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Thread: Question re: Power Stropping with a buffing Wheel

  1. #1
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    Question re: Power Stropping with a buffing Wheel

    David Weaver's experiments have rekindled an interest in power Stropping. I am familiar with power stropping using a leather belt loaded with green compound and find thatm for mem it works well on long edges (knives) and not so much for woodworking edges.

    Since the concept intrigues me (rapid production of a superior edge) and I lack a buffing wheel, I need to ask a question.

    What is the desirable buffing wheel type and size for this approach?

    I have quite a few sub-par chisels with which to practise.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Putnam View Post
    David Weaver's experiments have rekindled an interest in power Stropping. I am familiar with power stropping using a leather belt loaded with green compound and find thatm for mem it works well on long edges (knives) and not so much for woodworking edges.

    Since the concept intrigues me (rapid production of a superior edge) and I lack a buffing wheel, I need to ask a question.

    What is the desirable buffing wheel type and size for this approach?

    I have quite a few sub-par chisels with which to practise.
    Curt,

    As to type I think from my reading a stitched cotton one is the one David is using but I could be mistaken. My guess either a 6" or 8" would work but again I'm just starting to see if I can duplicate David's results.

    ken

  3. #3
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    Maybe go to where the experimentation is being done to ask about results & conclusions?

    That said, one of the experimenters is using a Ryobi Metal Buffing 7 piece Kit from HD ($10) in a cordless drill. That's probably the best solution to trying it out, since it's cheap.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Putnam View Post
    David Weaver's experiments have rekindled an interest in power Stropping. I am familiar with power stropping using a leather belt loaded with green compound and find thatm for mem it works well on long edges (knives) and not so much for woodworking edges.

    Since the concept intrigues me (rapid production of a superior edge) and I lack a buffing wheel, I need to ask a question.

    What is the desirable buffing wheel type and size for this approach?

    I have quite a few sub-par chisels with which to practise.
    Hi Curt

    I posted on this here in a recent thread: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....32#post3041432

    Short version ...

    When trying out a powered strop, I used a 6" wheel loaded with green compound because I had it - it was not specifically set up for the method as advocated by David (see my link). The loaded strop is not what is recommended, but it worked. And frankly, I believe that minor variations will work, which indicates that one need not get OCD here.

    For power I used a variable speed lathe and ran it at 1450 rpm, which is a half-speed bench grinder in Oz ....



    Once convinced that this worked for chisels and there was a significant improvement in the edge, I purchased a second half-speed grinder for a buffer (I was planning on getting another at some stage anyway for shaping blades and lathe chisels). The wheel here is new, an 8" this time, and lightly covered in green compound. To prepare the new wheel, which is stitched, I drizzled a little baby oil over the surface, and touched it with the green crayon to charge the surface - lightly. The baby oil melts the crayon. This is a little messy at first, so lay down newspaper.

    The new look sharpening centre. The unused and rusty Tormek has gone ..



    To quote David, the Unicorn method involves ...

    It's simply this:
    * grind a primary bevel at 20 degrees
    * hone (with a medium stone) a secondary bevel around 3 degrees higher (not precise, just a little higher). No wasting time with wire edges or anything ,just leave the wire edge in place
    * buff the chisel briskly in a cotton buff (charged with any reasonable buffing bar) on a buffer for about 5 seconds held about 45 degrees to the buffer wheel and moved about just a little. A light touch of the back of the chisel on the very fluffy outside corner of the wheel will remove any swarf or wax stuck around the back side”.


    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Bassett View Post
    Maybe go to where the experimentation is being done to ask about results & conclusions?

    That said, one of the experimenters is using a Ryobi Metal Buffing 7 piece Kit from HD ($10) in a cordless drill. That's probably the best solution to trying it out, since it's cheap.
    Thanks David. I just spent $9 for a 6" wheel for my grinder. It is full speed so a light and quick touch is required. The thing that intrigues me is the apparent lack of angular precision that is (not) required.

  6. #6
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    Hi Derek,

    Thanks for again posting the pics. I also appreciate the summary of the "Unicorn" method. I did read through the threads (and the one on mortising technique.) It's good to know that what I think I gleaned from all that reading is apparently correct. Interestingly, I, too, have some Sorby chisels just because the way they feel in my hand absolutely entrances me.

    Anyway, if the method produces an eminently usable edge as quickly as he demonstrated in the video, then it will truly be worthy of the Unicorn appellation. Your tests corroborate DW's results and that is sufficient for me. As I said above, my expenditure amounts to $9.

    Later, Curt

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