revised...

  12. #27
    We begrudgingly use this stuff called "gripple". I prefer "lollipop" hangers. Our standard hanger is 1" x 16 ga flat bar. If you know what you're doing, the lollipops take the same amount of time, but are significantly cheaper than "gripple". Google "bohn-combi"

  13. #28
    Jack chain to a ceiling wire eye lag.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    I ran borg 1x4 boards along the paths I knew I wanted ducting and then screws quick release pipe clamps to them and those hold the metal ducting to the walls. Pretty darn rigid once its all tightened down. Been up for years now.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

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