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Thread: How to prepare diamond stones for use?

  1. #1

    How to prepare diamond stones for use?

    I recently purchased a three stone (300,600,1200) Ultra Sharp diamond stone sharpening kit. I have not used any of them yet.Is there anything I should do to the stones before using them? Also, should I lubricate them before putting them to work? Do I need to clean them after use? Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    I do not usually "break-in" my stones unless I notice something is a problem. I also do not let my first thing to use on them be something that I care a lot about.

    I also do not know much about the stones that you purchased.

    All that said, this is the official response from DMT on how to break-in a diamond stone:

    Brand new stones are not yet broken-in straight out of the packaging. We advise that you break in all stones initially before it can start sharpening to the intended degree. Please note that the extra-fine and extra-extra-fine grit stones have longer break-in periods.


    We would advise to always break it in before first use, by using a scrap piece of metal and running it over the stone with minimal pressure in a figure-8 motion across the entire surface. You should be able to hear an audible difference in the way the metal is scratching against the stone once it is broken in.
    I was chatting with them because I had one specific spot on one of my stones that was sticking up enough that it would catch on things. The break-in did not get rid of it. It was not sufficient for me to be able to see it, but everything would catch on it. I finally just hit it sideways and it ripped out I believe because then the problem went away and the stone started acting as I expected. I could not see where it came out either so I am unsure what was really going on or really what happened when I "fixed" it.

    As for prep? Well, you can use it dry or wet. I prefer wet myself.

    Some here use water. Some use water with some dawn soap (or similar) in it. I have used Gatco honing fluid but I usually use Smiths honing fluid. Neither are an oil. I am just looking for something to remove what the stone removes and I prefer the "feel". Of course at this point, it is what I am used to.

  3. #3
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    Sorry, forgot to mention "clean-up" afterwards. Much depends on how you choose to use the stones. If you use them dry, then try to remove what is left behind. I would usually swipe them with a paper towel (which rubs against the diamonds) or use a brush to clean them.... I suppose you could vacuum them, never tried it though.

    When I used water, I would rinse in hot water (because I expected it to dry faster, but not boiling) then blot dry to try and avoid rust, but I still had rust which I was told (here) was probably metal from the blades that I sharpened.

    When I use something else, I am not worried about rust because Smith's has a rust inhibitor, but I wipe lightly and blot it with paper towel.

    Don't put them away wet from water (in my opinion).

  4. #4
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    I use a spritz of water. I have used other lubricants and all seem to work fine but, no better.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
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    I’ve been gradually converting from water to DMT diamond stones and couldn’t be happier. No mess, no fuss (endless flattening). I lubricate my stones with a mixture of water and a few drops of Dawn dishwashing soap in a small spray bottle. Cleanup is with a fingernail brush under warm running water, patting dry with a paper towel and setting it aside to thoroughly air dry. I, too, believe the trace of rust residue is from the metal removed from the tools I sharpen rather than the stone itself. I finish my blades on an 8000 grit waterstone and stropping.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    “Breaking in” means leveling the surface, lowering the stray high diamond tips.

    Several years ago I purchased Eze-lap diamond stones in Coarse (275 grit) and Fine (600 grit) along with Medium and Ultra Fine Spyderco ceramic stones. The diamond stones did double duty by being used to flatten the Spyderco stones, and this process served to break them in. It actually took another year of use before the Fine cut the way I wanted (leaving a smoother finish, in place of a 1000 grit waterstone).

    I have one other diamond stone, another Eze-lap, which I purchased 20-odd years ago. It is nicely broken in and cuts like a 2K-3K waterstone now. It is great for knives and wheel gauges. I cannot recall whether it began life as a Fine or Ultra Fine (1200 grit).

    In summary, it takes longer to break in diamond stones than one might imagine.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
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    Great set

    I guess I have the same set of plates purchased from amazon (I purchased "Ultra Sharp Diamond Sharpening Stone Set" three years ago). I really like them.


    1. Consider it will demand some time to "break in". No actual significant effect on the performance but you will feel it cut better. After some use it will come to its "normal" conditions
    2. The base is stainless steel but usually the tools you are sharpening isn´t. It means you can find oxidations points on the plate surface if you do not care to clean up the plates after use. Take time to be sure you are not letting oxidable residues there. Clean up after use. Clean up after use
    3. Water is the best cut fluid if you consider cost x benefit. Avoid oils mainly for the higher grade plate as the size of its lubricant particles can compromise fine grid grain performance
    4. I am surprised as the rough plate rated at 300 can cut even hard steel very efficiently. The main application I reserved that particular plate was to flatten my sharp stones as it could do that with out release grain particles to contaminate the stones but it performed very well to camber grind one Lie Nilsen very hard plane iron


    I think you will enjoy them. For me it replaced most of the tasks I previously had for my sharpening stones.
    Last edited by Osvaldo Cristo; 08-03-2020 at 4:51 PM. Reason: Typo as usual
    All the best.

    Osvaldo.

  8. #8
    I read somewhere of a product called Krud Kutter being used to lubricate the stones during use and clean them after use. Krud Kutter was used instead of water so rust would not develop. Any one tried Krud Kutter as a lubricant?

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    I use Krud Kutter to clean all sorts of things but wouldn’t use it on my diamond stones. Works great on soap scum on the walls and door of the shower stall, though.

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